Hydrolic vs Solid
Pro's: Sounds cool, Larger cam with less driveability issues, and i think the ramp rates are faster but i may be wrong on that one.
Con's: More expensive (depending on how you do it) because you need an adjustable valvetrain and new lifters, harsher on valvetrain parts (should check rockers every other oil change to be safe, but Futral has gotten like 10k miles without having to adjust anything.
Hydraulic-
Pro's: Same kind of cam you have in there so theres less things to replace, Several proven grinds out right now to choose from (B1, T1, TR 224)
Con's: Not as cool as a Solid, some problems when you go REALLY big.
Ryan
You also get great driveabilty (due to valve seat timing; the valve is off the seat for less time which helps build cylinder pressure) when compared to an equvilant hydraulic cam.
The solid lifters don't bleed down at higher rpms like hydraulic lifters do costing hp/tq.
The solid roller cam I am running is 230/230 .612/.612 112 and it drives just great on the street. I was previously using the Lunati/B1 cam (221/221 .558/.558 114) and they drive nearly identical. If I had a 230/230 hydraulic cam, I more than likely wouldn't be able to say that.
There are a few disadvantages of going the solid roller route. You do have to adjust the valve lash roughly every 6k-10k miles. After we installed the heads/cam, I checked mine after 100 miles and they moved quite a bit. However, this is normal after the intial install. I haven't checked them since, but I have roughly 4k miles on it now and the valvetrain is much quieter than it was before. Car seems to be doing fine. <img src="images/icons/smile.gif" border="0"> You will need to purchase new lifters ($300), shaftmount rockers (~$825), camshaft, springs/retainers/pushrods, new valvecovers or spacers, other misc. items, and extra machine work done to the heads. Another disadvantage is that the valvetrain is louder than it would be with an hydraulic setup. This isn't too much of a problem as you really can't hear much over my exhaust. LOL <img src="images/icons/grin.gif" border="0">
If money really isn't an object, the solid roller is the way to go.
Let me know if you have any specific questions.
Jason
[ November 16, 2001: Message edited by: Jason99T/A ]</p>
Jason
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Thanks
Trace
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Futral runs 11.30's i think with a stock shortblock 6-speed.
Ryan
I also don't think shimming is a good idea in general - for valvetrain stability and also for rocker/pushrod angularity.
No question it can work, and may even work without issue in some cases. I just would not feel comfortable recommending it, and want to point out that there are drawbacks.
Chris
<strong>Jason, what did you do with the passenger side valve cover? I am sure you would have to remove the two baffles for rocker clearance , which would allow oil to be pulled back thru the intake thru the poted vaccum. Did you use a vaccum pump or build a low profile baffle or use a special valve cover?
Thanks
Trace</strong><hr></blockquote>
Trace, I am using the SAM racing valvecover spacers and we did have to modify the passenger side valvecover to get the needed clearance for the rocker arms. I'm not using a vacuum pump,etc. I haven't had any problems with oil consumption, smoking, etc.
Jason
The only disadvantage I see with a solid lift setup is valvetrain adjustments. For some, the extra noise might also not be desirable.
The idea of shimming rockers as been around for years and is the practice for street 5.0's,but everybody has their own ideas and opinions.Like people said,Ive seen stock rocker arms break with stock cams\springs.
lets me test ya on this one..
98 z28 with stock displacement engine.
2 speed glide
3000 weight
456 gear
your typical heads intake ect bolt ons.
looking for 6500-6800 trap rpms
what would your cam choice be and why!!!
spring choice?!!
steve frank
BTW, Give me a call tomorrow or email me your number. I have a few questions for you. <img src="images/icons/smile.gif" border="0">



