alright, i think i've made my decision on what to do to the car. After reading through that budget motor build up post, i like the idea of the truck motor build up Terry was talking about. Now what should I start looking for?

6.0 Iron Truck shortblock then use a set of LS1 heads from one of the vendors? or should i got with a long block, and use the truck heads? how can i determine which motor i have, an iron head or aluminum head one? is it the LQ4 and LQ9 designation? then if i go with the aluminum head version, if i want to up the CR, if i mill the heads .030, what size pushrods do i need? who makes some pistons for this motor with a .060 overbore? As for crank and rods, should i just use the stock stuff, and have the rods polished and everything balanced and blueprinted? what rods could i use that are cheap but durable. what about some cam recommendations? with a bigger cam, it's gonna seem less radical in the slightly bigger motor right? but with that same larger cam, i'm gonna have to worry about piston to valve clearance more right? what about lifters as well? what should i use for those? i'm just looking for 400rwhp if possible through an A4. daily driver. although i wouldn't complain about more. <img src="gr_stretch.gif" border="0"> thanks for any help, and i'm sure i'm missing something. like i said, this is a cheap buildup, and i have done motor assembly before, so this will be done by myself. thanks.

Chris

also, will an ls6 intake and the usual flp, slp, mac, or dynatech headers will all fit on the truck heads? <img src="graemlins/camaro.gif" border="0" alt="[Chevrolet]" />

[ December 17, 2001: Message edited by: z28kid98 ]</p>

 

TTT

 

If I were you Chris, I would look at the following issues:

-Stock LS1 pistons are +.006, out of the hole, so what are 6.0 pistons? Need to know what pistons to valve is. If the 6.0 is (for laughs) +.012 it would mean less room AND more compression. Got to find that out. Need to look at what is ideal and safe piston to head clearance.

-I have a .060 over iron block from ARE. Nick from ARE is adamant that you MUST check the block to see if it can take that much overboring. Many can't. I run a Ross piston from ARE.

-Would I run the 6.0 heads? Let's see, you would need to reduce the combustion chamber volume from 70cc's unless you plan to run a supercharger. You would need to see what size valves are in that head stock. Once you go over a certain size valve you need to change the seats, and that costs a couple hundred bux.

New pistons: $500-700
New rods: $500-700

Reccomendations? I'd really partner up with someone who knows what they are doing. Don't wing stuff like piston to head clearance. I'd consider running stock rods but I'd give serious thought to going at least .040 over and doing up a set of forged pistons.

John
4.060 BORE
4.075 STROKE (offset ground)
=4__ci

 

Hey John that 422cid <img src="gr_stretch.gif" border="0">

LS1 pistons are .006 out, thats why you MUST use this formula for selecting pistons. I have no idea what the escalade jobbers equate to.

[quote]First you want to divide the stroke in half, so that you can measure from the centerline of the crankshaft bore.
3.9" stroke /2 = 1.95"
Use the actual rod length 6.125"
Now add these 2 numbers together = 8.075"
Take the results of adding these together and now you subtract the block deck height 9.24" - 8.075" = 1.165"
1.165" of compression height on a piston would give you close to zero deck, meaning the piston would be flat with the cylinder head surface at top dead center, assuming a true block.
Stock LS1 engines have the piston out of the cylinder .006-.007" out of each cylinder, so to duplicate that with compression height just add the .006" to the 1.165" that we came up with earlier.<hr></blockquote>

You would use 3.622 for the stroke of a stock crank. <img src="gr_stretch.gif" border="0">


Ryan

 

so basically, if you put in the 3.622 in, and then go through the math, you'd end up with the compression height needed for the custom set of pistons?

 

yes

 

hey terry, how much you asking for that again? could you email me some specifics on the motor? i might be interested!!

Chris

 

What it cost me, around $3000. Light weight forged flat top pistons (set for NA or N2O), 6" Ibeam rods, .060 over iron block, race rings, new bearings/bolts, balanced, etc.

 

Just buy my already built 375ci short block. <img src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" border="0">

 

Hey terry, you still got that shortblock <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" /> i need it since i blew up my stock one <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" /> funny how i now need to use the info in this post

Chris

 

I think Ryan Karasek bought it but was trying to sell the pistons.

I'd go 4.030, get good rods, and use the stock crank.

6.0 heads need a lot of milling for compression.