Top Fuel

iTrader: (8)

to go along with stage 2 heads, TP4400, 3.73's, LS6 intake, TTS's through cats, Corsa(no cutout), and the other usual bolt-on's?

1.) 222/222 .563/.563 114

2.) 226/226 .560/.560 114

3.) 224/228 .563/.563 114

Also, I'm planning on getting a Jwis chain so how much advance, if any, should I have ground in?

thanks,
Steve

BIGBOS

222/222 .563/.563 114 <img src="gr_grin.gif" border="0">

The 224/228 is the biggest out there for what you are doing...there are even bigger, but thats the biggest thats reccomended.. <img src="gr_stretch.gif" border="0">

Ragtop 99

iTrader: (7)

#2 with S2 heads. Just be prepared to shift at 6600 rpm.

RyanJ

I concur with Ragtop. #2. but id put it on a 108IC. Bring that rpm down a couple hundred while keeping the idle smoooooth.

StreetStalkerZ

iTrader: (1)

Go with the 222/222 .564/.564 114LSA. That set up should peak power around 6500rpms and maintain but drop slightly after that. I would shift that set up around 6400 to 6500 rpms for best results.

Top Fuel

iTrader: (8)

thanks for the replies guys, <img src="gr_stretch.gif" border="0">

So thats 2 for the 222 and 2 for the 226. Any other opinions out there?

later, <img src="graemlins/gr_guns.gif" border="0" alt="[guns]" />
Steve

Tin Indian

I noticed that all the cams you listed were lifts in the .560+" area.

Is there a reason that you feel you need that much lift?

Think about spring life, valve train wear, noise, etc

Is there anything wrong in a 221-224 duration 114 LSA cam with maybe only .527"-.535" lift other than about 5 rwhp on the table?

Ron,
_______________________________________________

[ January 08, 2002: Message edited by: Kimchee and Rice ]</p>

Top Fuel

iTrader: (8)

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Kimchee and Rice:
I noticed that all the cams you listed were lifts in the .560+" area.

Is there a reason that you feel you need that much lift?

Actually, I wouldn't mind a little more lift. But, It is a daily driver and I don't want to put too much stress on the valve train. .560ish seems to be where a lot of daily driver cars go with and I won't have to worry about PtoV clearance.

Think about spring life, valve train wear, noise, etc

I'm getting dual springs, lots of cars running .560, and I don't care about noise. <img src="gr_stretch.gif" border="0">

Is there anything wrong in a 221-224 duration 114 LSA cam with maybe only .527"-.535" lift other than about 5 rwhp on the table?

The problem is that I'm going to need that 5 extra rwhp and then some to reach my goal of 10's N/A on the stock shortblock. <img src="gr_grin.gif" border="0">

later,
Steve


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MitchR

[quote]Originally posted by Kimchee and Rice:
<strong>I noticed that all the cams you listed were lifts in the .560+" area.

Is there a reason that you feel you need that much lift?

Think about spring life, valve train wear, noise, etc

Is there anything wrong in a 221-224 duration 114 LSA cam with maybe only .527"-.535" lift other than about 5 rwhp on the table?

Ron,
_______________________________________________

[ January 08, 2002: Message edited by: Kimchee and Rice ]</strong><hr></blockquote>

Correct me if I'm wrong, but the new Z06 Vette cam has lifts of about .560 (I'm sure someone remembers the exact number) and I doubt GM would use anything that would break the valvetrain in under 100k miles. If he has the proper springs that are installed properly then he should get many miles of use out of a .560 lift cam.

My phhilosphy is that if you do a H/C setup when your car has around 20-30k miles and you get another 70-80k miles from it, then its almost time for a whole new engine, complete rebuild, or a new car anyhow <img src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" border="0">

MitchR

Top Fuel,

You really didn't state your goals. But if it is to have a car that fast that maintains good lower speed driveability and a decent idle then I'd say go for choice #1. I'm assuming that it is a Hammer Cam on a 114 LSA. However by the looks of your converter you may want the max performance possible. With proper tuning I would then go with the #2 option as the best of the 3.

- Mitch

- Mitch

[ January 08, 2002: Message edited by: MitchR ]</p>

Carlitos

[quote]Originally posted by MitchR:
<strong>

Correct me if I'm wrong, but the new Z06 Vette cam has lifts of about .560 (I'm sure someone remembers the exact number) </strong><hr></blockquote>

.550

I would recommend the 224/228 (see sig) mainly because that's what I'm using and that's what I like. Don't know if I would go with it on an A4, though. If you did and you had the programming done for it, I think it would be awesome with that high stall. On my M6 I can feel the cam really start to open up around 2600 rpms. By 4000, I'm flyin' on the ground.

LS1powerN20

i think both #2 and #3 would do well with your set up.

Skelton

# 1 should be the best all around if driveability is a concern and #2 would be great for a tad more power but worse driveability. I agree with +4 built in on the #1 and I would recommend +4 on the #2 and would also advance it 2 degrees with the timing set. You have the needed support equipment to make either work well, its just a matter of some lost driveability for just a little more power.Shift points will need to be around 6400/6500 on #1 and 6600/6700 on #2. #3 would be an excellent high rpm nitrous cam but I wouldn't recommend it N/A. Either #1 or #2 should have you doing this <img src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" /> <img src="graemlins/fluffy.gif" border="0" alt="[Fluffy]" />

Tin Indian

Convinced me....

Ragtop 99

iTrader: (7)

The Z06 valves are lighter and that removes some of the stress on the springs, and I doubt the Z06 cam's ramp rates are as fast the comp extreme ramps too. (On the otherhand, the springs probably aren't as good as a set of double springs either)

I'd be happy with 30,000 miles given the performance.

Top Fuel

iTrader: (8)

Man, you guys are making this decision hard. <img src="gr_grin.gif" border="0">

So shifting at 6600 or 6700, how will the block like that?

Also, I know IRS has a Comp 226 that has an advertised duration of 279. So doesn't that put it in the same streetability category as the B1? or am I getting confused on the relation of .006 specs vs. .050 specs?

later,
Steve

RUF SS

I would go with Raughammer on the 222/222 cam for an Auto. My other choice would be Tunder Racing 224/224 114 on a M6.

Raughammer

[quote]Originally posted by Top Fuel:
<strong>to go along with stage 2 heads, TP4400, 3.73's, LS6 intake, TTS's through cats, Corsa(no cutout), and the other usual bolt-on's?

1.) 222/222 .563/.563 114

2.) 226/226 .560/.560 114

3.) 224/228 .563/.563 114

Also, I'm planning on getting a Jwis chain so how much advance, if any, should I have ground in?

thanks,
Steve</strong><hr></blockquote>

Go with number one but with the specs at .566 on the lift. I have recommended that cam on a 114 to many of the folks who email me for tech. It is a good A4 cam for folks who want just a tad less problems.
Your goal of 10's in the stock short block were achieved using THAT cam. So it IS attainable and do-able.
Cam wise? always choose on the "small" side in camparison shopping. Bigger is not Better always when cam shopping.
Your combo looks solid. (other than the "cat" part)
Have 4 degrees of advance ground in the cam and install the cam straight up. (dot to dot)

222/222 .566/.566 with 4 degrees advance gound in. Extreme lobes.

P.S., I especially liked this quote:
"Correct me if I'm wrong, but the new Z06 Vette cam has lifts of about .560 and I doubt GM would use anything that would break the valvetrain in under 100k miles. If he has the proper springs that are installed properly then he should get many miles of use out of a .560 lift cam."

That was an excellent rebuttal Mitch.

Good luck in your quest for 10's.