Do you have to do that "feel thing" on the pushrods while tightening and adjusting the rocker arms?

Do you recommend me changing my timing chain? If so, whats a good one to go with?

What else do you recommend me changing while Ive got the car tore apart?

On a f-body, do you have to remove the powersteering pump, pulley, resevoir, etc.?

Would you recommend me using Comp 918 springs, titamium retainers, and pushrods...or Manley springs, titanium retainers, and pushrods?

Will anything need to be adjusted during or after the job is complete?

Thanks and any help is much appreciated! By the way, here is a list of things Im going to need for the swap...please list anything that I am missing.

1. coolant
2. timing cover gasket
3. engine oil and filter
4. waterpump gasket
5. valve cover gasket

Does any of the sponsors have a package or set that you will need to do a cam swap? Meaning all that you will need to do it? Thanks again.

 

No on the feel thing. You cant adjust our valvetrain anyway.

Yes on the timing chain. There are a few choices. I went with a JWIS for $90 or so

A ported oil pump is a good thing to change while in there.

No, the power steering stays bolted to the head. No need to touch it.

Dunno on the springs, never used either.

Possible drilling of a hole in the throttle body will need to be done afterwards.

As for parts, your list is bad. You dont need valve cover gaskets, you dont need a timing cover gasket, you need 2 water pump gaskets, you need a front seal, and you need a crank pulley bolt. These parts are all listed in the many cam install writeups out there, I suggest you read through them. A lot of these questions are already answered for you there.

 

YES, you need to change the springs. The factory springs are not really even good for the factory cam. The 918s are supposed to be a really good direct replacement spring. Another option is the Rev duels. They are a duel spring that will fit in the factory seat size. "Regular" duel springs require cutting the seat larger (this is what I did when I did my heads...went all out).

When I was planning my cam swap, I talked to the guys and Thunder Racing a lot and they didn't feel that the titanium retainers were a necessity, more of a "if you have the money, it does not hurt".

I have the comp 7.400" chrome molly pushrod in my car, but any company's should work.

I have never heard of the Manley springs (didn't know Manley made springs for LS1s). <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" /> They could be good or could suck...I can't say.

I used the double roller chain from SDPC. It’s actually the Rollermaster (SLP) chain but for much less than SLP charges. If your going through the trouble of changing the "chain" then go ahead and change the entire timing set (chain AND gears). To replace the chain you have to pull the oil pump anyways so go all out while you’re in there.


FYI, I found that getting the oil pan off was the hardest part of the entire project. You have to pull the motor mount bolts and lift the engine so you can get the bolts out. Also, don't "torque" the two long rear oil pan bolts. They are torque to yield and I broke one off (had to drop the pan back off and extract it from the block). Just tighten them up snug. There are enough other bolts (non torque to yield) to hold the pan tight.

One last thing, if you are not pulling the heads (only doing the cam), don't go too big (stick with what other people have done). Without pulling the heads, you can't clay the engine and thus ensure that you have P-to-V clearance.

If you do pull the heads, put ARP 12 point head studs in. They cost more up front but make it so much easier to work with the heads and you don't ever have to replace them (unlike the torque to yield head bolts).

 

Do you know the correct terminology for the "feel thing?" So if you dont have to do it on LS1s, then I assume you just torque them down? If so, where do I get all the torque numbers for the reinstall? Has anyone used the Manley components and if so, what do you think of them? Oh and why dont you need gaskets for the valve covers? You need them on a LT1, why not an LS1? Another thing...what about the timing chain...I heard that with a double roller, that it causes problems with the ASP underdrive crank pulley. Why would I need a ported oil pump? Does any of the sponsors have a package with everything you need to do a cam swap? Meaning all the little things such as gaskets, bolts, and whatnot? Thanks alot

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by onebadss:
<strong> Do you know the correct terminology for the "feel thing?" So if you dont have to do it on LS1s, then I assume you just torque them down? If so, where do I get all the torque numbers for the reinstall? Has anyone used the Manley components and if so, what do you think of them? Oh and why dont you need gaskets for the valve covers? You need them on a LT1, why not an LS1? Another thing...what about the timing chain...I heard that with a double roller, that it causes problems with the ASP underdrive crank pulley. Why would I need a ported oil pump? Does any of the sponsors have a package with everything you need to do a cam swap? Meaning all the little things such as gaskets, bolts, and whatnot? Thanks alot </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">You just torque the rockers down as long as you've got correct length pushrods (stock length is fine if just doing a cam swap).

All the torque specs are on my webpage in the writeup.

You dont need valve cover gaskets because LS1's have rubber ones that are reusable countless number of times.

The cleaned up oil pump is to prevent the random oil pump death that happens to some stock oil pumps. The theory is the blueprinted/cleaned up ones will not have the issue.

Considering you only need a crank bolt, a front seal, and 2 water pump gaskets you should just go to the dealer, it all costs maybe $15 total. The part #'s are on my website.

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by jmX:
<strong> The part #'s are on my website. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">your website RULES <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

 

1/4 master, thanks <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

onebadSS, try this link and type in stuff you have questions about
https://ls1tech.com/ubb/cgi-bin/ulti...search_forum=1

All this stuff has been answered (and documented) many times, search the archives a bit more and you'll be able to answer your own questions much quicker than waiting for people to respond on here. I have no idea what cam you are even installing so there's no way I could say what power range it'd have or where it should idle, but if I were you i'd just worry about that stuff later, assuming you picked a proven cam.

 

Do you know what that cam is going to be capable of as far as the rpms go? What do I set the rev limiter at and where is it going to make the most power? Whats a good idle speed to set it at? I want it to sound mean, but I want it to have its maximum performance out of that idle speed with no problems. Thanks By the way...I dont have a manual, is there any way that someone can post the order for the rocker arms? Thanks again!