hey guys i am installing my cam next tuesday and i was just wondering how i should break it in. a friend of mine said to baby it and drive it easy for the first 500 miles, then change the oil and then i can get on it alot. but i heard from a bunch of other ppl that they just get on it as soon as the start it up, which is better, any help will be very appreciated. thanks

 

when i first had mine put in, i was already in cam range once i got to the highway

 

if it is a roller cam, you don't really have to break it in. if it is a flat tappet then i would suggest picking up this months car craft. they pretty much nailed it in that issue.

 

well most installers install them then dyno them so... i guess you can just get on them

 

ok well does it say?? lol

 

if you were refering to what the article said, it would take up too much space. they even break down zink levels in the different oils and additives. there is alot to cam breakin on flat tappets. and dont use any of the usuall oils due to lack of zink. deisel oil and certain race oils are your best bet. i learned the hard way on my '65 GTO. i thought Mobile 1, my cam thought Rotella T. now i have just remnants of a usable cam.

 

my friend helping me install it told me to use Rotella T.. so how much does it cost?? and where can i get it?

 

If anything needs breaking in its really the springs....but i didnt even do that, as soon as it fired up i was revving the **** out of it.

 

I went by comps directions, as soon as you fire it up (make sure theres oil press first of course), hold it at 2000 r's for 2 mins, I then shut it off and changed the oil. I stayed below 4K r's for the first 500 miles, changed the oil at the 500 mark and then gave it hell.

 

oh ok, well i appreciate it guys, so it would be ok to start it up & rev it for 30 mins then i can take it easy for the first 500 miles??? does that sound ok?

 

any parts store. around here i get it at Advance, i think it is like $2.50 a qt. and as long as i have raced a worked on my hotrods spring break-in never was an issue. when you break in a cam you are work hardening the surface of the lobes and creating a wear pattern. all parts on your vehicle that see continued(sp) friction have some sort of break-in period. from breaks to gears. if you don't do it right, that part is ruined, period. so far i have wiped out 1 cam, and 2 ring and pinion sets. that **** gets pricey. so don't skip any steps. i will see if i can find the break-in article on line.

 

ok LSXNV i would appreciate if you could find that for me. please let me know.

 

it is too early for it to be on their web site carcraft.com, but the jist from another article...

"New lifters are required when installing a new flat-tappet cam. Be sure to coat the cam lobes and lifters with the supplied cam lubricant, then break in the cam by varying engine speed between 2,000-3,000 rpm for at least 20 minutes. Do not idle the engine."

you have to make sure every thing is done and your engine will run for 20 minutes. use any multigrade oil along with GM's EOS (engine oil supplement) or the additive included with the cam. also prime your engine before firing it. it will help a great deal to remove your inner springs while breaking the cam in if you have dual valve springs. granted this is a PIA but VERY important stuff.

p.s. if you have a roller cam, none of this is nessesary.

 

here is a list of oils with a higher zink level...

Castrol Tection Extra 15w40
Chevron Delo 400 15w40
Mobil Delvac 1300 15W40
Shell Rotella T 15w40
Quaker State Q Race 0w5, 15w50, 17.5w35
Joe Gibbs Racing MicroZol 0w20,10w30

 

ok LSXNV i appreciate all the help, i think imma buy the Rotella T, but how many qts will i need??

 

how ever many quarts your oil pan holds, Rottela is not an additive. use it like regular oil.

 

ok man i appreciate but i got a ? my friend said not to use it for break in but to use a cheap oil for break in..y 2 different views?? he goes to UTI btw just to say lol

 

as stated above, you can use any multigrade oil you wish for break-in. just make sure you have the correct additive in the oil as per cam manufacturers instructions. they usually send the lube and additive with the kit. you can also use GM EOS. if you have any question on the additive, give the cam grinder a call.

 

o ok i gotcha, sry i read it wrong, but i gotcha now, thanks man i appreciate it.

 

no problem dude.