Custom Cam is in...what do you guys think?
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Speedeamon - I like that cam choice. I agree with Ragtop99 all the way on the oil pump upgrade. Make sure you do that.
I disagree with some others on the peak hp. I think you'll peak closer to 6300. I'm running a 226/234 .554/.575 112 that makes great power and peaks at about 6200. I'm of the "ARE big cam school", rightly or wrongly (don't want to beat that horse again).
As far as springs, doubles are the thing these days, and I don't dissagree. But I've never had a single problem with the good ole 941's. Installation is part of that problem.........
And your stock bottom end will be fine with that cam and shift points. My car shifts at 6500 all day long on the stock bottom. If $$ is no object, then reinforcing the bottom is a great idea. But if your budget doesn't allow, don't worry about it.
The idle, as long as you move the rpm's to around 900, will be tamer than some others above make it seem. Only the LS1 guys that know these cars can tell I have big cam.
Go have some fun and kick some "weany cam" butt at the track!!!!!!! <img src="gr_grin.gif" border="0">
I disagree with some others on the peak hp. I think you'll peak closer to 6300. I'm running a 226/234 .554/.575 112 that makes great power and peaks at about 6200. I'm of the "ARE big cam school", rightly or wrongly (don't want to beat that horse again).
As far as springs, doubles are the thing these days, and I don't dissagree. But I've never had a single problem with the good ole 941's. Installation is part of that problem.........
And your stock bottom end will be fine with that cam and shift points. My car shifts at 6500 all day long on the stock bottom. If $$ is no object, then reinforcing the bottom is a great idea. But if your budget doesn't allow, don't worry about it.
The idle, as long as you move the rpm's to around 900, will be tamer than some others above make it seem. Only the LS1 guys that know these cars can tell I have big cam.
Go have some fun and kick some "weany cam" butt at the track!!!!!!! <img src="gr_grin.gif" border="0">
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About these RPM's...I have a stock '98 Z28 and redlines at what...6k? What allows the RPM's to increase safely? Is it the heads? Just trying to learn a bit...
Matt
'98 Z
Matt
'98 Z
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Well, I'd say that the large majority of cars out there have a whole lot left in them. Let's take a few examples other than our LS1's:
Audi's 1.8 turbo. came out with 150 hp. is now running at 180 hp. And there is a 225 hp variant as well.
Nissan's awesome VQ engine. when I had one, it was 190 hp. the same engine was tweaked to 233 hp. and now (with a small stroke) it makes 240 or 260 hp, depending on the car.
Dodge Viper 8 liter. went from 400 to 500 hp with minimal changes.
The list goes on and on. Car manufacturers leave a lot on the performance table with most engines in the interest of reliability, gas mileage, etc. Our LS1's are no exception.
Audi's 1.8 turbo. came out with 150 hp. is now running at 180 hp. And there is a 225 hp variant as well.
Nissan's awesome VQ engine. when I had one, it was 190 hp. the same engine was tweaked to 233 hp. and now (with a small stroke) it makes 240 or 260 hp, depending on the car.
Dodge Viper 8 liter. went from 400 to 500 hp with minimal changes.
The list goes on and on. Car manufacturers leave a lot on the performance table with most engines in the interest of reliability, gas mileage, etc. Our LS1's are no exception.
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With the dual spring combo, which titanium retainers & locks are people using? I wasn't aware there was dual retainers for use with the 8mm valve locks.
Anybody know the part number?
Anybody know the part number?
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I have to agree with OYNXSS about factory building in reliability with potential for more power and rpm, look at how GM keeps upping HP on vette(and secretly on Fbody) using same short block internals. I have to challenge Chris B on his comment about warming up valve springs though. Break in is important for new springs, but heat is what makes springs lose their tension and strength, so the cooler the better. Especially if your using springs that are marginal for application.
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If you have a cold valvespring you pretty much will have cold oil, cold engine, etc.
I wouldn't run an engine in that condition at all. Yes, with extra heat the valvesprings will loose a little tension - but that should be factored in the spring choice. I wouldn't suggest springs that are marginal to begin with.
Instead of crutching a weak spring by running it cold (which from a material stress standpoint I wouldn't do) I would just use a spring that was up to the task when warm.
As for the LS1 stock bottom end turning over 7000 rpm reliably - I wouldn't really count on it. I personally wouldn't shift any higher than 7000 rpm unless you have modified the oiling system to operate reliably at that level.
Weatherguy: anyspring that would be fatigued with this cam in 10,000 miles pretty much ipso facto isn't a good choice. We get more miles out of that with a 650+ lift solid roller (running pacalloy springs though <img src="gr_stretch.gif" border="0"> ). It's just a matter of picking the right springs for the job. I would just say instead of suggestion 10,000 mile change intervals with poor spring that a set of good springs be chosen so you don't have to change them that often. If he really turns 7250 honest rpm I would bet money he will spin a bearing/throw a rod before the valvesprings wear otu - unless he already has that addressed.
Chris Bennight
I wouldn't run an engine in that condition at all. Yes, with extra heat the valvesprings will loose a little tension - but that should be factored in the spring choice. I wouldn't suggest springs that are marginal to begin with.
Instead of crutching a weak spring by running it cold (which from a material stress standpoint I wouldn't do) I would just use a spring that was up to the task when warm.
As for the LS1 stock bottom end turning over 7000 rpm reliably - I wouldn't really count on it. I personally wouldn't shift any higher than 7000 rpm unless you have modified the oiling system to operate reliably at that level.
Weatherguy: anyspring that would be fatigued with this cam in 10,000 miles pretty much ipso facto isn't a good choice. We get more miles out of that with a 650+ lift solid roller (running pacalloy springs though <img src="gr_stretch.gif" border="0"> ). It's just a matter of picking the right springs for the job. I would just say instead of suggestion 10,000 mile change intervals with poor spring that a set of good springs be chosen so you don't have to change them that often. If he really turns 7250 honest rpm I would bet money he will spin a bearing/throw a rod before the valvesprings wear otu - unless he already has that addressed.
Chris Bennight