BIGBOS

Let us know what kind of #'s you get out of it

Linear Velocity

iTrader: (1)

Going with a local shop that does stage II heads, the cam specs are 227/227 .591/.591 lift, 113 LSA. A similiar car with this setup and shortie headers made 422 rwhp SAE corrected, with my Grotts/ORP's I hope to see some good numbers and more importantly good times. You guys think that this cam will behave ok on the street? Thanks. ~Tony

[ February 08, 2002: Message edited by: SpeedDemonZ28 ]</p>

VINCE

iTrader: (1)

Similar to the Pig Cam.. I would ask them what the idle is like..

Ragtop 99

iTrader: (7)

whose cam lobes?

WeatherGuy

That is going to be a very big cam for the street on stock cubes. The idle ain't going to be great, and you might not be picking up any power over something slightly tamer (say a 224/224). There have been posts several times that stock cubed motors just don't seem to gain much past 224 on either intake or exhaust. Of course, you might like a rough idle <img src="gr_grin.gif" border="0">

Make sure you have good springs for that lift, and that you meticulously check your valve to piston clearance. Any mistakes there and you will be sorry . . .

Linear Velocity

iTrader: (1)

Yes I like it lumpy, but I think the 113 LSA will tame the 227 down a bit over a 112. This will be a daily driver and I don't think that it will be intolerable, I know several guys with the MMS 229 cam (.566/.566 112 LSA) with heads on stock cubes and they are making more power over others with a T1 or TR 224 cam. Still deciding on the spings, either Isky springs or Comp 918 with stock retainers, I'm going to stay away from the 941 springs after some of the horror posts I've seen <img src="gr_sad.gif" border="0">

ChrisB

The lobes are the same as the "pig" cam - the lobes actually come out on a cam doctor between 226 and 227. There still may be some slight differences. What intake centerline is it ground on?

I would suggest more than 918 springs and stock retainers. If you give that cam room to breathe it will.

Here is Chris Marsh's dyno with that cam, through a Yank 4400 torque converter!



At a minimum go with some comp R lifters and some good dual springs.

It makes awesome power, and will pull as high as you want to spin it!

Chris

Damian

iTrader: (89)

You are going to have to rev that cam to the sky to make power! If you want to keep your bottom end in good shape for a while, I would recommend something that peaks at ~6500. (224/224)


Josh

WeatherGuy

SpeedDemon -

Good that you like lumpy idles <img src="gr_grin.gif" border="0"> However, look at what Chris and Josh posted - the *big* power with that cam is going to be at sky-high revs for a street setup. Do you really want it sitting that high for a daily driver? And the springs are going to be a major issue for that lift and the RPMs it needs. You will need top-of-the-line springs, may have to replace them every 10,000 miles or so, going to have to be careful with the valve seats on your SII heads . . .

I think it has a lot of potential, but make sure that this is what you really want.

One important thing - get flow numbers on the heads that you are putting on. You first will want to make sure that they satisfy you. I would then pick a cam that will fit the best with your head flow numbers - i.e., what (sane) lift will get you closest to the peak flow numbers, and what (sane) ramp rates can maximize your entire flow profile.

Linear Velocity

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for all the input guys. Weatherguy, yes they did already match the cam to the flow numbers on the heads. About the springs, what do you guys recommend, basically he said he can get any spring that I want. I will be getting MMS custom tuning and setting the redline to 7200 RPMS and the shift light at 6900. Yes I do realize these are high numbers for a mostly street car, it's paid off and I do have a second car so it doesn't have to be my daily driver <img src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" border="0"> . I still want to put a 12 bolt in (and maybe a cage) before I put any serious track time on it, but I do want it to kick *** at the track. The guy whose doing the cam has an LT1 401 Stroker with a solid roller as a daily driver <img src="gr_eek2.gif" border="0"> He said he's never had a problem with streetability with it, so I think (or hope) I'll be able to handle this setup on the street. Thanks again guys.

Carlitos

Can the LS1s bottom end handle that kind of power at 7200 rpms? Might be an issue.

Ragtop 99

iTrader: (7)

[quote]Originally posted by Carlitos:
<strong>Can the LS1s bottom end handle that kind of power at 7200 rpms? Might be an issue.</strong><hr></blockquote>

I agree. That's a lot to ask from a stock bottom end. You should get a ported oil pump if you're going to spin that high.

Hope it works out; its fun to spin the motor up, especially if you have an M6 with 4.10s.

2000 Camaro SS

[quote]Originally posted by WeatherGuy:
<strong>That is going to be a very big cam for the street on stock cubes. The idle ain't going to be great, and you might not be picking up any power over something slightly tamer (say a 224/224). There have been posts several times that stock cubed motors just don't seem to gain much past 224 on either intake or exhaust. Of course, you might like a rough idle <img src="gr_grin.gif" border="0">

Make sure you have good springs for that lift, and that you meticulously check your valve to piston clearance. Any mistakes there and you will be sorry . . .</strong><hr></blockquote>

If all else fails put nitrous on it. <img src="graemlins/fluffy.gif" border="0" alt="[Fluffy]" /> Bring the RPM's and the shift down some.

[ February 08, 2002: Message edited by: 2000 Camaro SS ]</p>

Linear Velocity

iTrader: (1)

I don't know where everyone is getting 7200 rpms from, that dyno graph is not of a car with my cam, I talked with the guy today and he said that the cam will peak at 6800-6900 rpm, and that maybe I would want the rev limiter at 7100-7200 rpms. Rob Raymer is putting 700 rwhp in his turbo running 9's on a stock crank, I think I'll be fine <img src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" border="0">

WeatherGuy

[quote]Originally posted by SpeedDemonZ28:
<strong>I don't know where everyone is getting 7200 rpms from, that dyno graph is not of a car with my cam, I talked with the guy today and he said that the cam will peak at 6800-6900 rpm, and that maybe I would want the rev limiter at 7100-7200 rpms. Rob Raymer is putting 700 rwhp in his turbo running 9's on a stock crank, I think I'll be fine <img src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" border="0"> </strong><hr></blockquote>

I agree, you should have no problem with the stock crank. Those things are surprisingly strong from what I understand and have seen. I'm not as sure about stock bearings and rod bolts - someone else help here please.

That dyno graph is from a car with a *similar* cam (I believe) from what was posted. Yeah, the peak might be at 6800-6900, but you want to be able to spend some time in the peak powerband, which means running past that a bit. As long as you don't have to set a limiter within the max power band, it should work well.

BTW - I am not trying to be hard on you posting here. I, like a lot of other people here, just want to make sure that we all don't end up with setups that we do not like, particularly if it costs $$$$$. If I ask/say some picky things, it is just to make sure that you have thought about it.

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

Through an LS6 intake, I'll say that you will make peak hp at 6600, and tq at 4900.

I think thatt I would pull the oil pump and swap in a new one, deburred and with the spring shimmed. I would also always run the car a 1/2 qt over when beating on it.

Sounds like a fun setup.

Linear Velocity

iTrader: (1)

Thanks again guys for the input. Weatherguy, I totally know where you're coming from and appreciate all your input, it is always a good thing to be picky when it comes to something like these engines <img src="gr_stretch.gif" border="0"> Ok about the oil pump, should I port my stock one or buy a new modified one like PSJ said, how much are these modified pumps. Thanks again.

ChrisB

You will not have to replace the springs every 10,000 miles. If you go with a decent set of double springs and always let them heat up before you romp on it, etc. you can get normal spring life out of them. The cam is not that much more agressive than what many out there are running - they are just short shifting or don't have a valvetrain that lets them use the entire cam - hence it drops of first artificially.

The cam drives around just fine - yes, there is a big of lope but it's nothing abnormal for a decent size camshaft.

I think it's a great camshaft, just pointing out you want a valvetrain, etc. that let's it live up to it's potential.


Chris

WeatherGuy

[quote]Originally posted by ChrisB:
<strong>You will not have to replace the springs every 10,000 miles. If you go with a decent set of double springs and always let them heat up before you romp on it, etc. you can get normal spring life out of them. The cam is not that much more agressive than what many out there are running - they are just short shifting or don't have a valvetrain that lets them use the entire cam - hence it drops of first artificially.

The cam drives around just fine - yes, there is a big of lope but it's nothing abnormal for a decent size camshaft.

I think it's a great camshaft, just pointing out you want a valvetrain, etc. that let's it live up to it's potential.


Chris</strong><hr></blockquote>

Chris - I think the key word I said is "*may* have to replace them . . . " It will depend upon the quality of the springs (I would use doubles), the driving factors you described, etc. That lift is getting pretty close to 0.600, which when revved to 7250+ RPM is getting to be a lot.

IF you have the springs/valvetrain to take it, then that could be a very good setup. But then those of us who like these things are willing to put up with other things such a big top end entails <img src="gr_grin.gif" border="0">

Linear Velocity

iTrader: (1)

Ok guys, going with Comp 987 Dual Springs with Titanium Retainers, Comp R Lifters, and a ported Z06 Oil Pump with the spring shimmed? Do I have everything covered? Thanks again.