What's the right way to Torque down the ARP Head Studs? ft/lbs? Anything else special vs. stock head bolts?

Thx!

 

MelloYellow, all studs go into block hand tight so threads have max. perch contact for strength. Next most manufact. reccomend 75%torque of studs yield strength. I dont know its yield strength but either ARE or ARP can tell you that.BTW if you dont mind pulling motor to remove heads, studs are the only way to go! <img src="gr_grin.gif" border="0">

 

When talking to Nick at ARE he told me in a F-body if you make some minor clearencing, you can get the heads off the car with the motor still in the car. I don't know what exactly you have to do but I will find out sometime soon. I am going with studs also to try and keep the heads on the car with a 300 shot <img src="graemlins/gr_devil.gif" border="0" alt="[devil]" />

 

Flaming TA, you can also remove studs that are interfering with removal, since they are only hand tight.

 

ya, I kinda figured you could do that also. I know it's still not going to be as easy as with just bolts. But you gotta have something there if you wanna run high boost or lots of nitrous.

[ January 27, 2002: Message edited by: FlamingTA ]</p>

 

Another real good reason to use studs is threads in block over time can pull from being aluminum. This is a real problem with Cadillac Northstar engines, and over time may really start to show up with LS1. Just a heads up people <img src="gr_stretch.gif" border="0">

 

Thx Guys. These will be going on shortly. Any other heads up (pun) comments re: install? Will ring ARP tomorrow.

 

are you o-ringing the block for the head studs?

 

I believe my gaskets have something similar to an O-Ring inside them. Looks like the stud specs come printed on the back of the ARP box and inside is a sheet with the PSI Tensile & Size. 190k PSI Tensile and 7/16" studs I believe. TQ Specs are on the back and vary per 30W or Moly lube or something. It's all there.

 

off-topic, but where are you guys buying these ARP studs from?

 

My car has ARP head studs since after 6 head swaps, the threads were getting very tired. MTI torqued them down, so I do not know what the torque should be. But I have made sure that you can still change the heads with the engine in the car. You have to remove the plastic piece under the cowl, and then supposedly, the heads have anough room to slide off.

\chris

 

P/N 234-4316

Jegs

Summit

 

Ya, got my 12pts from Jegs also.

Everyone have good luck removing heads with these studs? Anyone NOT able to remove their heads while the engine is in the car? I don't plan to go back in... <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />
I do worry about valvesprings a bit tho.. Damn 941 paranoia.. LOL!

<small>[ March 21, 2002, 06:54 PM: Message edited by: MelloYellow ]</small>

 

So is it possible with the motor in the car to place on the head, and then screw in the necessary studs with your fingers? I know the bolts inside the head area are in a tight space. I wouldn't want to get these expensive animals and then not be able to place the heads and then the studs on in the block.

<img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" /> <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" />