A good/better foundation???
#1
A good/better foundation???
I have a chance to purchase 2 shortblocks for my new project...
1) a shortblock from a 2000 FRC w/ 55K... ( $600.00) (local)
2) a shortblock from an 03 Z06 with 9K on it.. $1200.00 ( shipped from another state)
What would you do?
It will be a H/C,, bolt on, stalled A4... ( driven daily)
Thanks for your input...
1) a shortblock from a 2000 FRC w/ 55K... ( $600.00) (local)
2) a shortblock from an 03 Z06 with 9K on it.. $1200.00 ( shipped from another state)
What would you do?
It will be a H/C,, bolt on, stalled A4... ( driven daily)
Thanks for your input...
#3
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well, the Z06 will be the LS6 block. will have the vent holes in the block just above the main bosses. this allows air to transfer from one chamber to the next. helps to keep the oil from aeriating in the higher rpms.
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Originally Posted by brokeTA
spend 600 on the shortblock and take the other 600 and put towards rod bolts, main studs, new bearings and rings. You would have a somewhat fresh motor and some good parts also.
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Originally Posted by pist0lpete
Good info but remember to put in main studs you have to have mains line honed so thats more $$$. Should have the crank polished really if you are gonna put in new bearings. Also must have it honed for new rings. Just some costly items to think of if you are on a budget. Also, the advantage of the LS6 block is negligible really some say it will result in slightly lower oil consumption. Others claim the bay windows in the LS6 cause the block to be slightly weaker. Not really worth the extra dollars IMO.
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Originally Posted by brokeTA
Why would you have to line hone for main studs?? Not doubting you, just curious. If its down that far a $30 crank polish and $80 hone job isn't too bad. Rings are about 120 and new bearings are about $150, rod bolts are less than a 100 and main studs are about 180 or so. So if you assemble it yourself you will have about $700 in it on top of paying for it.
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Originally Posted by pist0lpete
To be honest I don't know the exact reasons why you need to line hone for main studs. I just know it is common knowlege that it has to be done on all engines when you go from bolts to studs. I learned this when discussing with my machinist.
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Well truth be told, all of these blocks should most likely be line honed or at least checked when being rebuilt. It was very common with the older blocks to settle and the critical dimensions to change after they had been run (seasoned). I would expect that to be true today as well. Secondly, when you install a fastener with a higher torque value it will cause a slightly different distortion of the housing bore (mainly from the main saddle where it is pulling on the threads, allthough how much is most likely negligible, but should still be checked and to to be perfect, honed.
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Originally Posted by BOWTIE
Well truth be told, all of these blocks should most likely be line honed or at least checked when being rebuilt. It was very common with the older blocks to settle and the critical dimensions to change after they had been run (seasoned). I would expect that to be true today as well. Secondly, when you install a fastener with a higher torque value it will cause a slightly different distortion of the housing bore (mainly from the main saddle where it is pulling on the threads, allthough how much is most likely negligible, but should still be checked and to to be perfect, honed.
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Originally Posted by PewterY2KZ28
Yeah Mike,,, why is that exactly??