Cam install Tools????
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I have recently heard that there are special tools needed to do a cam swap on an LS1...... What are these tools, how much do they cost, and where can I get them???????? I plan a small cam swap this summer hopefully and then a head/cam swap latter. Get back with you guys later!!
Josh S.
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Josh S.
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Nope...no special tools. You need a pulley puller to remove the crank-pulley....I guess you could technically call that a "special tool"...maybe? Other than that, just your basic wrenches/sockets. (That's assuming that you are gonna release your AC into our limited Ozone, rather than have it professionally vacuumed)
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Here is a list of the “Special Tools” that Chevy lists in the maintenance manual.
Kent Moore tools can be bought direct or through Chevy. They’re not cheap.
J42386-A is a flywheel holding tool. This bolts to the block and engages the flywheel. Most people put the car in gear.
J41816 is a three legged gear puller for balancer removal. You can buy these anywhere.
J41558 is a crank sprocket remover. This is a two legged gear puller to get the oil pump drive & lower timing chain gear off of the crank. Many other pullers will work. You only need to remove this sprocket if you are changing the lower timing gear.
J41478 is a crank front seal installer. This tool presses the seal into the front cover. Plan B is a hammer & block of wood.
J41478 is a crank balancer & oil pump sprocket installer. A longer bolt will help start the damper back on. You need a 16mm x 2 x 4.5” to 5” long. The stock bolt is ~4” long. The sprocket can be pressed on the crank with a piece of pipe and a hammer.
J41476 centers the front cover to the block. Most people eye-ball the alignment as the front cover doesn’t have locating dowels like small blocks. If you screw this up, your front seal will leak.
J41480 squares the front cover to the pan rail. You can use a straight edge or go by eye.
J42186 is a ball joint separator used on Vettes which take the steering rack off for a cam change.
Also handy are:
Special tool to disconnect GM fuel lines. Buy at any auto parts.
Refrigerant recharge hose.
Torque angle meter or torque angle wrench. Many people just mark the bolt with a Magic Marker and then twist it to spec.
Hope this helps,
Steve
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[ March 08, 2002: Message edited by: SNW Vette ]</p>
Kent Moore tools can be bought direct or through Chevy. They’re not cheap.
J42386-A is a flywheel holding tool. This bolts to the block and engages the flywheel. Most people put the car in gear.
J41816 is a three legged gear puller for balancer removal. You can buy these anywhere.
J41558 is a crank sprocket remover. This is a two legged gear puller to get the oil pump drive & lower timing chain gear off of the crank. Many other pullers will work. You only need to remove this sprocket if you are changing the lower timing gear.
J41478 is a crank front seal installer. This tool presses the seal into the front cover. Plan B is a hammer & block of wood.
J41478 is a crank balancer & oil pump sprocket installer. A longer bolt will help start the damper back on. You need a 16mm x 2 x 4.5” to 5” long. The stock bolt is ~4” long. The sprocket can be pressed on the crank with a piece of pipe and a hammer.
J41476 centers the front cover to the block. Most people eye-ball the alignment as the front cover doesn’t have locating dowels like small blocks. If you screw this up, your front seal will leak.
J41480 squares the front cover to the pan rail. You can use a straight edge or go by eye.
J42186 is a ball joint separator used on Vettes which take the steering rack off for a cam change.
Also handy are:
Special tool to disconnect GM fuel lines. Buy at any auto parts.
Refrigerant recharge hose.
Torque angle meter or torque angle wrench. Many people just mark the bolt with a Magic Marker and then twist it to spec.
Hope this helps,
Steve
<img src="graemlins/corvette.gif" border="0" alt="[Corvette]" />
[ March 08, 2002: Message edited by: SNW Vette ]</p>
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Ummm...spring compressor if you're changing out your springs.
[EDIT] BTW...I didn't have to mess with the AC. Just moved the coils out of the way. The lines will give just enough to move the coils for removing/installing the cam.
'Los
[ March 08, 2002: Message edited by: Carlitos ]</p>
[EDIT] BTW...I didn't have to mess with the AC. Just moved the coils out of the way. The lines will give just enough to move the coils for removing/installing the cam.
'Los
[ March 08, 2002: Message edited by: Carlitos ]</p>
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I think we have pretty much everything to do all of it besides the front cover alignment tool (my grandparents used to have a mechanic shop) and I also go to a vocational class(vehicle mechanis) which has pretty much everything I need to build a whole car .... when the time comes I'll be prepared now. Thanks Guys!!!
Josh S.
Josh S.
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You could use some of the magnetic pick-up tools to make sure the lifters don't fall. Just a little saftey precaution. Just remember if something doesn't fit, grab the damn hammer!
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Here is how I did my cam change.
http://ls1info.com/article.php?sid=49
Here is a great shot of using the magnets.
http://ls1info.com/article.php?sid=185
Here is the root of all evil and at the bottom
of following link is a great pictorial of
valve train parts..
http://ls1info.com/article.php?sid=157
http://ls1info.com/article.php?sid=49
Here is a great shot of using the magnets.
http://ls1info.com/article.php?sid=185
Here is the root of all evil and at the bottom
of following link is a great pictorial of
valve train parts..
http://ls1info.com/article.php?sid=157