Reverse torquer cam (the other side of the coin)
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Predator, would you recomend the MTI X1 cam for an LS2 GTO, or a bigger reverse split like you mentioned in post # 51, 238/234, 605/.598 109-1 (109LSA and 110 ICL)
Last edited by BlueGoat06; Sep 17, 2007 at 01:27 PM.
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From: BFE
Originally Posted by BlueGoat06
Predator, would you recomend the MTI X1 cam for an LS2 GTO, or a bigger reverse split like you mentioned in post # 51, 238/234, 605/.598 109-1 (109LSA and 110 ICL)
234/232 .600/.595 110-1 LSA would be nice, 13* overlap (nice lope), strong midrange trq, intake biased from TDC for good carry after peak, peak ~6300 rpm, compatible with any fuel grade
Needs good exhaust (LT headers, no cats)
I have been going through cam ideas in my head for a good week now. I'm kind of leaning towards a 236/230 XFI 107 +1
IVC 45*
EVO 44*
OVL 17*
DCR 8.50
This is not a DD by any means.
IVC 45*
EVO 44*
OVL 17*
DCR 8.50
This is not a DD by any means.
Last edited by LIL SS; Sep 18, 2007 at 02:10 AM.
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So from what i read so far if your going to just install bolt-ons and a cam, your better off going with a reverse split because of the area where you will be making your power. And if your going to go with bolt-ons, cam, heads, intake, then your better off with a traditional split cam. Am i in the same ball park as what we are talking about?
-Joel
-Joel
I think it's more intake dictated assuming you have a good exhaust system. Good heads typically have a better Coef than stock heads. But there are other considerations too.. Are you staying NA, or planing an N20?
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From: BFE
Originally Posted by 2000Hawk
So from what i read so far if your going to just install bolt-ons and a cam, your better off going with a reverse split because of the area where you will be making your power. And if your going to go with bolt-ons, cam, heads, intake, then your better off with a traditional split cam. Am i in the same ball park as what we are talking about?
-Joel
-Joel
If you plan on not changing intake, MAF etc... and use average flow heads (mildly ported stock castings, small valves etc..), reverse allows you to manipulate the valve events in a manner to produce monster midrange trq (which is the power range we mostly use on the street).
So instead of shoving in a BIG cam that will need many other mods to achieve it's true potential, you can have a good exhaust and a reverse that will achieve equal performance.
Let me remind everyone that performance are not dyno numbers, but actual on road/track results.
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From: Southern California
Originally Posted by PREDATOR-Z
That would be a bit too much for DD on a 364,
234/232 .600/.595 110-1 LSA would be nice, 13* overlap (nice lope), strong midrange trq, intake biased from TDC for good carry after peak, peak ~6300 rpm, compatible with any fuel grade
Needs good exhaust (LT headers, no cats)
234/232 .600/.595 110-1 LSA would be nice, 13* overlap (nice lope), strong midrange trq, intake biased from TDC for good carry after peak, peak ~6300 rpm, compatible with any fuel grade
Needs good exhaust (LT headers, no cats)
now, looking at the VE's on that cam
IVO: 6
IVC: 48
EVO: 45
EVC: 7
ovl: 13*
what benefits in performance, if any, would i get opening the intake valve 2* earlier, and having a bit more overlap with a 236/234 .602/.598 109 - 1
IVO: 8
IVC: 48
EVO: 45
EVC: 9
ovl: 17*
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From: BFE
Originally Posted by BlueGoat06
great info as always predator,
now, looking at the VE's on that cam
IVO: 6
IVC: 48
EVO: 45
EVC: 7
ovl: 13*
what benefits in performance, if any, would i get opening the intake valve 2* earlier, and having a bit more overlap with a 236/234 .602/.598 109 - 1
IVO: 8
IVC: 48
EVO: 45
EVC: 9
ovl: 17*
now, looking at the VE's on that cam
IVO: 6
IVC: 48
EVO: 45
EVC: 7
ovl: 13*
what benefits in performance, if any, would i get opening the intake valve 2* earlier, and having a bit more overlap with a 236/234 .602/.598 109 - 1
IVO: 8
IVC: 48
EVO: 45
EVC: 9
ovl: 17*
Not to mention it is gonna be a bit harder to tune, might not fit on intake side. If you want to bring in more intake, use a XFI on intake lobe (like I did with my 224/222) and the added lift will act like a crutch and let more charge in.
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Originally Posted by PREDATOR-Z
Yeah basicaly,
If you plan on not changing intake, MAF etc... and use average flow heads (mildly ported stock castings, small valves etc..), reverse allows you to manipulate the valve events in a manner to produce monster midrange trq (which is the power range we mostly use on the street).
So instead of shoving in a BIG cam that will need many other mods to achieve it's true potential, you can have a good exhaust and a reverse that will achieve equal performance.
Let me remind everyone that performance are not dyno numbers, but actual on road/track results.
If you plan on not changing intake, MAF etc... and use average flow heads (mildly ported stock castings, small valves etc..), reverse allows you to manipulate the valve events in a manner to produce monster midrange trq (which is the power range we mostly use on the street).
So instead of shoving in a BIG cam that will need many other mods to achieve it's true potential, you can have a good exhaust and a reverse that will achieve equal performance.
Let me remind everyone that performance are not dyno numbers, but actual on road/track results.
How about you send me one of those "idea" cams, and I'll purchase some patriot heads and see where the power ends up.
I already have a base dyno, so we could really get a good idea of what it's all about. Anywho, nice thoughts.. 
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From: BFE
Originally Posted by fueledpassion
How about you send me one of those "idea" cams, and I'll purchase some patriot heads and see where the power ends up. I already have a base dyno, so we could really get a good idea of what it's all about. Anywho, nice thoughts..
I already have a base dyno, so we could really get a good idea of what it's all about. Anywho, nice thoughts.. There used to be an old member here that would back me up on that (53pony) but many poeple though then he had a screw loose (just for thinking outside the box, like not mainstream).
Hey Pred.
I've been debating between the Tr230 and the MTI X1, from what I've read in the thread the Tr230 is better. Will the Tr230 still perform better even with a high stall like a 3600? (shifts above 4000 though)
Also I will be running cats no-matter what to pass inspection, is it worth using a reverse grind even though I'm running cats?
I've been debating between the Tr230 and the MTI X1, from what I've read in the thread the Tr230 is better. Will the Tr230 still perform better even with a high stall like a 3600? (shifts above 4000 though)
Also I will be running cats no-matter what to pass inspection, is it worth using a reverse grind even though I'm running cats?
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From: BFE
Originally Posted by BlueSLPCamaro
Hey Pred.
I've been debating between the Tr230 and the MTI X1, from what I've read in the thread the Tr230 is better. Will the Tr230 still perform better even with a high stall like a 3600? (shifts above 4000 though)
Also I will be running cats no-matter what to pass inspection, is it worth using a reverse grind even though I'm running cats?
I've been debating between the Tr230 and the MTI X1, from what I've read in the thread the Tr230 is better. Will the Tr230 still perform better even with a high stall like a 3600? (shifts above 4000 though)
Also I will be running cats no-matter what to pass inspection, is it worth using a reverse grind even though I'm running cats?
What 3600 stall, VIG?, yes it will work with that kinda stall, 3500>4000 would be my choice, 2.2>2.5 str
I've thought about gutting my cats 
Won't the inspector notice that my car smells like gas!?
I have Yanks SS3600, browsing for cams now and hoping to have everything done this spring (its a DD). I know these reverse grind cams are good for under the curve power. I just wanted to make sure a 3600 would work great with these cams. And if not I would look for one that will work better with my stall
Won't the inspector notice that my car smells like gas!?I have Yanks SS3600, browsing for cams now and hoping to have everything done this spring (its a DD). I know these reverse grind cams are good for under the curve power. I just wanted to make sure a 3600 would work great with these cams. And if not I would look for one that will work better with my stall
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So what is it that causes the reverse split cams to take a back seat to a traditional split when aftermarket heads are involved? Is it that when you through in heads, the traditional split will be able to take advantage of more flow?
-Joel
-Joel
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This is very interesting to say the least though. I'd like to be one of those bone heads that maxed out a reverse-split design.
I'm assuming that 205cc heads would be better than 215cc or 225cc? Seriously though, a 402 w/ some mild heads and a reverse-split sound so good right now. I can imagine the loads of fun I'd have in the twisties.
More info please...
I'm assuming that 205cc heads would be better than 215cc or 225cc? Seriously though, a 402 w/ some mild heads and a reverse-split sound so good right now. I can imagine the loads of fun I'd have in the twisties.
More info please...
One thing to look at for drag racing is the work over time. Example being:
I made a pull to 105mph in my truck that I logged. Here is the time spent in each RPM range:
4k and bellow: 2.3 seconds (20%)
4k to 5,500: 5.1 seconds (44%)
5,500 to 7k: 4.2 seconds (36%)
--------------------------
Total time 11.6
Now this was not a full 1/4 but I was still only at 5,200rpm in third when I let out. By my estimation, I'd probably be at about 110mph at 5,500 which I'm guessing is about where this truck would trap the way it sits.
So if you look at work over time, based on my final gearing, I would want a cam that really works that 4k to 5,500 rpm range but still holds strong to 7k.
I made a pull to 105mph in my truck that I logged. Here is the time spent in each RPM range:
4k and bellow: 2.3 seconds (20%)
4k to 5,500: 5.1 seconds (44%)
5,500 to 7k: 4.2 seconds (36%)
--------------------------
Total time 11.6
Now this was not a full 1/4 but I was still only at 5,200rpm in third when I let out. By my estimation, I'd probably be at about 110mph at 5,500 which I'm guessing is about where this truck would trap the way it sits.
So if you look at work over time, based on my final gearing, I would want a cam that really works that 4k to 5,500 rpm range but still holds strong to 7k.