BlueGoat06

Predator, would you recomend the MTI X1 cam for an LS2 GTO, or a bigger reverse split like you mentioned in post # 51, 238/234, 605/.598 109-1 (109LSA and 110 ICL)

SSkillz

iTrader: (22)

Any thought on the F1 cam 591/569 112+2 ??

PREDATOR-Z

That would be a bit too much for DD on a 364,

234/232 .600/.595 110-1 LSA would be nice, 13* overlap (nice lope), strong midrange trq, intake biased from TDC for good carry after peak, peak ~6300 rpm, compatible with any fuel grade

Needs good exhaust (LT headers, no cats)

LIL SS

iTrader: (9)

I have been going through cam ideas in my head for a good week now. I'm kind of leaning towards a 236/230 XFI 107 +1

IVC 45*
EVO 44*
OVL 17*
DCR 8.50

This is not a DD by any means.

2000Hawk

iTrader: (5)

So from what i read so far if your going to just install bolt-ons and a cam, your better off going with a reverse split because of the area where you will be making your power. And if your going to go with bolt-ons, cam, heads, intake, then your better off with a traditional split cam. Am i in the same ball park as what we are talking about?
-Joel

Websy21

iTrader: (34)

I got to give it to ya Predator, this is one of the best cam threads ever. Alot of info and it keeps on getting dug up. I love it! Keep it coming guys

LIL SS

iTrader: (9)

I think it's more intake dictated assuming you have a good exhaust system. Good heads typically have a better Coef than stock heads. But there are other considerations too.. Are you staying NA, or planing an N20?

PREDATOR-Z

Yeah basicaly,

If you plan on not changing intake, MAF etc... and use average flow heads (mildly ported stock castings, small valves etc..), reverse allows you to manipulate the valve events in a manner to produce monster midrange trq (which is the power range we mostly use on the street).

So instead of shoving in a BIG cam that will need many other mods to achieve it's true potential, you can have a good exhaust and a reverse that will achieve equal performance.

Let me remind everyone that performance are not dyno numbers, but actual on road/track results.

BlueGoat06

great info as always predator,

now, looking at the VE's on that cam

IVO: 6
IVC: 48
EVO: 45
EVC: 7
ovl: 13*

what benefits in performance, if any, would i get opening the intake valve 2* earlier, and having a bit more overlap with a 236/234 .602/.598 109 - 1

IVO: 8
IVC: 48
EVO: 45
EVC: 9
ovl: 17*

PREDATOR-Z

Because that 2*earlier translates into 2 things, 2* later EVC and 4* more overlap which is gonna make this puppy have too much bleeding to actualy benefit from the extra intake on a stock valve.
Not to mention it is gonna be a bit harder to tune, might not fit on intake side. If you want to bring in more intake, use a XFI on intake lobe (like I did with my 224/222) and the added lift will act like a crutch and let more charge in.

fueledpassion

How about you send me one of those "idea" cams, and I'll purchase some patriot heads and see where the power ends up. I already have a base dyno, so we could really get a good idea of what it's all about. Anywho, nice thoughts..

PREDATOR-Z

Some of my reverse grinds are floating around, I have one, a couple of others have asked me to keep the matter hush-hush (for competition sake). It does work.
There used to be an old member here that would back me up on that (53pony) but many poeple though then he had a screw loose (just for thinking outside the box, like not mainstream).

BlueSLPCamaro

iTrader: (12)

Hey Pred.
I've been debating between the Tr230 and the MTI X1, from what I've read in the thread the Tr230 is better. Will the Tr230 still perform better even with a high stall like a 3600? (shifts above 4000 though)
Also I will be running cats no-matter what to pass inspection, is it worth using a reverse grind even though I'm running cats?

PREDATOR-Z

Cats is easy, if visual inspection>>>gut them
What 3600 stall, VIG?, yes it will work with that kinda stall, 3500>4000 would be my choice, 2.2>2.5 str

BlueSLPCamaro

iTrader: (12)

I've thought about gutting my cats Won't the inspector notice that my car smells like gas!?

I have Yanks SS3600, browsing for cams now and hoping to have everything done this spring (its a DD). I know these reverse grind cams are good for under the curve power. I just wanted to make sure a 3600 would work great with these cams. And if not I would look for one that will work better with my stall

LIL SS

iTrader: (9)

Sean did get a lot of flack for thinking a little different.

2000Hawk

iTrader: (5)

So what is it that causes the reverse split cams to take a back seat to a traditional split when aftermarket heads are involved? Is it that when you through in heads, the traditional split will be able to take advantage of more flow?
-Joel

LIL SS

iTrader: (9)

With out the intake restriction, more or less yes.

fueledpassion

This is very interesting to say the least though. I'd like to be one of those bone heads that maxed out a reverse-split design.

I'm assuming that 205cc heads would be better than 215cc or 225cc? Seriously though, a 402 w/ some mild heads and a reverse-split sound so good right now. I can imagine the loads of fun I'd have in the twisties.

More info please...

LIL SS

iTrader: (9)

One thing to look at for drag racing is the work over time. Example being:

I made a pull to 105mph in my truck that I logged. Here is the time spent in each RPM range:

4k and bellow: 2.3 seconds (20%)
4k to 5,500: 5.1 seconds (44%)
5,500 to 7k: 4.2 seconds (36%)
--------------------------
Total time 11.6

Now this was not a full 1/4 but I was still only at 5,200rpm in third when I let out. By my estimation, I'd probably be at about 110mph at 5,500 which I'm guessing is about where this truck would trap the way it sits.

So if you look at work over time, based on my final gearing, I would want a cam that really works that 4k to 5,500 rpm range but still holds strong to 7k.