I've gone through so many variations of what I want done to my engine...I've finally bought the parts.

Things that really affected my decision:
1) Lunati rods are decently priced but are backordered forever it seems <img border="0" title="" alt="[Sad]" src="gr_sad.gif" />
2) Forged pistons would be nice but I really can't justify it right now (might do bigger motor next year)
3) There are some aspects of the short block which scare the **** out of me everytime I race so I will address those only <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />
- Rod bolts....they gotta go
- Rod bearings....they been beat to hell most likely <img border="0" title="" alt="[Roll Eyes]" src="images/icons/rolleyes.gif" />
- Timing chain...its had a hard life <img border="0" title="" alt="[Razz]" src="gr_tounge.gif" />
- Oil pump...never had a problem...but a ported one couldn't hurt <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

So I've ordered or am ordering the following:
1) Total Seal TS1 rings (2 week special order...ordered)
2) APR 234-6301 Rod bolts (2 week special order...ordered)
3) Clevite 77 SBC Large Journal Rod bearings (ordered)
4) SLP double roller chain (next week)
5) ported oil pump (next week)

I'm still unsure what to do with the main bearings as I am NOT going to a machine shop...this is gonna be a hand glaze broken engine with new bearings only. I've heard things that the engine really should be line honed if new mains are to be used so I may just reuse my current mains <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" />

5.3L GTP S2 heads milled .040 will be on its way to craig for his magic really soon (2 weeks or so)...this should net ~12.0:1

I have the original MTI T2 cam on the way to me from Nineball 232/232 .57x/.57x 112

while in the motor I'll most likely polish the rods to minimize stress risers.

Not really sure what to expect, but if the motor goes then I'll get a good bottom end...but until then...we shall see what happens. Only expecting ~7000 rpm max with this setup. Best part...longest lead item is GTP heads...no waiting months and months and months for short block work <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

<small>[ May 24, 2002, 10:51 AM: Message edited by: Fireball ]</small>

 

Be sure to check your stock pistons for ringland damage/fatigue. Might want to pick up a set of stock pistons from valvegod <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />
Cheers,
Chris

ps- If you run less than a 8Krpm rev limit you are a puss <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

Cheers,
Chris

 

Where and how much for the rod bolts and timing chain? I'd like those pieces too. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Chris ARE 360:
<strong>Might want to pick up a set of stock pistons from valvegod <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />
</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I've been really thinking about that. I could also get rods too so I would have less down time while polishing them...hmmmm

 

Sounds like a plan. Not sure why you would need to align bore to change mains. I'm aware that when you change from bolts to studs it's necessary because of the difference in clamping force....

 

FYI, All LS1 blocks I've seen machined so far have needed align honing.

I'm not sure its totally necessary since you will be re-using the stock crank anyway, but if you go to invest in new parts, it is cheap insurance.

Also, are you going to be ok on P/V clearance? with 5.3 heads milled that much and 232* of duration, I think you will have a problem. You might want to buy an Isky piston notching tool (works great on stock pistons)

Good Luck on your buildup! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />
Shane

 

psst...

Wiseco

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by XtraCajunSS:
<strong>FYI, All LS1 blocks I've seen machined so far have needed align honing.

I'm not sure its totally necessary since you will be re-using the stock crank anyway, but if you go to invest in new parts, it is cheap insurance.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Exactly...New parts then I'd do it but I'm not investing mad money in the bottom end...cause my luck would dictate that it would fly apart anyways <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" /> I'd rather grenade a $600 bottom end instead of a $6000 bottom end <img border="0" title="" alt="[Razz]" src="gr_tounge.gif" />

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif"><strong>Also, are you going to be ok on P/V clearance? with 5.3 heads milled that much and 232* of duration, I think you will have a problem. You might want to buy an Isky piston notching tool (works great on stock pistons)
</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I may do that anyway...I'll have my stock LS1 heads just sitting around which will make excellent guides for the notching tool <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />
I'll just buy the tool and clay the heads.

 

Fireball, great write-up. If you don't mind me asking, what do you have in the parts ($ wise) for this build up?

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by NastyC5:
<strong>Fireball, thanks for the estimates. BTW, why didn't you go with the Katech Rod bolts, I thought they were only $100 <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" /> </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">cause I have never dealt with katech...it was just easier to give summit a call I guess <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

 

Good enough for me <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" /> . Too bad I didn't get to you earlier could have saved you a few bucks <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

BTW, are you building this all yourself? Sweet idea. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by NastyC5:
<strong>
BTW, are you building this all yourself? Sweet idea. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" /> </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Yup...my extent of machine work will be using a craftsman glaze breaker in the cylinders and a thourogh wash down <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" /> I plan on gapping rings and whatnot as well myself.

The topend is where the power is at...thats where my $$$ is going...the bottom end is just along for the ride...if it goes...it goes <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

 

Are you just using the service manuals to assemble it all? What special tools do you need? I'd love to buy a block and build up the bottom end <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

 

torque wrench, feelier gages, piston ring compressor, glaze breaker to name the major tools.

I may even platigage it <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

 

to date:

I got the rodbearings, rings and ARP rod bolts for 370.33 (including shipping)

I got a set of core 5.3L heads from valvegod for 275 + shipping.

Its looking like ~150 + shipping for a double chain from SLP

used cam

May go for pistons/rods from valvegod for 275

I'm sure there will be more that comes up and I'll put together a final figure once its all buttoned up and in the car

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Terry Burger:
<strong>Where and how much for the rod bolts and timing chain? I'd like those pieces too. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" /> </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">rod bolts: Summit Racing (I got the very good ones for 128.69). They also have the "good" ones for 79 or so

Chain: SLP performance parts <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

 

Cool they bolt in to the stock rods? I'm thinking of swapping the rod bolts with the engine in the car, just to be safe.

 

well I'll let you know in a few weeks when they come in...but all indication is that they are plug and play for stock LS1 rods

 

Good luck with your rebuild. I just wish I had a better idea on what I was going to spend. If I would of known I would of put a stock short block and sold the car for a newer one.

Albert

 

Fireball, thanks for the estimates. BTW, why didn't you go with the Katech Rod bolts, I thought they were only $100 <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" />