CHRISPY

If the engine turns, has spark and has fuel shooting out the injectors the ONLY possible reason it wouldnt fire would be the spark plugs. Change the plugs.

Have you pulled the fuel rail up (leaving the injectors plugged in and cranked the car to see if fuel is coming out? (You will need a rag of course <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

Chris
If it is trying to start (ie: catching and sputtering, then dying) you have another problem. Likely a cam/valve issue....

<small>[ June 17, 2002, 10:21 AM: Message edited by: Chris ARE 360 ]</small>

Terry Burger

iTrader: (4)

$50 says you broke a ground behind the cyl head.

Ryoga

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by SS00Blue:
<strong> </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Ryoga:
<strong>I gave it a shot, and sure enough it still sparks. So that confirms we have fire right?</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Ok. The next thing I would do is put the engine at TDC by putting your finger across the #1 cylinder spark plug hole (after taking out the plug, of course) then pull the valve cover and be SURE the intake and exhaust rockers are
PS-
To 98BlackSS: Sorry if I wasted your bandwidth. I did not notice in THIS thread that he checked spark. Thanks to Ryoga for indulging my stupidity. Hope this makes up for your having to correct me.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Alright, this might take a few minutes-keep the ideas coming while I'm out trying this.

No thanks necessary, the way I see it is that you guys are doing me a huge favor giving me the time that you all are. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

Liquidnutz

Might sound silly but have ya tried to reset the pcm. Just a hunch but on my old Z that SOB would die and have similar problems and would not start back up until I disconnected all wires leading into pcm and waited a minute then reconnected. Worth a try.

Ryoga

[QUOTE]<strong>Originally posted by SS00Blue:
Ok. The next thing I would do is put the engine at TDC by putting your finger across the #1 cylinder spark plug hole (after taking out the plug, of course) then pull the valve cover and be SURE the intake and exhaust rockers are completely up and not moving (indicating the valves are closed). If the intake or exhaust rockers are moving AT ALL when the cylinder is coming to TDC, then you've got the cam phased wrong.

Just checking the possibility that you may not have had #1 TDC when you did the swap.

SC
</strong>[QUOTE]

I turned the crank clockwise and held a scredriver in the #1 piston. When the piston reached the top, the first sprint (on the left) was compressed and the second was extended. When the piston was back down again then both springs seemed to be extended/normal.

So is that normal, or bad?

<small>[ June 17, 2002, 11:24 AM: Message edited by: Ryoga ]</small>

98blackSS

On which stroke?

black00WS6

you sure the piston was all the way up top? both valves should be closed. (i think)

Jay 95WS6

looks like you are out of time (cam) so bring the piston back on #1 up and re time the cam/crank

jay

Ryoga

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by 98blackSS:
<strong>On which stroke?</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Which stroke? Hehe, err, not sure... How do you tell? I just cranked it til it came up to the top and then started back down again.

98blackSS

Visceral, how could that be? Is the firing fed off of the cam or crank postion sensor? Seems that would be a sensor related function and not a cam to crank alignment. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" />

Ryoga

Okay... Here it is... I made 2 full clockwise rotations of the Crankshaft and monitored the positions of the piston/rockers. It went something like this:

Starting out with the piston at the top on 1st turn:
Both Valves were closed

1/2 rotation of the crank piston at the botton on 1st turn:
Left valve was closed, second valve open

Full rotation of the crank the piston at the top on 2st turn:
Both Valves were closed (shorter period of time before moving than the first one)

1 1/2 rotation of the crank piston at the botton on 1st turn:
Left valve was open, second valve closed

Someone translate that for us to know if its right or wrong?

SS00Blue

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Ryoga:
<strong>Okay... Here it is... I made 2 full clockwise rotations of the Crankshaft and monitored the positions of the piston/rockers. It went something like this:

Starting out with the piston at the top on 1st turn:
Both Valves were closed

1/2 rotation of the crank piston at the botton on 1st turn:
Left valve was closed, second valve open

Full rotation of the crank the piston at the top on 2st turn:
Both Valves were closed (shorter period of time before moving than the first one)

1 1/2 rotation of the crank piston at the botton on 1st turn:
Left valve was open, second valve closed

Someone translate that for us to know if its right or wrong?</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">It's not clear to me. The 2nd turn sounded like the intake stroke as piston traveled down the bore. You're best suited if you turn the crank (I know, indulge me once more) with your finger blocking the spark plug hole. The air should try to push your finger off the hole. Actually it will, because you'll be fighting ~150PSI. This is the piston on the way UP the bore to TDC.

That will give you TDC for sure. If neither stroke gives compression, then you're 180* out.

OK?

SoRry to put you through this, I know it's a pain turning the crank with a full valvetrain.

SC

Ryoga

okay.... We made 8 full rotations of the crankshaft and none of those rotations had any air rushing out...

SS00Blue

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Ryoga:
<strong>okay.... We made 8 full rotations of the crankshaft and none of those rotations had any air rushing out...</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">BINGO! Your valves are opening at incorrect times with respect to the crankshaft position. When you block the spark plug hole, the air takes an alternate route though the valves, due to the fact that the valves are open during what SHOULD be the compression stroke.

Reinstall your cam being sure that you, have the crank at TDC.

SC

PS - Sorry you had to go through this.

<small>[ June 17, 2002, 01:45 PM: Message edited by: SS00Blue ]</small>

Ryoga

Alrighty then, I'll start it up... I should be able to update everyone in an hour as to what we see... Thanks!

Dave Carney

Man I would think that when you tried to start it the motor was spinning way fast! No compression, would have sounded totally different than a normal startup.

<small>[ June 17, 2002, 02:39 PM: Message edited by: Dave Carney ]</small>

98blackSS

Got me confused now.. Sounded like it was ok by his description earlier. Although the no compression thing makes sense too.

9silverbird8

iTrader: (19)

Sounds to me like you just need to degree the cam when you re-install it. Just because the dots line up doesnt mean that the timing is completely accurate. My .02

98blackSS

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by 9silverbird8:
<strong>Sounds to me like you just need to degree the cam when you re-install it. Just because the dots line up doesnt mean that the timing is completely accurate. My .02</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Yes, but my understanding is that even if it was a tooth off, it would still run - although barely.

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

If you were off a tooth, I recall that someone said we'd be off by like 23 degrees of timing, and stuff would probabably also make contact.

-So the rockers are moving, when you crank it, like if you look down the oil fill tube on the passenger side valve cover? Good.
-What length pushrods are you running? Do you also have ported heads?
-You didn't somehow mess up a ground wire?
-You didn't plug in something wrong in the harness?
-Didn't blow a fuse like fuel pump or something?