horist

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by rom3:
<strong>Somebody jump all over me if I'm wrong here, but...

If you can locate a longer bolt of the same size, I don't think it has to be grade 8 or anything since all you want to do with the longer bolt is get the pulley started on it's way back down the crank snout so you can get the original bolt in there (take the new longer bolt out first) with enough thread to push it the rest of the way down. The original bolt is not protruding far enough into the crank to get a good amount of threads to grip. Then on to the torque sequence - old bolt to such and such, then new bolt to such and such (like my technical torque sequence? <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" /> ) Somebody have the real procedure?

Go team, go!!!</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I believe it's old bolt to 250 ft/lbs then new bolt to 33 ft/lbs

Ryoga

So where do I find bolts like that?

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

I recall a few years ago someone buying a longer bolt at a hardware store.

JC

I know a guy that just uses a longer bolt with washers.

GeorgeC

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Pro Stock John:
<strong>I recall a few years ago someone buying a longer bolt at a hardware store.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">John, you possess such a vast amount of knowledge... <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

98blackSS

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by horist:
<strong> </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by rom3:
<strong>Somebody jump all over me if I'm wrong here, but...

If you can locate a longer bolt of the same size, I don't think it has to be grade 8 or anything since all you want to do with the longer bolt is get the pulley started on it's way back down the crank snout so you can get the original bolt in there (take the new longer bolt out first) with enough thread to push it the rest of the way down. The original bolt is not protruding far enough into the crank to get a good amount of threads to grip. Then on to the torque sequence - old bolt to such and such, then new bolt to such and such (like my technical torque sequence? <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" /> ) Somebody have the real procedure?

Go team, go!!!</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I believe it's old bolt to 250 ft/lbs then new bolt to 33 ft/lbs</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I thought it was old bolt to 240, new bolt to 33 (or close to that) and then another 140* ?

Ryoga

Well, here is the game plan then... Sound good to you all?

A buddy of mine works at a dealership and has gotten his hand on the pulley install tool. This is apparantly a long threaded road that goes on there and has a nut that pulls the pulley on. I plan to use this to snug the pulley back up and then use the bolt to tighten it on as prescribed to 240ft/lb. There shouldd only be 4 threads at most that are boogered up so I'm hoping it'll be fine. What I really need to know now for sure is 1) does this sound like a sane idea, and 2) does this pully have to be installed a certain way or slide on any way (there are no 'keys' right)?

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

Pulley is not keyed.

Sounds like a good plan.

Scalpel

iTrader: (4)

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I thought it was old bolt to 240, new bolt to 33 (or close to that) and then another 140* ?[/QB]</font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">It's old bolt to 240 ft-lb, new bolt to 37 ft-lb and then an additional 140*.

JennZ28

i have seen it done several ways.

i worked on a car recently that some one drilled and tapped the end of the crank due to this reason.

they ended up using a 1 1/8 inch grade eight bolt. seemed to work ok as it stayed together.

now, you do know that most towns ect have business's that deal with nothing but bolts.
find one that does metric bolts and get what you need.

also, if you cant find a metric bolt, they might have m,etric "all thread". get a peice of it cut along with the correct nut. weld the nut on one end of the all thread and walla...instant bolt.

if your over your head, and not comfertable, get some one else to do it.

glad to see that yu worked out what was wrong with it and hope its up and running soon.

steve frank

Ryoga

Got the bolt to work out and the car is back together. This time with the two dots in the right place-without a doubt (didn't want to have to do it again).

So now, verdict is... It won't crank! Ugh! It's almost the same as before. The car turns over and sounds heathy, it just doesn't fire up. If I pull the plugs, they have mist if gas on them. If I dry it off, put it in, turn it over and pull it back out-its got gas on it again.

Now if I try the 'floor it while I crank it' to alleviate the flooded condition, it backfires lightly and smokes out the exhaust and intake.

I've got over all the connections (again for the billionth time) as well as the sensors and what not... What's wrong now!?!? I can't win... <img border="0" title="" alt="[Sad]" src="gr_sad.gif" />

GeorgeC

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Ryoga:
<strong>Well, here is the game plan then... Sound good to you all?

A buddy of mine works at a dealership and has gotten his hand on the pulley install tool. This is apparantly a long threaded road that goes on there and has a nut that pulls the pulley on. I plan to use this to snug the pulley back up and then use the bolt to tighten it on as prescribed to 240ft/lb. There shouldd only be 4 threads at most that are boogered up so I'm hoping it'll be fine. What I really need to know now for sure is 1) does this sound like a sane idea, and 2) does this pully have to be installed a certain way or slide on any way (there are no 'keys' right)?</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">That sounds like a good plan. The advice you're getting from everyone on the threaded rod, etc, is basically just the "poor man's" version of the installation tool. Either would work the same. There is no keyway or anything on the pulley/balancer.

Sounds like you have it under control.

Bob2of3

iTrader: (11)

Do you or any one around have a-tap? or another scan tool? Try to see if any codes are popping up to give you something of a direction now

Keep at it you have to be getting close

LAter <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

Ryoga

My atap was loaned out, but will be back tomorrow. What items should I monitor as it turns over?

XLR8NSS

iTrader: (4)

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Ryoga:
<strong>My atap was loaned out, but will be back tomorrow. What items should I monitor as it turns over?</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I would just check and see if there are any codes set in the computer first. If there are they may lead you to the problem. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

Sorry to hear about your problems with the cam install. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Sad]" src="gr_sad.gif" />

<small>[ June 18, 2002, 09:01 PM: Message edited by: XLR8NSS ]</small>

Plum Crazy Rob

iTrader: (3)

Now, its time for the compression test to see if any valves got whacked while the cam was misinstalled.... <img border="0" alt="[devil]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_devil.gif" /> <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />

Anything can be fixed in time...keep working at it
<img border="0" alt="[chug]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_chug.gif" />

black00WS6

do you guys think it might be fouled plugs now? Since he's been trying to crank it over and over with it shooting gas in there the whole time? He told me he didnt hear any valve noise, which might indicate bent valves. I'm thinking (praying) that it might be fouled plugs. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" /> <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" /> <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" />

MelloYellow

You should have some bent valves, but I'd expect it'd crank over at least.

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

I know from personal experience that the car will run with only compression in 4 cylinders.

Also had a buddy with severely bent valves, from a huge overrev, car was still drivable.

All you changed was the cam? Nothing else?

Sounds like it's not firing properly.

Can you give it gas, like 1/2 pedal and get it started?

H82BBad

3 things are need to have an engine start
1 is fuel you say you have it
2 is spark you have that
3 is compression
I think either you dont have compression dus to the fact that the dots are not line up right or improper pushrod length holding the valves open.