Stroker Crank Question(s) about different Brands.,....
Is there a "real" difference in quality here? I mean why not buy a no name crank for 250.00 vs a Lunati crank for 2,500.00 <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" />
Have a look @ these on eBay and tell me what you guys think about these other brands..
Link to all 383s on eBay
School me.... I need info..
<strong>Those'd be great if you had a SBC for a motor. You have an LS1, and they won't work.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">So a 382 is the only "stock bore" option eh?
John
<strong>The biggest crank I've heard about is a 4.25" stroke Lunati.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I know that Lunati also makes a 4.125" Stroker crank too. 394 CID on a stock bore block, 414 CID on 4.0" bore block, 422 CID on a 4.04" bore block, and 436 CID on a 4.1" bore block.
<strong>undersquare sucks.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">No, small cubes suck. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" /> Everything is relative.
I think we may start seeing some nice undersquare motors with more people using the iron 6.0L block for strength and reliability. I think people just got turned off to strokers when the Lunati kit didn't perform very well. Porting techniques and LS1 knowledge has come a long way since then. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />
Take care.
John
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SBC 302 vs. SBC 305. all things being equal the 302 performs better. just as the 382 vs. 382....all other things being equal. personnally i wouldnt want to have to do extra crap to increase flow and efficiency rather than just spend comparable money for an oversquare motor rather than an undersquare one. but i guess there are good performing under's out there...i guess.
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I'm currently having one built that is maybe just a touch hotter but, only with a 4.03" bore. I'm thinking real hard about having a reverse split cam in there to help intake flow out a little. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />
I will agree that the bigger bore motors have an advantage but, I'm wondering if you can actually feel the difference between 490 and 520 rwhp. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Razz]" src="gr_tounge.gif" />
John <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />
<strong> </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by XLR8NSS:
<strong>The biggest crank I've heard about is a 4.25" stroke Lunati.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I know that Lunati also makes a 4.125" Stroker crank too. 394 CID on a stock bore block, 414 CID on 4.0" bore block, 422 CID on a 4.04" bore block, and 436 CID on a 4.1" bore block.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">So where is the sweet spot on a stock bore motor? 383? I am going for reliability - not 500RWHP - not that it wouldnt be nice.. I just want a solid bottom end for a 450RWHP motor... All comments welcome..
Say 3.90 bore +/- 5 and a 3.90 stroke.
U wouldnt need to unshroud the valves and I bet it would be a great power maker.
What cubic in would this make?
375?
JS
<strong>What about a square engine?
Say 3.90 bore +/- 5 and a 3.90 stroke.
U wouldnt need to unshroud the valves and I bet it would be a great power maker.
What cubic in would this make?
375?
JS</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">~373 cubic inches. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />
If your going to spend the money on a crank you might as well go big. The returns may be less the bigger you go on a stock bore but, I doubt it's going to make less power than a smaller stroke.
John
PS - Scat does make a crank but, I don't think its any cheaper than the others. There are 4-5 manufacturers making cranks for the LS1 now and the cheapest is still over 2000 dollars AFAIK.
<strong>Wasn't Callis or Scat coming out with a less expensive LS1 stroker crank a while back?</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I've seen ads now for Cola stroker cranks. They offer them in a variety of strokes.
The power isn't made in the bottom end anyways, it's in the heads. A good stroker crank will give you more torque though. I'm going with 6.0L heads and a Vortech, and later building a 6.0L block, and will probably go with a 4" crank. If I'm going to go with an aftermarket forged crank, I may as well go a little bigger and get some more out of it, especially since it won't cost any more to do so.
As I said I agree that the big bore motors have an advantage. I had to pick a point though(money wise) and stick to it. The iron block allowed me to go with a bigger bore over stock and put a little more into the heads which, IMO are more important than the bottom end for power production. I'm not sure how you come up with the same price for the big bore and an iron shortblock. There should be about a ~$1500+ difference. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" />
It would have been nice to lose the ~80#'s but, the project my motor is going in already has an iron block from the factory so it's no big deal. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />
One other thing that kept me away from the resleeved motors was the chance that it might have integrity problems. I know people say its not that big a problem anymore but, not being close to any major shops I didn't want to take the chance.
In the end for me it came down to setting a goal and seeing how I could accomplish it given certain restrictions. I think the iron block will take care of my needs. If it doesn't I might just kick myself for not getting the biggest, baddest setup available. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Razz]" src="gr_tounge.gif" /> <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />
Take care
John
PS - When AFR comes out with there new LS1 heads in a year or two I don't think 500+rwhp will be a problem on any block setup. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />
Tbyrne lists the lunati kit for 4100 bucks. i put 3500. Rapid motorsports says a resleeved bare block is 2600. the differnce in price is made up with pistons and rods which the lunati kit includes. granted, there are better/cheaper ways to do anything...but thats pretty damn close if you spend around 1600 for pistons/rods. this is just 382 v. 382. but say i did a 393 shorty and you did a 408+ shorty. after we bought blocks id be ahead and if you had to buy different pistons anyway....i still think they'd be pretty damn close.
Ryan
</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by XLR8NSS:
PS - When AFR comes out with there new LS1 heads in a year or two I don't think 500+rwhp will be a problem on any block setup. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" /> [/QB]</font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Any idea what the AFR LS1 heads might cost? I know new AFR Chevy Big Block heads start at about $1575 per pair bare...
<small>[ July 07, 2002, 05:31 PM: Message edited by: 99 Black Bird T/A ]</small>
<strong>Does a LS1/LS6 block have to clearanced (like a SBC does) for the Lunati stroker crank?
</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by XLR8NSS:
PS - When AFR comes out with there new LS1 heads in a year or two I don't think 500+rwhp will be a problem on any block setup. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" /> </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Any idea what the AFR LS1 heads might cost? I know new AFR Chevy Big Block heads start at about $1575 per pair bare...[/QB]</font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">These heads are a long way from production from what I heard. I'm sure pricing is not even being considered yet. Sorry.
John
Sorry for the confusion. I didn't realize what was being compared. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />
John
<small>[ July 07, 2002, 05:46 PM: Message edited by: XLR8NSS ]</small>
dreaming again....








