1999ssls1

iTrader: (71)

I got my cam bearings installed and the cam wouldnt go in. So I called my machine guy and he told me to sand them down with emory cloth. Well how smooth do they have to be? I mean cause I done that but they still have sanding lines in them.

Studytime

iTrader: (15)

You need to mind a new machine guy- that's a horrible idea and completely unnecessary. One of those bearings is not in straight. The front one is the hardest to get straight and likely the problem. You need to go to a shop that has an alignment tool for cam bearings (which isn't likely) or just have them stick in another front cam bearing.

Ben T.

1999ssls1

iTrader: (71)

They were all too tight. They are properly alligned. Just a cheap brand. So what do you think?

Studytime

iTrader: (15)

Cheap brand? All cam bearings are pretty cheap (unless they're coated, of course). I can't imagine a cam bearing that doesn't have the appropriate ID.

I can gaurantee you they're in crooked. Who installed them? I've ruined hundreds of dollars of cam bearings in my life by simply not putting them in straight. If the cam didn't slide into any of the bearings then they were all tweaked during the install.

Ben T.

Studytime

iTrader: (15)

You should atleast (if it's remotely close) be able to get the cam to slide in. If you can do that, there's a chance to save them. Stick a stock cam in the front bearing and beat on the cam with a 2lb hammer to try and attemp to properly align it. They're toast anyway. That's a better idea than sanding on the bearing (wtf?).

Ben T.

1999ssls1

iTrader: (71)

The inner diameter was off. I tried the front and back bearings, wouldnt go in either. So I shaved them down.

1999ssls1

iTrader: (71)

that was with stock cam

Studytime

iTrader: (15)

Yeah, that's the part I'm saying is nearly impossible to be true.

Ben T.

LS1MCSS

iTrader: (18)

I don't know about an LS1/LS6 but earlier small blocks and big blocks don't have the same OD on the cam bearings. I could never figure out why chevy did that but they are different. Usually only about .002 to .008 difference but that is enough to cause problems if you don't match the new ones with the block holes that they come closest to fitting. If you put the bearing with the biggest OD in the journal with the smallest ID you won't be able to get the cam in. Been there, done that, and it suckes to have to buy another set of bearings. Like I say, this is for SBC and BBC. Late aluminum blocks may not be like that.

Studytime

iTrader: (15)

Also, when you buy a new set of bearings the cam will not necessarily go into them before they're installed. They're not round- the cam bore squeezes them round.

Ben T.

1999ssls1

iTrader: (71)

Has your cam gotten to you yet?

1997bird

iTrader: (2)

There are also 2 different cam bearing part #'s and depending on the year of your block you may have gotten the wrong set.

Studytime

iTrader: (15)

Oh! Man, I didn't realize that was you... till now. Yes, it arrived and is in very nice shape. Thanks buddy.

Ben T.

justin b

iTrader: (3)

1997bird is right,there are two different sets,you could have the bigger bearings pushed in the smaller hole,and that would cause it to be too tight,xcall a gm rep with block or vehicle vin to find out wich ones you need

Studytime

iTrader: (15)

Okay, there's another option- they are either in at an angle or it's the wrong bearing.

Ben T.

Bill Reid

iTrader: (14)

When replacing cam bearings in a GENIII/IV block... the cam bore should be line honed to both correct for ID and to compensate for core shift. FWIW, some bearings on brand new blocks from the factory (new motor takeouts) look "wore out" (have copper showing) due to line honing. This is normal.

Bill

1999ssls1

iTrader: (71)

Im glad you like it! Let me know when you get it in. I forgot to leave you feedback. Im doing it right now.