Kenny H

I changed my oil Friday night. I'm not sure exactly how many miles were on the oil, but it was more then usual. I do do a lot of highway driving though. I am using Castrol Syntec 10w30. When I drained it and took the drain plug off I noticed some gooyey type of substance on it. It was almost like a silicone, or maybe it was just built-up sludge? What is this? Why is it there? Should I do my next oil change much quicker at say 2000 miles?

Kenny H

Is this a very bad thing?

Patman

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Kenny H:
<strong>Is this a very bad thing?</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I would say so! Even if you didn't find that stuff on your drain plug, I could've told you that Castrol Syntec is not a very good oil (actually Kenny, I believe I did tell you that when you emailed me a few weeks back when you first put it in)

Kenny H

You very well might have....I have been busier then heck, I just forgot all about it....What would you say I should run then? Redline? Anything else that is a bit cheaper?

StevieZ

iTrader: (3)

Those are tiny pieces of metal that collect on the magnet! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" />

Patman

If you're looking for a low cost oil with the benefits of moly in it (like Redline has) go with Schaeffers 10w30 blend. I'm switching to this oil next.

Here is how to get it:

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/mainorderpage.htm

2000 Camaro SS

Hey Patman,
Isn't a very small amount of medal normal. When I say small, I mean small amount. When my car was new I had some the first time I changed oil. Yesterday I changed my oil the first time after the new top end (250 miles). I had a very small amount of medal (I can't think of anything small enough for comparison. <---maybe that dot)

Patman

When an engine is first breaking in it's normal to be able to see little bits of metal like that, but Kenny's engine is well beyond the break in point. I don't think he should be seeing anything visually at this point.

StevieZ

iTrader: (3)

Most all oils will allow enough wear in the motor to leave a noticable amount of residue on a magnetic drainplug , especially with extended drain intervals.This goes for higher mileage cars too. Some are worse than others. Some are better.

Patman

I disagree with that statement Stevie. I have seen oil analysis results on people doing extended drains (10k+) with Amsoil or Schaeffers for example, and they have single digit wear numbers (less than 10ppm) in all categories. There is no way you're gonna visually see any metal if you've got such low wear metals like that.

But just like I said in the other recent thread, there is more to an oil's condition than just looking at the drain plug residue. It would've been very interesting to see an oil analysis on Kenny's oil.

<small>[ August 05, 2002, 08:34 AM: Message edited by: Patman ]</small>

Superman

After doing heads/cam I had soup like tiny metal shavings for a several oil changes.... never caused a problem.. larger pieces would be a problem thou.

Hardtop

iTrader: (3)

I had some metal on my drain plug when my car was brand new. After the second oil change none. Don't baby the car either. Use very little oil.

Patman, I've used Mobil 1 after changing the oil the car came with. First tri- synthetic, now Super syn, because that's all I can get. How well does Mobil 1 compare with other synthetic oil. Thanks,

Bruce

Kenny H

Patman,

I should have mentioned, last week I ran the GM Top-end cleaner through my motor. I put on about 500 miles since then. Could that be what this sludge was? I really don't think it was metal shaving, it seemed almost like silicone. Maybe the top-end cleaner broke up some deposits I had and it wound up down at the drain plug? I will get this oil out of here quick and maybe I will send it out? Its pretty cheap if I remember, like $30? It would be worth it for me to know whats going on. Would you suggest that?

VTtransam

Royal Purple is the best oil around. PERIOD. I've been running it in my car from day 1, no problems. My dad often puts upwards of 15k miles on an oil change(company ford truck haha) and has never had a problem. The stuff still comes out just as purple as it went in. We run it in all of our vehicals, never had a problem. My dad deals with Plants and Mills that said using royal purple lubricants have saved thousands upon thousands of dollars on the cost of worn bearings and parts while using other oils. No BS this stuff is great, i highly recomend it to anyone <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

VTtransam

Opps, posted that last reply in the wrong place, my bad

Patman

The TriSynthetic Mobil 1 is pretty good, but so far the SuperSyn hasn't proven itself. A few people I know and respect in the oil industry don't seem to think too highly of it though, mainly because of it's reduced zinc and phosphorus levels. The proof will be when the oil analysis results come in. When we get this stuff up here I plan on running it in my wife's car and having it analyzed to compare to TriSynthetic (which is what I've always run in her Civic)

Speedfreaks101

PATMAN
What oils do you consider the best? I saw that you recommended Redline and Schaeffers, but are there any others?

Patman

I also think Amsoil is very good too. It all boils down to how long you want to leave it in for. Honestly, if you're gonna change it out at 3k, don't waste your money on synthetic, as you'll have almost no benefits with synthetic when you drain it out early. It's one main benefit is it's ability to last for longer intervals.

Kenny, it's only $25 to have it analyzed, so it's well worth it. Here is the guy I use:

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/terry.html

cantdrv65

iTrader: (3)

I witnessed a '90 model Chevy truck 350 go 120,000 miles WITHOUT an oil change PERIOD! This was using Havoline 10W-30 and only adding oil, he did not even change the filter!! It did plug up the inlet screen and throw a rod at that mileage however. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" /> After you've seen things like this you realize that you are really splitting hairs with oil analysis, it really is not going to make a difference IMHO. Basically all of an engines wear comes on startup anyway and NO oil will protect it from this only a prelube oil pump....

<small>[ August 06, 2002, 07:03 AM: Message edited by: cantdrv65 ]</small>

Patman

Engines based on older styles like that truck are more tolerant of stuff like that though. The more recent stuff with tighter clearances can't handle that type of abuse. Some engines were just built so bulletproof that they can handle infrequent oil changes like that.