muscratmauler

So any idea on #'s and where they peak (now that you mention it)
Anyone have a dyno graph of a 383 all bore?

thanx

Brian99Z28

The 382 LS1 strokers seem to dyno in the neighborhood of 420-450 rwhp.. The 382 all bore motors usually dyno between 450-480 rwhp.

The all bore is better IMO because you can keep your stock crank, and you can get a stage 3 port job done with the larger bore.

muscratmauler

what is the bore size? 4.00

Y2K Camaro SS

bore = 4.10 w/ stock crank <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

muscratmauler

Okay, so let me get this straight...........
4.100 bore stock crank is 382 CI
now what if you drop in a stroker crank?
how big can you go?
how many different stroke lengths are there?

thanx for your replies

AlonzoVersion 1.0

The 383 all bore does make more power but you can run more nitrous through the stoker.Its up to you and where you are going with the car.

Brian99Z28

A big bore along with a stroker crank can give you just about any ci you want all the way up to around 440 ci I believe with a regular ls1 block...

Now I've heard that the C5R block can be bored/stroked to 454 ci! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" />

Damian

iTrader: (89)

Remember all bore motors require resleeved blocks, which can lead to coolant issues. Until our sleeving problem is resolved, I think a big cammed LS6 headed 382 stroker would be the way to go for power and reliability...

Josh

Zeta

If you by a race case [c5r] outright, you can go to a 4.125 bore and never worry about a sleeve shifting.

RUF SS

IMO the stroker is more reliable than the big bore. I have the stroker and got around 450 rwhp and around 450 rwtq with a small cam. The car idles very good and easy to drive. It is going to be your call. I think the stroker is quicker than the big bore because they make power sooner and will have more TQ.

Check out my SIG for more info.

<small>[ August 15, 2002, 09:40 PM: Message edited by: RUF SS ]</small>

WeatherGuy

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by muscratmauler:
<strong>Okay, so let me get this straight...........
4.100 bore stock crank is 382 CI
now what if you drop in a stroker crank?
how big can you go?
how many different stroke lengths are there?

thanx for your replies</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">On a stock LS1 block, the largest bore that anyone has gone now (with a resleeved block) is 4.15". Most "bored" blocks are using a 4.1" bore.

The usual stroker crank everyone is using is a 4" Lunati, which gives a displacement with a 4.1" bore of 422ci. Now, you can go out to about a 4.2 or at most a 4.25" stroke (with possible block clearancing needed), but this is starting to introduce side-loading issues once you start going up to this size.

With some cheaper forged stroker cranks about to be available, it looks like there will be more choices soon on stroke length. Lunati also has other stroke sizes available besides the 4" stroke.

P&DZs

iTrader: (1)

4.000" Lunatti Stroker crank with 4.100" bore sleeved LS1/LS6 block=422 cubes, with 4.125" bore=427 cubes. Most of what had been done for a while suggested that bigger than 4.100" bore on the resleeved blocks was thought to be prohibitive because of wall thickness/siameesed cylinder relationship. I thought I'd heard more recently that that was being done though with some success. Up to that previous point though I think most bigger than 422's were recommending the C5R block for street useage as the sleeve dropping issue was felt more possible in street conditions or the consequences more inconvenient. Some of our more connected guys from some of our sponsers are more versed in all these details.

<small>[ August 15, 2002, 10:01 PM: Message edited by: P&DZs ]</small>

muscratmauler

ANYONE KNOW WHat the power differences are?
the stroke kite seem to put torque right at about the same peak as horsepower. What about the bores, is there a bigger gap just like head & cam cars 30 - 40 horses above the torque?
thanx for any help

ls1290

iTrader: (20)

With all bore motors, one can rev them up much higher than a stroker because the rotating mass is more centered. With strokers, they tend to produce more lower end torque than all bore motors.

squirrels

Let me throw another question on this thread:

My eventual plan (a few years) is to put 7-8# of boost to my engine. I was thinking a stroker would be a bad idea because of increased compression. Would an all-bore motor be a bad candidate as well because of the thinner cylinder linings and coolant issues? Would I be better off just going with a stock displacement forged setup with maybe some thicker gaskets to drop compression?

muscratmauler

so what kind of #'s are these 400 + cube motors putting down? horses and torque, also et. & trap speeds
and the 382 bores or strokes

thanx

strife

what are the sleeving problems?

383ss

iTrader: (14)

here are my numbers with a VERY SMALL CAM. 224/224 .539 114lsa

Car sounds basically STOCK. a "sleeper" lol

these numbers are with the H/L intake. Gonna re dyno soon and hopefully break 450 with the LS6. New 236/232 cam comming too.

<small>[ August 16, 2002, 09:25 AM: Message edited by: 383ss ]</small>

JS

iTrader: (4)

382 Stroker w/LS6 heads and the right cam in an automatic car will be insane!!!It should make 450RWHP/450RWTQ at low 6200 peak.

IMO,low/flat TQ w/a auto is the way to go

02 Block
Nodular Stroker Crank
Stock rods/Arp bolts
02 LS6 piston
Katech pump
Cloyes IRL chain
Coated bearings
Speed pro rings

Should be around $3000 to build the short block
Then u top it off with S2 LS6 heads and a wicked XE-R grind....

JS

BurnOut

iTrader: (1)

My own thoughts are that if you're looking to have a drag car, the stroker would be the way to go, since it has a broader torque curve.

However, if you're looking to have a road course beast, the big bore would be the way to go, IMO... once you got the motor up into its sweet spot it's all a matter of selecting gears to keep it there. You don't want an over abundance of low speed torque hazing the tires as you apply power out of a turn.

Just my thoughts.