383 ALL BORE OR 382 STROKE
The all bore is better IMO because you can keep your stock crank, and you can get a stage 3 port job done with the larger bore.
4.100 bore stock crank is 382 CI
now what if you drop in a stroker crank?
how big can you go?
how many different stroke lengths are there?
thanx for your replies
Now I've heard that the C5R block can be bored/stroked to 454 ci! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" />
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<small>[ August 15, 2002, 09:40 PM: Message edited by: RUF SS ]</small>
<strong>Okay, so let me get this straight...........
4.100 bore stock crank is 382 CI
now what if you drop in a stroker crank?
how big can you go?
how many different stroke lengths are there?
thanx for your replies</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">On a stock LS1 block, the largest bore that anyone has gone now (with a resleeved block) is 4.15". Most "bored" blocks are using a 4.1" bore.
The usual stroker crank everyone is using is a 4" Lunati, which gives a displacement with a 4.1" bore of 422ci. Now, you can go out to about a 4.2 or at most a 4.25" stroke (with possible block clearancing needed), but this is starting to introduce side-loading issues once you start going up to this size.
With some cheaper forged stroker cranks about to be available, it looks like there will be more choices soon on stroke length. Lunati also has other stroke sizes available besides the 4" stroke.
<small>[ August 15, 2002, 10:01 PM: Message edited by: P&DZs ]</small>
the stroke kite seem to put torque right at about the same peak as horsepower. What about the bores, is there a bigger gap just like head & cam cars 30 - 40 horses above the torque?
thanx for any help
My eventual plan (a few years) is to put 7-8# of boost to my engine. I was thinking a stroker would be a bad idea because of increased compression. Would an all-bore motor be a bad candidate as well because of the thinner cylinder linings and coolant issues? Would I be better off just going with a stock displacement forged setup with maybe some thicker gaskets to drop compression?
Car sounds basically STOCK. a "sleeper" lol
these numbers are with the H/L intake. Gonna re dyno soon and hopefully break 450 with the LS6. New 236/232 cam comming too.
<small>[ August 16, 2002, 09:25 AM: Message edited by: 383ss ]</small>
IMO,low/flat TQ w/a auto is the way to go
02 Block
Nodular Stroker Crank
Stock rods/Arp bolts
02 LS6 piston
Katech pump
Cloyes IRL chain
Coated bearings
Speed pro rings
Should be around $3000 to build the short block
Then u top it off with S2 LS6 heads and a wicked XE-R grind....
JS
However, if you're looking to have a road course beast, the big bore would be the way to go, IMO... once you got the motor up into its sweet spot it's all a matter of selecting gears to keep it there. You don't want an over abundance of low speed torque hazing the tires as you apply power out of a turn.
Just my thoughts.






