The Official "Spun Bearing" Club
05-15-2007, 09:10 PM
#84
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Originally Posted by Asmodeus
what could I do to better my odds?
I have 71k miles on my 99' shortblock, I've got katech rod bolts and a ported + shimmed oil pump, been shifting at 6800-7000.
05-16-2007, 07:59 AM
#85
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Yes, that is ALL bearing material....
More quality bearing material
Well this was a dead giveaway that there was a problematic bottom end. Every other piston looked fine, the number 4 piston just had an intake.
You can clearly see the combustion chamber in this image, and where the piston was hitting the cylinder head, as there is a cleaned off area.
BTW, this oil has less than 3,000 miles on it.
More quality bearing material
Well this was a dead giveaway that there was a problematic bottom end. Every other piston looked fine, the number 4 piston just had an intake.
You can clearly see the combustion chamber in this image, and where the piston was hitting the cylinder head, as there is a cleaned off area.
BTW, this oil has less than 3,000 miles on it.
06-19-2007, 01:59 PM
#86
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Hi, I'm Kirk and I recently spun #7 and 8 rod bearings. After one week of quick shipping on parts and some help from a very knowledgable friend my 01 z/28 is back on the road. We dropped the k-member and oil pan, installed a new crank, new clevite main and rod bearings,ARP rod bolts, new LS6 style ported oil pump, a new spec 3+ clutch while we were at it and an underdrive pulley to top it all off. My ticking noise was not that bad at all and my metal shavings were only in the oil pick-up tube and oil filter. I think I caught this quick before it could turn worse. Mine was caused by doing 3 back to back roll race runs w/ some friends on a stock 76,000 mile clutch....which caused me to miss 3rd on my last race...resulting in a couple spun bearings. Needless to say, even after the clutch breaks in....I will be hesitant to get on it.
06-19-2007, 04:11 PM
#87
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Im planning a cam swap here in the near future. I didnt realize how easy it was to spin a bearing. I now plan on replacing the bearings and bolts. Do I have to resurface the crank when I change bearings? Or can I just swap them in? My car has nearly 90K miles on it. Is this going ot be enough to allow me to spin it to 6800ish RPMs? Im replacing the oil pump and chain aswell but dont want to risk damaging the motor.
TIA for your help.
TIA for your help.
06-19-2007, 08:06 PM
#88
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^sounds like a solid plan to me so far. As far as I know, no resurfacing is needed unless you have damage done to it, like deep grooves. Go w/ good quality parts, don't skimp out. Get good bearings(federal mogul, clevite) get good rod bolts( katech or ARP) and while your at it, get a new clutch and 01-02 hydraulics it go w/ it. 6800 rpms should be no problem, but tell your tuner what you plan to do so he can adjust accordingly.
06-19-2007, 08:21 PM
#89
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Originally Posted by 01MMMZ28
^sounds like a solid plan to me so far. As far as I know, no resurfacing is needed unless you have damage done to it, like deep grooves. Go w/ good quality parts, don't skimp out. Get good bearings(federal mogul, clevite) get good rod bolts( katech or ARP) and while your at it, get a new clutch and 01-02 hydraulics it go w/ it. 6800 rpms should be no problem, but tell your tuner what you plan to do so he can adjust accordingly.
yeah I was looking at mogul bearings and ARP pro series bolts. I just changed the clutch so the slave/hydraulics will have to wait a bit.
thanks though I didnt want to buy that stuff and then find out it still wouldnt help me
06-20-2007, 07:36 PM
#90
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I guess I'll go agead and join in.. heading down the interstate I noticed oil pressure at about 10psi, pull over but by the time I did I heard the knock. Got the car back to the house and the gasket on my high quality fram filter is torn, and there's no oil left in the engine!
10-31-2011, 04:17 AM
#92
AND!!!! Bumping this back up! 
90k miles..
H/C/I full bolt on auto car.. Shifting at 6400, limiter set at 6550.
Don't know the exact rpm or mph but it was about 6k rpms and around 100mph or so.
Oil level was just a TAD under the completely full line.. As in, 99% of people would not blame it on that. I would say the high rpms with hard acceleration helped with the starvation.
Bought the car with 69k miles and drove the **** out of it every time I sat in the seat.. Probably 25 or so track passes in that amount of time.
Check your oil!!!!!! May not have been my culprit but 1/2 quart low didn't help. I checked my oil every other time I drove it, changed oil every track visit.
Heard a very odd sound, cutout open, and let out and shut the car off immediately, still doing a high rate of speed. Stopped in the road and turned the car on, oil pressure was a tad low but nothing else wrong..1/2 mile from house and we coaster most of way and then pushed it in the garage. Started next day to see what was going on wouldn't hold idle once to operating temps, loud chirping sound once at operating temp, sounded almost like it was in the transmission. Didn't run for more than 5 mins after the initial problem.
Pulling motor this week to see carnage.
408/ls3 in the works.
90k miles..
H/C/I full bolt on auto car.. Shifting at 6400, limiter set at 6550.
Don't know the exact rpm or mph but it was about 6k rpms and around 100mph or so.
Oil level was just a TAD under the completely full line.. As in, 99% of people would not blame it on that. I would say the high rpms with hard acceleration helped with the starvation.
Bought the car with 69k miles and drove the **** out of it every time I sat in the seat.. Probably 25 or so track passes in that amount of time.
Check your oil!!!!!! May not have been my culprit but 1/2 quart low didn't help. I checked my oil every other time I drove it, changed oil every track visit.
Heard a very odd sound, cutout open, and let out and shut the car off immediately, still doing a high rate of speed. Stopped in the road and turned the car on, oil pressure was a tad low but nothing else wrong..1/2 mile from house and we coaster most of way and then pushed it in the garage. Started next day to see what was going on wouldn't hold idle once to operating temps, loud chirping sound once at operating temp, sounded almost like it was in the transmission. Didn't run for more than 5 mins after the initial problem.
Pulling motor this week to see carnage.
408/ls3 in the works.
10-31-2011, 09:50 AM
#93
I threw 3 rods, well possibly 2 and the others went afterwards in an instant. Broke a hole in the passenger side of the block, took out a 3k mile replacement cam too. I also bent an exhaust valve oddly just 1. The first piston that let go disintegrated like a mini bomb in there heh.
I had 40psi pressure on idle and about that much under load, just before it went, it dropped to 35psi or so then bang. It did knock a bit, but at the time it was tough to hear. Normal on my setup was 55psi but spun bearing didn't click in because it wasn't like a drastic drop to 10psi. It was just within my idea of normal.
I'm running a forged LS3 now in anticipation of boosted applications in future.
I had 40psi pressure on idle and about that much under load, just before it went, it dropped to 35psi or so then bang. It did knock a bit, but at the time it was tough to hear. Normal on my setup was 55psi but spun bearing didn't click in because it wasn't like a drastic drop to 10psi. It was just within my idea of normal.
I'm running a forged LS3 now in anticipation of boosted applications in future.
10-31-2011, 03:49 PM
#94
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When I was a youngster I owned a chevy luv and on the way home from work it sounded like it broke a rod ,,,,,,,,so I sold it to a junk yard ,,,,,,,,later I found out it was the timing chain ,,,,,,,,,,,but all was good because this led to me purchasing my first Camaro . The last spun bearing I had was in my (at the time) 1980 Z-28 .
07-28-2012, 08:51 AM
#97
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Bumping this! I joined the club last night ): with the stock 168xxx bottom end... Here's what happened, raced a heads/cam camaro and I was spraying a 100 wet shot of nitrous. Let me just say, I DRUG the camaro LOL but after a 3rd run I started hearing some weird sounds so I pulled into a gas station to check it out. Had the car running for a bit and I could hear it knocking, not a really bad knock but you could tell it was knocking. I checked the oil on the dipstic and I was about 2 1/2 qts low on oil, re filled the oil and started the car again, oil pressure at idle was roughly at 20psi. Sure enough it's a rod bearing.
07-31-2012, 05:27 PM
#98
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I'm just gonna admit myself into this asylum. I became an associate member back in April this year but not officially until a few days ago. A group of friends and I went skydiving and I drove a few people in my 2001 Firebird Formula. Drove about 230 miles round trip without a problem. Parked it for the next couple days, then was trying to leave to meet some people and my car wouldn't start. Read some other posts on here and one said it may have been the theft deterent system not allowing the car to start. The solution was to arm the system with the remote, unlock the door with the key, and then try to start the car. That worked..................then the engine was knocking about as hard as a jackhammer. Couldn't even get it in the driveway under it's own power. Had to pull it in with the Envoy. I changed the oil and cut open the filter with aviation shears and didn't find anything but a couple pieces of metal on the drain plug magnet. Just got the inspection camera from Harbor Freight and pulled the plugs, didn't see much of anything unusual in the cylinders. Then stuck it through in the oil pan and pulled a bunch more chunks out with the magnet attachment. Now saving for a rebuild............
08-01-2012, 03:01 AM
#99
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I have a bad feeling that I will be joining this group sooner rather than later. 161k miles on the original motor. Changed the oil the other day and there were a lot of metal shavings on the drain plug, the car doesnt seem to hold "great" oil pressure (18-20 at idle, 30-35 going down the road), and I can hear a very faint tick at all times. I guess it's a good thing that I have always wanted a 402...
