brad8266

iTrader: (23)

Just take your pushrod and push on it a little bit and see if you can push the lifter plunger, it is resists some you are fine. When you use the checker just be sure not to try to force it super tight, just get it to zero lash.

-=Modified=-

iTrader: (3)

Comon sense stuff. Thanks for your help!

kukri

iTrader: (9)

So, my new lifters and pehaps new cam is dead due to not soaking the lifters huh

-=Modified=-

iTrader: (3)

??? Diagnosis? How did you lead up to that answer?

kukri

iTrader: (9)

No diagnosis just a guess. Was more of a question without ? sign than an asnwer. I didn't soak the lifters AT ALL!!

Anyone aware of the consequences of that? I'm thinking I'm getting the ticking noise because of short pushrods and not soaking lifters...

-=Modified=-

iTrader: (3)

Trust me and get a pushrod checker. Get the right sized PRs. It will save you all the headaches I have been though.

Some people get lucky and get away with not soaking them. With an MS4 I wouldn't take the chance. I didn't bother soaking my stocks while they were out. We cranked the engine over a few times without any fuel to ensure everything got oil before we fired it up.

I hope the ticking may be due to the oil pump oring (which I am definitely going to replace). I reused teh factory ring on the new ported pump. Maybe that was a mistake. There is a post about it around 10 posts or so ago.

Since my ticking I will have replaced the stock lifters for LS7 lifters, Oil Pump ORing and pushrod length (to be determined).
I hope to have the car started and running by 6 Apr 07.

brad8266

iTrader: (23)

Your lifters are probably fine. Not soaking them in oil will not ruin them, they will still pump up with oil after the engine turns over a bit.

PREDATOR-Z

It is not really necessary to soak them, but it is necessary to clean them with mineral spirit before install. I just dip mine 5 minutes before intstall.
P-rod checker is THE way to check for proper length. It is really easy to use.
Look it is not a brain fry:
Your lifter plunger will not collapse if you can still free spin the p-rod after torquing your rockers, so not need to worry about bleed. Just the fact that you can still freely twist the p-rod is a clear indication your p-rods are too short. The trick now is what size to get and that the checker will tell you.

kukri

iTrader: (9)

Oh well I didn't do that either

-=Modified=-

iTrader: (3)

Since we are in limbo right now here are a couple of random pics from the numerous swaps.

35000 mile dirty cylinders and pistons


Clean cylinders and pistons !

brad8266

iTrader: (23)

bling bling

bluehawk2

iTrader: (74)

I think I am in the same situation. About 7 months ago I installed Ported Ls6 heads with the stock type mls gaskets and a 232/236 595/601 on a 112 +4 Comp XE-R . I used comp OE replacement lifters. I didn't soak the lifters, however I did dip them in oil several times right before I put them in. I don't think that the lifters are bad or anything, however I am getting a shitload of ticking and tapping noises from the engine. It is probably more noticable now because I have not driven it in a couple of months.......................................Eithe r way it is loud..........It drives too strong and gets too good a oil pressure for any thing to be badly wrong...........when I put all of that stuff in I used 7.425 pushrods. That was supposed to be quieter that the 7.4's, but it is still really loud..........................I guess I need to invest in the pushrod length checker and set to zero lash(whatever that means)...........I will get someone to explain this proceedure to me when I get the Prl checker.


I used Patriot dual springs and I did not shim them. Could this have anything to do with the noise? I know that dual springs will make some noise. Give me some hints on what to do....................Also where do I need to buy the PRL checker at....pt# 7702-1........................Don't want to steal the thread, but our situations are similar.

brad8266

iTrader: (23)

Zero lash is the length between the rocker arm and the lifter without actually pushing the lifter plunger down at all. This is the distance you measure with the PR checker.

bluehawk2

iTrader: (74)

Makes sense. Does the PRL checker give you any instructions. I have one of the Comp 7702-1'ers one the way......................each turn is so much and then you add .075 for the lifter preload?? Wonder if the lifter preload is the same for the comp OE's?

Thanks

brad8266

iTrader: (23)

Yeah the OE Comps should be the same as OEM lifters. The checker is 6.8 closed and each turn adds another .050

bluehawk2

iTrader: (74)

Sounds simple, hopefully I can get the right pushrods in there and make it quieter. Damn thing sounds like a raggedy old mustang right now.

white99z28

iTrader: (8)

I had the same ticking issue on my h/c swap, but I knew what my problem was as I didn't go with hardened pushrods. I figured the cam I got .566/.568 222/224 on a 112, wouldn't be that bad on the stockers. Wrong! I bent one in the shape of a 7 as the rocker arm came loose. Worst thing I've done yet.

Evan

bayer-z28

iTrader: (14)

I was under the impression that 0 lash was when the pushrods stop spinning.

-=Modified=-

iTrader: (3)

That is how Brad explained it. Go to bed. You are too drunk for tech theory right now.

bayer-z28

iTrader: (14)

I don't remember posting that last night. I must have been more drunk than I thought.

UPDATE! We figured that we needed 7.350 PR's. The 7.425's were preloading the lifters WAY too much (not ran w/ these, just assembled).

On an almost dry lifter we found the point of preload. The PRLC was adjusted to 7.300 even. It was perfect. We already had a set of 7.350 PR's on hand so we just threw them in. We also have a .040 ~ish head gasket.

Now we just have to wait for Fed Ex to show up w/ the oil pump O ring. Then we're done, besides retuning. (was running a bit lean)