Project Dragula Update (Dyno #'s)
PS,tell that to Julio from Cartek,Geoff at TR and Craig Gallant from GTP.They all agreed--->GET THE STEPPED OFF THE CAR ASAP was their resonse..
So I listened,We'll see how it works out...
JS
So I listened,We'll see how it works out...
JS
JS:
Congrats on losing 64 pounds, but why did I learn this in a thread devoted to Dragula? <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" />
Can you talk about someone elses set-up w/o the discussion having to involve your car? <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" /> Next time, start your own thread instead of hijacking someone's elses. <img border="0" alt="[judgement]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_judge.gif" /> Oh, and take Chris with you. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Razz]" src="gr_tounge.gif" />
Congrats on losing 64 pounds, but why did I learn this in a thread devoted to Dragula? <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" />
Can you talk about someone elses set-up w/o the discussion having to involve your car? <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" /> Next time, start your own thread instead of hijacking someone's elses. <img border="0" alt="[judgement]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_judge.gif" /> Oh, and take Chris with you. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Razz]" src="gr_tounge.gif" />
</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by JS:
<strong>
Jason/TR tested them on his old setup and went back to the GROTS.The stepped Dyna's lost power from 3000 up..
JS</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">What you continually forget to mention is that the stepped dynatechs had 3.5" collectors in this comparison and the grots had the more appropiate 3"ers. Still havent seen an apples to apples comparison...
<strong>
Jason/TR tested them on his old setup and went back to the GROTS.The stepped Dyna's lost power from 3000 up..
JS</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">What you continually forget to mention is that the stepped dynatechs had 3.5" collectors in this comparison and the grots had the more appropiate 3"ers. Still havent seen an apples to apples comparison...
Rag u got me,I'll stick to the topic.Just needed to set the record straight when Frosty broke my ***** <img border="0" title="" alt="[Razz]" src="gr_tounge.gif" />
Fernis I know TR and Madman tested Stepped Dyna's w/3in collectors on 2 other cars and lost power too?There too big....
JS
<small>[ September 16, 2002, 09:46 PM: Message edited by: JS ]</small>
Fernis I know TR and Madman tested Stepped Dyna's w/3in collectors on 2 other cars and lost power too?There too big....
JS
<small>[ September 16, 2002, 09:46 PM: Message edited by: JS ]</small>
JS lost 64 pounds? So why doesn't he run faster?
Oh you guys are talking about the car running faster! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Roll Eyes]" src="images/icons/rolleyes.gif" /> <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />
Oh you guys are talking about the car running faster! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Roll Eyes]" src="images/icons/rolleyes.gif" /> <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 45,306
Likes: 1,745
From: Chicago, IL
Step will gain peak and lose some mid is it worth all the drama and downtime to change IMO no.
Thx Larry! I'll have that blessed converter into Dragula within two days of it getting here. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />
Thx Larry! I'll have that blessed converter into Dragula within two days of it getting here. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />
John I'll take the 12RWTQ I'll gain from the Hookers from 3000 to 5400 over the WHOPING 3RWTQ I gained from the steps from 5400 to 6500....
If u saw the dyno sheet u would agree.
The Dynas gave up HUGE amounts of BOTH HP/TQ from 3000 to 5400,I want that hit off the line and no one will make me think differently.
JS
<small>[ September 16, 2002, 09:51 PM: Message edited by: JS ]</small>
If u saw the dyno sheet u would agree.
The Dynas gave up HUGE amounts of BOTH HP/TQ from 3000 to 5400,I want that hit off the line and no one will make me think differently.
JS
<small>[ September 16, 2002, 09:51 PM: Message edited by: JS ]</small>
JS with your convertor, how much time are you spending in this midrange time? just a simple quwstion? you seem to be getting caught up in the promissed dyno numbers.
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 45,306
Likes: 1,745
From: Chicago, IL
I agree i would keep the step headers who cares if you lose some torque below 4500 rpms JS.
JAS, funny words from a guy who has never run 11's with cam, gears, and an ATI Procharger. I bet my raceweight was 3500lbs on Thursday. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />
JAS, funny words from a guy who has never run 11's with cam, gears, and an ATI Procharger. I bet my raceweight was 3500lbs on Thursday. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />
Chris,Here's the breakdown....
Car was 3562lbs with the OLD setup...
NEW setups RW was 3598lbs
Here's the breakdown of the car before I lost weight and did few mods
12-bolt 31lbs
Tq arm 11lbs
Bat box/loop 10lbs
LT Header 9lbs
5-point belt 9lbs
M/T Sportsmans 9lbs (on/off 2times,now on always)
Strut bar 5lbs
Puter/cables/ac/dc box 4lbs
That puts me at 3646lbs
Now take the Hals/Kmember (47) = 3603
Some Juk padding (5)= 3598lbs
Now u go on to say I did these mods too but this stuff was done LONG before I had the NEW setup on the car----->removed AC (Been off car for almost 2yrs), interior stuff (Same as it is now), Camaro seat (Been in the car for almost 2yrs),DS2(Made 2 run on them,Off the car now)
FWIW Chris I've lost 64lbs since May.
I did have the PS off briefly (5) DS's for one or 2 runs 9lbs in July along with no STB (5) but thats changed.
Chris no BS,the car weighs 3520lbs now,Its not much lighter than before but I hope to be 3500 by Feb.I'm losing 4 to 5lbs a month and feel 20lbs should be off me by then.
Now how about that apology <img border="0" title="" alt="[Razz]" src="gr_tounge.gif" />
JS
Fat guy in a little coat
Car was 3562lbs with the OLD setup...
NEW setups RW was 3598lbs
Here's the breakdown of the car before I lost weight and did few mods
12-bolt 31lbs
Tq arm 11lbs
Bat box/loop 10lbs
LT Header 9lbs
5-point belt 9lbs
M/T Sportsmans 9lbs (on/off 2times,now on always)
Strut bar 5lbs
Puter/cables/ac/dc box 4lbs
That puts me at 3646lbs
Now take the Hals/Kmember (47) = 3603
Some Juk padding (5)= 3598lbs
Now u go on to say I did these mods too but this stuff was done LONG before I had the NEW setup on the car----->removed AC (Been off car for almost 2yrs), interior stuff (Same as it is now), Camaro seat (Been in the car for almost 2yrs),DS2(Made 2 run on them,Off the car now)
FWIW Chris I've lost 64lbs since May.
I did have the PS off briefly (5) DS's for one or 2 runs 9lbs in July along with no STB (5) but thats changed.
Chris no BS,the car weighs 3520lbs now,Its not much lighter than before but I hope to be 3500 by Feb.I'm losing 4 to 5lbs a month and feel 20lbs should be off me by then.
Now how about that apology <img border="0" title="" alt="[Razz]" src="gr_tounge.gif" />
JS
Fat guy in a little coat
Holy **** man 64 pounds! You must feel like a new man! <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />
I thought you had AC in the car when you had JPR gear? What about carpet and juk padding, PS and all that *****?
What is your actual bodyweight now? I bet your heart is thanking you for the weight loss
Cheers,
Chris
I thought you had AC in the car when you had JPR gear? What about carpet and juk padding, PS and all that *****?
What is your actual bodyweight now? I bet your heart is thanking you for the weight loss
Cheers,
Chris
Terry u ran 127 with a TTS and a 2.5in Y.
I think that speaks for itself...
I've talked to a few GTP customers and a few TR customers about there results with the stepped headers on 346 motors along with both Craig Gallant and Geoff.They got the same results as I did,THEY ALL LOST power switching from a MAC,GROT or FLP in a 1 3/4 version...
Jason/TR tested them on his old setup and went back to the GROTS.The stepped Dyna's lost power from 3000 up..
JS
I think that speaks for itself...
I've talked to a few GTP customers and a few TR customers about there results with the stepped headers on 346 motors along with both Craig Gallant and Geoff.They got the same results as I did,THEY ALL LOST power switching from a MAC,GROT or FLP in a 1 3/4 version...
Jason/TR tested them on his old setup and went back to the GROTS.The stepped Dyna's lost power from 3000 up..
JS
Gator,I agree with u to a point.
Alot of people on here are saying,your not spending any time at 3000,4000 or even 4500 but I still believe this RPM has an effect on my launch even its for a split second.
My car feels too soft to me down low so if I gain alittle bit of TQ even for the street I'll be happy....
I talked to a couple of pretty smart drag racers and they all told me the header is more suited for 6000 to 8000 and thats where it will really shine,Unless of course u build a 38X CI or bigger motor.
Again I truely think 12RWTQ from 3 to 5500 is gonnna be better for my launch then the 3 or 4RWTQ I'm getting from 5500 to 6500.HP takes over up there and the 2 headers were almost identical at that point.
Dyna themselves told me to run the 1 3/4,I think that sez alot about there company.I have the Steps sold so its a wash as far as money.
Working on the car?I dont mind at all John and I need to do the converter anyway and change the plugs,I might at well put the RIGHT header in the car...
JS
Alot of people on here are saying,your not spending any time at 3000,4000 or even 4500 but I still believe this RPM has an effect on my launch even its for a split second.
My car feels too soft to me down low so if I gain alittle bit of TQ even for the street I'll be happy....
I talked to a couple of pretty smart drag racers and they all told me the header is more suited for 6000 to 8000 and thats where it will really shine,Unless of course u build a 38X CI or bigger motor.
Again I truely think 12RWTQ from 3 to 5500 is gonnna be better for my launch then the 3 or 4RWTQ I'm getting from 5500 to 6500.HP takes over up there and the 2 headers were almost identical at that point.
Dyna themselves told me to run the 1 3/4,I think that sez alot about there company.I have the Steps sold so its a wash as far as money.
Working on the car?I dont mind at all John and I need to do the converter anyway and change the plugs,I might at well put the RIGHT header in the car...
JS
</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by JS:
<strong>Again I truely think 12RWTQ from 3 to 5500 is gonnna be better for my launch then the 3 or 4RWTQ I'm getting from 5500 to 6500.HP takes over up there and the 2 headers were almost identical at that point.JS</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Where do you launch the car at? If you are launching any where down where you lost the TQ then you should get it back. If that means another set of headers then that is what you need to do. TQ is what rules. Get the car off the line as quick as possible. HP helps on the top end but the TQ is the work and you should get the most TQ at the launch RPM as you can.
Well, that is my feelings on the whole thing.
<strong>Again I truely think 12RWTQ from 3 to 5500 is gonnna be better for my launch then the 3 or 4RWTQ I'm getting from 5500 to 6500.HP takes over up there and the 2 headers were almost identical at that point.JS</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Where do you launch the car at? If you are launching any where down where you lost the TQ then you should get it back. If that means another set of headers then that is what you need to do. TQ is what rules. Get the car off the line as quick as possible. HP helps on the top end but the TQ is the work and you should get the most TQ at the launch RPM as you can.
Well, that is my feelings on the whole thing.
I totally agree,I leave at 2500 and flash to 4400,That hit I get from the better TQ in the 3500 to 4000 range will net me a better 60ft and better 1/4.....
JS
JS
</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by JS:
<strong>I totally agree,I leave at 2500 and flash to 4400,That hit I get from the better TQ in the 3500 to 4000 range will net me a better 60ft and better 1/4.....
JS</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I fully believe that! It is amazing what adding the TQ to the low end will do for the 60's and therefore the ETs.
Why do most people try and spray right off the line, for the extra TQ!!! And if you are launching at 2500ish, even though it is flashing to 4k, you are still slightly moving from 2500 to 4k, and if you are moving, then you need the TQ!!
<strong>I totally agree,I leave at 2500 and flash to 4400,That hit I get from the better TQ in the 3500 to 4000 range will net me a better 60ft and better 1/4.....
JS</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I fully believe that! It is amazing what adding the TQ to the low end will do for the 60's and therefore the ETs.
Why do most people try and spray right off the line, for the extra TQ!!! And if you are launching at 2500ish, even though it is flashing to 4k, you are still slightly moving from 2500 to 4k, and if you are moving, then you need the TQ!!
JS;
The torque at 2500 is irrelevant. 2500 represents what you brake stall to. You are no where near WOT at 2500. As you release the brake and mash it, your converter will flash up to 4000 - 4400 rpm as you hit WOT. It stays at this rpm (true stall speed) momentarily, but you now are at WOT, so you can take advantage of extra torque starting at this rpm. Bottom line is that I agree that an extra 12 ft-lbs torque at 4000 - 5000 will give you more ET than having an extra 3 ft-lbs above 5000 rpm.
For an M6 or an A4 racing from a roll, the situation is reversed.
The torque at 2500 is irrelevant. 2500 represents what you brake stall to. You are no where near WOT at 2500. As you release the brake and mash it, your converter will flash up to 4000 - 4400 rpm as you hit WOT. It stays at this rpm (true stall speed) momentarily, but you now are at WOT, so you can take advantage of extra torque starting at this rpm. Bottom line is that I agree that an extra 12 ft-lbs torque at 4000 - 5000 will give you more ET than having an extra 3 ft-lbs above 5000 rpm.
For an M6 or an A4 racing from a roll, the situation is reversed.
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 45,306
Likes: 1,745
From: Chicago, IL
I'm not convinced, I can see steps being a wee bit too big for a 346ci car but who cares if the torque is lower below 4500 rpms.
I'm keeping my 1.75 TTS headers for the simple reason I'd need a killer deal to justify swapping them in SEPTEMBER. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />
I'd spend the $$$ on how you can get to a 3400 raceweight.
I'm keeping my 1.75 TTS headers for the simple reason I'd need a killer deal to justify swapping them in SEPTEMBER. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />
I'd spend the $$$ on how you can get to a 3400 raceweight.







