Quickin

And how do they both operate?

LS1derfull

A hydraulic cam has lifters that compensate for lash or slack in valvetrain. Solids are designed to be set and maintained at a certain spec. for lash. The power difference comes from the cam profiles, solids can run more spring tension without chance of deflation so they can have far more aggressive fast action lobe designs.Spring tension actually causes some valve lift loss on hydraulic profiles and this hurts power also.Solids can turn higher rpm with the extra spring tension, and this fact is also why higher HP is possible.Hydraulics have come very far lately but Solid rollers are still ultimate way of making max power. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

VINCE

iTrader: (1)

The question is streetable? How much torque is lost from going from hydraulic to solid? I asked this question and I was told to not go this route and to go bigger engine..

Colonel

"The question is streetable? How much torque is lost from going from hydraulic to solid?"

None, and in fact, the solid lift has the potential to make MORE TQ at any rpm than a hydraulic cam. This misconseption probably stems from the fact that most often a very aggressive cam profile is used when one turns to a solid lift cam...but, you could use a very streetable profile as well.

Also, did you know that for a given duration a solid lift yeilds a smoother idle than a hydraulic cam?

<small>[ September 14, 2002, 01:54 PM: Message edited by: Colonel ]</small>

VipZ28

iTrader: (4)

<Grin> I've personally seen a few 244+ solid roller setups that idled better than 224's hydraulics!
<img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

<small>[ September 14, 2002, 10:54 AM: Message edited by: VipZ28 ]</small>

Terry Burger

iTrader: (4)

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">
Also, did you know that for a given duration that a solid lift yeilds a smoother idle than a hydraulic cam?
</font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">You mean COULD yeild a smoother idle.

Quickin

Thanks, I think I get it now, maybe!

Why do they call it hydraulic, does oil do something to it that a solid roller doesn't need?

It'llrun

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Quickin:
<strong>Thanks, I think I get it now, maybe!

Why do they call it hydraulic, does oil do something to it that a solid roller doesn't need?</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I was going to try a long description, but... Grab a Summit or Jegs catalog and you'll see the difference in the lifters used with each. This basically allows a more aggressive set up with solids. I find my solid cam quite streetable and torque is no issue at all.

VINCE

iTrader: (1)

So you are saying if you do not go with such an aggressive cam profile you can get more Tq.. i.e., like a 382ci tq out of a 346ci?

VINCE

iTrader: (1)

Another question... If the solid roller has potential to make more tq.. Why are we not seeing this? I do not see the point of going with a more aggressive ramp rate if you are not getting crazy tq.. Tq moves the vehicle..

Quickin

What if i put the most nasty solid roller in my ARE 436, what kind of power/torque can be expected? And is that literally the only part that would need to be changed? Or would other things need to be added or changed?

<small>[ September 14, 2002, 08:30 PM: Message edited by: Quickin ]</small>

XLR8NSS

iTrader: (4)

I think you need the cam, lifters, adjustable rockers, and some machine work done on the heads.

Nasty ARE solid roller 436ci...Hmmm, that sounds interesting. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" /> <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

John

PS - I think you need taller valve covers to clear all the adjustable rockers except the crane 1.8's.

<small>[ September 14, 2002, 09:50 PM: Message edited by: XLR8NSS ]</small>

nthnwbr

In "old school" small block chevy engines, solid tappet cams make considerably more valvetrain noise(obviously) and also require periodic lash adjustments. Does the same apply to LS1 solid roller cams? I don't think it could make much more noise than my stock lifters though. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Roll Eyes]" src="images/icons/rolleyes.gif" />

<small>[ September 14, 2002, 11:40 PM: Message edited by: nthnwbr ]</small>

LS1derfull

I have studied posts of dyno results with bigger solid cams on LS1 motors and peak power rpm doesnt go up all that much and even though cam narrows power band some, the results are still good. Torque under the peak is higher than more conservative cams, making this large cam still useable for street strip car.The point where you suffer is below 3000 rpm usually and thats why you need to gear and convertor car appropriately .
Still i endorse solid roller cams on lS1's. Combo is more sensitive to right part selection with these cams. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

VINCE

iTrader: (1)

Sounds like anything with a 4.10 and above on a ls1 with a solid roller would make for a mean street setup.. I personally think we could get 470rwhp plus out of a 346ci with 4.10's.. I really want to know how often the valve lash has to be checked and adjusted on a ls1. If once every 3k miles then I am all for it.. 470rwhp and over 400rwtq would make me very happy..

LS1derfull

I run a Jesel shaft setup on my near 700hp SBC and it has major cam and springs, with it i only check lash settings, they never need adjusting.There is no reason to believe LS1 with Jesel would be any different IMO.Lash changes use to happen alot because of rocker studs flexing and bending on old school type motors, not an issue on LS1. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

One Monkey

Lash dose get out of wack.. but on all the cars so far I check them after 6000 Miles or so... it's right around where the owners started see a change in power... <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" /> but it's very consistent from rocker too rocker.. after the first ajustment there sit well.