Rod bolt install write-up
8 second mod
iTrader: (37)
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 17,879
Likes: 1
From: East Side Performance! mASShole
good write up for sure.
i got rod bolts 100 years ago for my turbo set up, but ended up buying rods.
i still have the bolts so im going to swap them into my current stock short block build im doing.
cheep insurance with free parts. lol
good info. the motor i have has the sleve. doh
i got rod bolts 100 years ago for my turbo set up, but ended up buying rods.
i still have the bolts so im going to swap them into my current stock short block build im doing.
cheep insurance with free parts. lol
good info. the motor i have has the sleve. doh
On The Tree
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 197
Likes: 0
From: Huntsville, AL
I'm not a professional engine builder, but all of the pictures I've seen have been of the stretch gauge around the rod cap while it's off the motor. I've never seen a picture of somebody actually using one.
I was just confused as to whether or not you measured the bolt stretch while the rod / piston was in the motor. Common sense would say yes... But sometimes motors are not common sense machines.
I was just confused as to whether or not you measured the bolt stretch while the rod / piston was in the motor. Common sense would say yes... But sometimes motors are not common sense machines.
I'm not a professional engine builder, but all of the pictures I've seen have been of the stretch gauge around the rod cap while it's off the motor. I've never seen a picture of somebody actually using one.
I was just confused as to whether or not you measured the bolt stretch while the rod / piston was in the motor. Common sense would say yes... But sometimes motors are not common sense machines.
I was just confused as to whether or not you measured the bolt stretch while the rod / piston was in the motor. Common sense would say yes... But sometimes motors are not common sense machines.
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Teching In
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Is it worth it to swap? I am pulling a LQ4 out of my 2001 truck and putting it into my 1965 Chevy truck. It should be easy to replace the rod bolts at this time. Is there a lot of advantage to the stronger bolts?
I do not plan on real high rpms.
I do not plan on real high rpms.
Any difference between the Katech and Pro Series ARP2000? Seems as though everyone says you're good to go with swapping to Katechs, but questionable about needing to resize the rods with the ARPs. Problem is, the Katechs are more than twice the money.
Katech rod bolts were designed to be very similar in both weight and length to stock rod bolts, while considerably more durable for high rpm use. Pricey, but I felt the extra coin was worth Katech's assurance regarding rod honing (not necessary).
Granted, if an individual was tearing the shortblock apart anyway, rehoning the rods and purchasing the less expensive ARP's might be a wiser use of money.
Wow nice job, i have arp rod bolts and want to do the same but i am thinking about getting the katechs, not sure about the arps because i believe they are heavier than the katechs and katech stands by not having to resize so i am stuck on wheather or not to use the arps, Eric
well this gives me somthing to think about wheneveni do a UMI RR K member upgrade one day 
. While underthere and playing with the K member and major components around the engine, other then doing new motor mounts (or bushings if you are doing a kmember swap) is there anything else thats labor intensive that can be done while everthing is apart under the car?
. While underthere and playing with the K member and major components around the engine, other then doing new motor mounts (or bushings if you are doing a kmember swap) is there anything else thats labor intensive that can be done while everthing is apart under the car? 
Bump for more input on this. I'm also building an LQ4 and would be considering shifting at 6700ish. Motor is out of the car, so its easy access right now.
I believe the bearings will stack on each other rather than staying end to end on the rod eventually leading to rod knock... Another point to this install is you dont have to remove the a/c comp to change or remove motor mounts. I unbolted the mount and stand then turned it 90 degrees to remove the long bolt that holds the two together and then just replaced it in reverse when reinstalling the mount and stand. Next time the bolt will pull out from the rear of the motor and wont have to do either one ( remove a/c comp or the motor mount stand).