cws T/A

iTrader: (3)

https://ls1tech.com/forums/dynamometer-results-comparisons/104918-tsp231-237-patriot-ls6-style-head-dyno-results.html

SSwt00SS

iTrader: (18)

thanks Gunnar, and thanks cws for the link, too...

CoronaL

iTrader: (6)

cheap! Yes in price, NOT in quality or SERVICE. Gunnar went 1000% beyond the call of duty working with me, and I would not hesitate to recommend Patriot for a build when budget a concern. IF you have oodles of $$$ to blow the AFR's no doubt make great power, and I'm sure ET, TFS do as well, I would just go with AFR is $$$ was no object.
NOW if Gunnar and the crew would just dig those Predator heads out of their SkunkWorks they might change my mind for the high end too .

If I wasn't so dammed broke I'd love to run a set of Predator heads on my 2001 LS6+ Fast90 swap heading towards my 1992 Corvette .
Still undecided on what's going to happen there. May just end up throwing the oil burning hoe in there for now and running it as is until I can afford to do it up proper

Anywho! 2 thumbs up for Patriot. Very good products. Excellent service and value.

edit**btw I ran stage 2 or 3 5.3 Patriot heads on my 2000WS6 with a TSP 231/237 and the heads were milled about 30-40 thousandths. No PV issues, but I was crossing fingers and I used regular gaskets versus chancing cometic

amwellls1

3 years and not a problem, maybe you should try them.

Thule

yes coronal, Gunnar has comed very helpfull, answer all i asked him about, great service, and helped my alot, cant wait to get my heads

cowboysfan

I have been running PP LS6, 59cc,2.02in/1.57ex . with gasket that came with them. Comp Cam 231/237 .589/.595 112+4. sounds badass. over 10k on it and still pulls hard. this setup is good for 418rwhp/398rwtq. w/ ported tb and LS6 intake, stock crank. kooks lt, x-pipe td's dumped. you should have no problems with the cam you got. just make sure u rotate it several times before you crank it over with the key. for the price of Patriot Performance, cant be beat. customer satisfied here. thanks Gunnar and Patriot Performance.
"no fly cutting here"



fuerzaws6

Thule

good to hear,

if anyone has anything to add in this, pleae do, i will order to morrow 8)

Azrael

iTrader: (10)

Do you realize that the LS6 and LS2 are both 243 casting? In otherwords you said get the 243 castings instead of the 243 castings...

JonPMH53

I have the PP Stage II 59cc heads only with 2.05/1.57 valves and currently running .583 lift after the 1.8 rockers are added into the equation. I'm on a stock bottom end with a stock GM head gasket (.052 thickness) and had plently of PTV clearance to spare (thinking I should have gotten a bigger cam now!)

I think these things run great...beautiful port work and real nice quality machining. If you compare the flow numbers with other similar LS6 ported heads, they are not that far behind the big names like AFR, I think the highest I saw was around 6cfm less with the Patriots and that was at the upper end of the lift spectrum. When you factor in that they are $800-$1000 less than AFRs and they perform nearly identical...it was an easy decision for me!

SSwt00SS

iTrader: (18)

what exactly do you mean by 'rotate it' before starting with the key? do you mean to turn the engine (how exactly) with the new cam in. the specs on my cam are 231/237 .598/.596@112+2...tia

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

We have on other cars locally. Eastside tune and putting out garbage #'s compared to same year, drivetrain and cam choice with similar bolt on intake and exhaust. H/C car putting out Cam only #'s

Everyone has their opinion, I have mine, and I can assure you, I will not be buying them esp since there has been the talk of L92 stuff being made to fit standard LS1's

Good luck on the head choice, lets see some #'s and times and go from there.

TheLS1Kid

iTrader: (12)

HAHAHA i noticed that post a few days ago but i just didn't say anything

Thule

bougth stageII heads today, 59cc, roller rockers, 226/226 585 112LSA cam, FAST 90mm, NW 90mm, FAST fuel rails, ARP rod bolts =D cant wait for the summer,

cowboysfan

rotate it by hand... put crank bolt on crank shaft all the way in, put socket on crank shaft bolt, put ratchet on socket that is on crank shaft bolt. crank on ratchet that is on crank bolt that is on crank shaft several revolutions. u r doing this so if cam is too big maybe it will stop u from rotating engine further. u will be able to crank it over unless spark plugs are still in, then remove them if they are. when cranking if it does not want to then dont force it. could be valves hitting piston/pistons. remember u have hydralic valves so this could be tricky, cause at high rpm's yopu wont get much bleed down and when rotating by hand u do get bleed down. so what I did was buy one solid lifter, installed it, "rotated" by hand via "ratchet" and checked them that way. used old bolts, snugged w/ no gasket. if they hit, then to me would have been to close for comfort on PTV clearance. even with .050 something gasket. hope this helps some.


fuerzaws6