my 228/232 cam
#22
Thats why I would buy a tuner program and tune it yourself. There are enough knowledgeable helpful people on these boards for you to have that tuned nice. By the sound of it, your wot is good, its the af or idle that needs work. Keep the cam though, well unless you want to give it to me
#23
Originally Posted by TORCHD 02 TA
So i am going to be getting rid of this cam. it is a great cam, makes a lot of power and sounds great.
i am getting rid of it b/c of the tune problems that i have been having with it.
Warm start issue, idle dips when coming to a stop, bucking and hesitation. but above 2500 RPMs look out
so i am going back to my stock cam
i am getting rid of it b/c of the tune problems that i have been having with it.
Warm start issue, idle dips when coming to a stop, bucking and hesitation. but above 2500 RPMs look out
so i am going back to my stock cam
#24
I agree dont get rid of it and go back to stock. Sounds like your tuner isnt all that great. Have patients with it and find another tuner before desideing to get rid of it. if you do ditch it maybe try a 228R from tsp on a 114 lsa. Thats what i had in my 98 SS and it was great for my DD and made damn good power with full bolt ons. If i deside to go with the 228/232 cam for my 2002 SS i will probly go with a 114 lsa. Just dont give up on it yet man, I realize it is realy irritating but theres got to be a tuner around that can fix your problems.
#25
Originally Posted by TORCHD 02 TA
i keep telling the tuner that same thing that it is rich. at idle i have a white color smoke coming out of the tail pipes. But my AFR is good. WOT it is 12.8. and stoich was.. **** i forogot what stoich was i think 15
#27
Originally Posted by TORCHD 02 TA
No i do not have my own software. What could you do different? What part of MI you from? also i amy take it to FLP to get it retuned.....
keep me informed
keep me informed
#28
Originally Posted by SSpdDmon
I work in Detroit during the week, but I'm in Lansing on the weekends...about 3 hours to get there from Chicago's south side. If you don't invest in your own software, I could use a lisence on my EFI Live. But, it'll cost you $100 for me to get a new one. If you can't get your tuner to fix it, pick a Saturday and we can work on idle/driveability. Shouldn't take more than a couple of hours. I wouldn't officially charge you anything above the $100, but I'll be accepting tips if you like the work and are feeling generous.
Cant beat that deal!!!
Plus SSpdDmon has helped me out with a bunch of tuning problems on here so I would say he knows what he is talking about.
#30
Originally Posted by TORCHD 02 TA
I am a M6 car. You will be happy with it on a 112!!!! I think most of my problems is that it is cut on a 110. I mean it has 10* of overlap, but that is not that much...
Let me know how yours goes on a 112..
Let me know how yours goes on a 112..
#31
Thats too bad that it didnt work out for you man. Good luck on what you get next. Look into something like a 228 on a 112 or 114, that will behave betetr and be easier to work with.
I would just get a new tuner though and have your existing cam tuned in OLSD on a dyno so you can get each VE cell dead on. And then afterward you could put it back in closed loop so youe fuel trimming works again.
Is the car even coming out of open loop in the low rpms's? Mine has problems staying in closed loop during idle and I am sure it is due to the overlap of the cam pulling fresh air through the cylinders. But even still mine seems to run OK.
I would just get a new tuner though and have your existing cam tuned in OLSD on a dyno so you can get each VE cell dead on. And then afterward you could put it back in closed loop so youe fuel trimming works again.
Is the car even coming out of open loop in the low rpms's? Mine has problems staying in closed loop during idle and I am sure it is due to the overlap of the cam pulling fresh air through the cylinders. But even still mine seems to run OK.
#32
Don't quit already bud---you've got tuner issues, not cam issues. It literally took me over a month tuning the car myself to dial the idle in with the help of some guys online. Find yourself an established tuner that knows what he's doing, or pick up some tuning software and tackle it yourself with some help from folks here.
#34
Originally Posted by TORCHD 02 TA
I am a M6 car. You will be happy with it on a 112!!!! I think most of my problems is that it is cut on a 110. I mean it has 10* of overlap, but that is not that much...
The 110 is a great cam if your car was track only.
#35
Originally Posted by eamador11
The 110 is a great cam if your car was track only.
My 228/232 110+2 runs absolutely great now. It took awhile to get the tune right but its fine for everyday driving. I drive mine at 1000 all the time and have it idle at the stock 800. Still on stock 3.46 gearing also.
Shouldn't talk about things if you don't know...
#36
Originally Posted by eamador11
That is exactly why your having these street driveability issues. all you need to do is swap it to a 114 LSA and it will kick ***. (or 112 if you dont mind a little shake) Dont swap back to stock.
The 110 is a great cam if your car was track only.
The 110 is a great cam if your car was track only.
#39
Thread Starter
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From: Chicago
Originally Posted by Rob
And what do you have to back this up?
My 228/232 110+2 runs absolutely great now. It took awhile to get the tune right but its fine for everyday driving. I drive mine at 1000 all the time and have it idle at the stock 800. Still on stock 3.46 gearing also.
Shouldn't talk about things if you don't know...
My 228/232 110+2 runs absolutely great now. It took awhile to get the tune right but its fine for everyday driving. I drive mine at 1000 all the time and have it idle at the stock 800. Still on stock 3.46 gearing also.
Shouldn't talk about things if you don't know...
how did you get yours to run so perfectly? Got an tips? mine is on a 110+4