I had just gotten off the dyno, and was pulling away and noticed NO oil pressure. I pulled the pump and noticed before we even got it off that it was severly cracked. Took it apart and it has eaten itself.

Has anyone ever heard of this happening? It ran fine for 3 weeks.

Could Katech have ported it too thin?

I have pictures, can someone host it for me?

 

<img src="https://ls1tech.com/howto/infopics/katechpump01.jpg" alt=" - " />
<img src="https://ls1tech.com/howto/infopics/katechpump02.jpg" alt=" - " />

 

Damn!!
<img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" />

I had an ARE Pump fail. They all start as GM cores. <img border="0" alt="[barf]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_barf.gif" />

 

MelloYellow, what caused our ARE to fail? Did it crack or eat itself, pressure relief valve, or what?

 

Dunno. After I spun a bearing I was able to get a new engine. Noone did a post mortem.

 

Damn I hate to see this. I just put in a Katech pump about a month ago...

 

I'm sure its a fluke, I'm not dragging their name through the mud or anything. Sh*t happens I guess? Mistakes happen, its how well a company responds to a mistake that sets good customer service from bad customer service.

Hopefully they will respond with a new one and free shipping, its the LEAST they could do. After all, now I have more labor and material (oil, etc) down the drain.

 

Good thing you looked at the oil pressure!

Not so sure I want to replace my stock oil pump now with any aftermarket oil pump.

 

Buying new oil is the least of your concerns..... see all those little pieces of metal..... there in your motor too.

 

Thats my point. I'll run 3-4 oil changes/filters to get all the oil out of it! Would the filter grab all of the metal that got pumped to it? I also am going to put oil in the pan, and put a wet dry vac on the tube and suck it all up, so i get any metal in the tube.

What else should I do?

 

Big *** magnet glued to the bottom of the oil pan.

 

Will that be enough or should I pull the engine, tear it apart, etc? I really would rather not if I can get all the metal in it.

For what its worth, most of the metal seemed to be in the oil pump. There was NONE in the oil (haven't checked the filter yet), pick up tube, etc.

 

Honestly, I would go the cautious route and pull the motor to do a clean and inspect. The last thing you want to do is gouge your crankshaft/spin a rod/main bearing. Then you could replace the bearings with higher quality pieces and put in a set of ARP rod bolts.

The Stock oiling system does NOT send 100% of the oil through the oil filter.

Just my opinion.

Ryan K.

 

Would a back flush be a good thing to do?

Think there is any possibility a rocker arm bearing or something like that got loose and wiped out the pump?

<small>[ September 29, 2002, 11:18 AM: Message edited by: 99 Black Bird T/A ]</small>

 

What is a back flush, and how can it be done?

As for the rocker arm, someone at thunder told me that the chances of one of those needle bearing getting in the pump is about nil.

How hard is it to drop the motor with a hoist? I really don't want to do it if i don't have to. My funds are all but used up.

 

A lot of the oil change places and dealerships have the Bilstein oil flushing system. It's supposed to flush stuff out that in the engine. I've heard others say it's only good for flushing the screen.