SStolen

iTrader: (22)

I like the low-end street power the 224/224 makes but I love the top-end power and speed of the 230/224. I figured I would meet halfway and get the 227/224. Besides that, people seem to be having more problems with the 230/224. I also heard the LS1 doesn't breath as well on the intake side so a reverse-split cam is better..?? Any truth to that?
I'm going to match this to home ported heads. Should I get the heads milled over .030? I know it would lower compression for more hp (supposedly 10rwhp)so is it worth it? Any cons to me milling these heads? Should I change the valves in them? I don't know crap about heads to say. I was thinking about getting the Rev-lok dual springs as well instead of the usual Comp 918's. I figured they would hold up better than single's. Plus I'm kind of scared of the 918's. Was that just a bad batch they made or are they really unsafe?
This is the power package I've come up with, what else would I need? I want a powerful but reliable set-up.

-Thunder 227/224 cam
-Ported heads-
milled .030 over
rev-lok dual springs
titanium retainers
hardened/chromemoly pushrods- diff?
-LS6 intake
-Ported TB
-FLP LT's (need the ground clearance and heard the new design fits better and is easy to install)
-Programming- LS1 Edit
Are these items necessary->
-SLP double roller timing chain
-Katech ported oil pump
-Inline fuel pump and/or bigger injectors
-Comp 'R' lifters
-Upgraded valve and/or retainer seats??
Any help would be greatly appreciated. What else should I ad or look for? The extra items are for peace of mind. Worth it? How much power should I expect from this set-up? I want 425rwhp 410rwtq. I think my car was a strong runner to begin with. Dyno in sig is with lid and a cutout only.

<small>[ October 01, 2002, 04:17 AM: Message edited by: SStolen ]</small>

Nickn20

people having problems with the 230/224 cam? news to me <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" />

BTW you dont lose any bottom end going to the 230 cam over the 224.

<small>[ October 01, 2002, 04:44 AM: Message edited by: Nickn20 ]</small>

JC_1

What kind of probs are folks having with the 230/224?

Paul F

iTrader: (2)

I would be interested in knowing as well. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" /> <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" />

Paul

ScottyG

The only problem I have is excessive rear tire wear <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

Patrick G

iTrader: (14)

No problems with mine.

Thunder Racing has done lots of testing on the 224/224 vs. 227/224 vs. 230/224. In every case, the 230/224 matched the other cams down low and beat them up high. If you value driveability, the 224/224 is a better cam. If you value speed over everything else, the 230/224 cam is a better choice. Cams are like torque converters. They're all about compromises. Some cams and converters just sacrifice less and give you more. I'm still searching for that perfect combination. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

Murdock

iTrader: (2)

My passenger's keep crapping their pants, I guess that's a problem. I'm at about 700 miles on the cam, need to finish the exhaust, then I'll have some numbers. It works good on the street with the 4.10 gears. Where my old hotcam would start to fall flat, the 230 just keeps pulling to redline. It's wicked!

(btw, I went with the Isky springs)

<small>[ October 01, 2002, 10:05 AM: Message edited by: Murdock ]</small>

JC_1

The only problem I have is telling folks that I just have stock LS1 heads when they don't believe that I dynoed 413rwhp/393rwtq with just a cam.

jmX

Jason99TA emailed me a dyno graph of a 230/224 vs a 224/224 if you want to see it. I dont imagine he minds me posting it. I wont be able to put it up till tonight though.

black98ws6ta

iTrader: (77)

dont get the 230 cam ...you have a friend that does and he wants to stay kicking your a@#.

SStolen

iTrader: (22)

LOL. Black99TAWS6 is the **** that keeps breaking **** but I have heard of other cases where people are having problems.

Stu'sWS6

iTrader: (3)

What problems?? Be specific. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" />

Jason99T/A

iTrader: (21)

Here is the graph jmx was talking about. This is comparing the TR 224/224 114lsa to the TR 230/224 111lsa I used in my car. I also have a few grpahs comparing them to the TR 227/224 114lsa.

Only changes made between dyno runs were the cam. My car was a cam ***** for a little while there. lol

http://members.aol.com/jason99ta20/i...str224_224.jpg

<small>[ October 01, 2002, 09:36 PM: Message edited by: Jason99T/A ]</small>

Paul F

iTrader: (2)

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by SStolen:
<strong>I have heard of other cases where people are having problems.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Where??? Who???? What problems???

Paul

Fahad

I saw many with TR 227/224 they get awesome numbers also TR244

Your heads are ported without valves ???

Fahad ..

Paul F

iTrader: (2)

It's not just the peak hp that you are looking for, it's area under the curve. At say 6300rpms there is about 10wrhp difference between the TR224 and the TR230/224, but at say 6800rpms there is more like 50rwhp difference. So if everything lower is the same and you can make more power for an additional 400 or so rpms the car will go faster. The down fall to that is you have to spin your motor higher.

Paul

SStolen

iTrader: (22)

Ok, well that sounds fair. I can see that. Someone just told me that with the 230 I would have to rebuild my engine every year. Btw, what exactly would be needed in that rebuild? So lets look at things this way:
The 224 cam would be better if you wanted to shift high at say 6800-7000 rpm but not put the wear and tear on your engine....
BUT, if you don't plan on shifting past 6300 or so then you might as well get the 230 because you have that 'back-up' if you need it....
So basically, if you rev both cams up to 6300 then they will both be the same with the 230 having a slight edge. BUT, if you are losing the race then you have the option to rev higher and dig deeper for that extra 50rwhp. Is that about right Paul?
I don't plan on shifting past 6300 so I might as well get it just in case I'm ever losing a race. But will that still put the extra wear and tear on my engine even though the power output is the same up to that rpm? I plan on matching this cam to home ported heads. I might have them milled .30 or .50 over for a higher compression. Is that a wise decision and would that package work well together? Thanks for all the info.

gojo

iTrader: (12)

Jason, could you put up the 227 graph? How much of the difference is from the LSA?

Jason99T/A

iTrader: (21)

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by gojo:
<strong>Jason, could you put up the 227 graph? How much of the difference is from the LSA?</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">http://hometown.aol.com/jason99ta20/...str227_224.jpg

The title for the 227/224 says 224 cam, but that is wrong. It really is 227/224 114lsa + 2 degrees adv.

<small>[ October 02, 2002, 08:51 PM: Message edited by: Jason99T/A ]</small>

JS

iTrader: (4)

Its a good cam but the 230 kicks its *** hands down.
From 6000 on its worth as much as 15RWHP.
Its not alot at peak though about 7RWHP

Almost the same exact tq line but the 227 outgunned it by about 5 in the 4500 range.

IMO the 230 is the cam,PERIOD!!!!!
JS