just put in TR TRAK cam and have terribly low numbers.
#21
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yeah those are the springs im running 144832 crane dual springs 352lbs./in VS. comp springs 408lbs./in. would 56lbs make that big of a difference.
Last edited by little_chewy_69; 03-19-2007 at 09:27 PM.
#22
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Those cranes arent as strong as the patiot dual coil springs and the TRak cam will float the valves with the regular patriot dual coil springs. The extrem dual patriots sprigns or comp 921s are required when running the TRak
#23
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3 things:
1. Have another shop check your tune. idle should not fluctuate and should be steady at 900RPM. If theres no other shop around you, send your PCM to Charlie at RPM Motorsports for a mail order tune. 100 bucks!
2. always get a dyno graph, otherwise you wont know what the motor is doing.
3. swapping to NGKs was a very good move but its not the problem. Those codes may have stemmed from a bad tune.
1. Have another shop check your tune. idle should not fluctuate and should be steady at 900RPM. If theres no other shop around you, send your PCM to Charlie at RPM Motorsports for a mail order tune. 100 bucks!
2. always get a dyno graph, otherwise you wont know what the motor is doing.
3. swapping to NGKs was a very good move but its not the problem. Those codes may have stemmed from a bad tune.
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well as of now im going to call TR tech and ask if vavle spring upgrade is needed, get them installed, new plugs and i'll go back to the tuner. He had like ten people breathing down his neck wanting their **** done that saturday so he prolly was in a hurry. Also i've heard that mail order tunes will never be perfect and require a lot of specs on my entire setup. Plus there are only 3 dynos in SD yes middle of nowhere one's diesel spec and one's a newb so i think i'll just take it back to him and see what he can do with better springs in it.
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Hey guys,
Just talked to my tuner and TR Tech today. The tuner said that that valve float wasn't an issue and that im not getting enough air at the top of my RPM band for it to perform right, like 4500 and up. So i called TR and he daid that my mac mids(unported) and Y pipe 2 1/2" were robbing air flow, he also said that an LS6 intake would help but told me that a 90/90 setup would be optimum. he also said he didn't know how my vavles weren't floating with crane springs.
so i guess what i'm asking is it worth pulling my headers and porting the inside or should i just not bother with it. I know my Y has to be changed but was thinking about running a true dual setup and just using 2 1/2" all the way back and eliminating my cats. I was thinking about buying the comp springs but i think gonna go with patriot gold springs instead. Should i wait to buy the 90/90 setup after i do the exhaust mods and see what the dyno says.
Just talked to my tuner and TR Tech today. The tuner said that that valve float wasn't an issue and that im not getting enough air at the top of my RPM band for it to perform right, like 4500 and up. So i called TR and he daid that my mac mids(unported) and Y pipe 2 1/2" were robbing air flow, he also said that an LS6 intake would help but told me that a 90/90 setup would be optimum. he also said he didn't know how my vavles weren't floating with crane springs.
so i guess what i'm asking is it worth pulling my headers and porting the inside or should i just not bother with it. I know my Y has to be changed but was thinking about running a true dual setup and just using 2 1/2" all the way back and eliminating my cats. I was thinking about buying the comp springs but i think gonna go with patriot gold springs instead. Should i wait to buy the 90/90 setup after i do the exhaust mods and see what the dyno says.
#26
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I believe its a Tuning issue, and/or incorrect install, as Patrick said, the shims and springs are important.
a friend of mine has that cam, Fast90, a 3800 stall made 385 unlocked
a friend of mine has that cam, Fast90, a 3800 stall made 385 unlocked
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Originally Posted by seadoo
I believe its a Tuning issue, and/or incorrect install, as Patrick said, the shims and springs are important.
a friend of mine has that cam, Fast90, a 3800 stall made 385 unlocked
a friend of mine has that cam, Fast90, a 3800 stall made 385 unlocked
#30
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Originally Posted by little_chewy_69
Hey guys,
Just talked to my tuner and TR Tech today. The tuner said that that valve float wasn't an issue and that im not getting enough air at the top of my RPM band for it to perform right, like 4500 and up. So i called TR and he daid that my mac mids(unported) and Y pipe 2 1/2" were robbing air flow, he also said that an LS6 intake would help but told me that a 90/90 setup would be optimum. he also said he didn't know how my vavles weren't floating with crane springs.
so i guess what i'm asking is it worth pulling my headers and porting the inside or should i just not bother with it. I know my Y has to be changed but was thinking about running a true dual setup and just using 2 1/2" all the way back and eliminating my cats. I was thinking about buying the comp springs but i think gonna go with patriot gold springs instead. Should i wait to buy the 90/90 setup after i do the exhaust mods and see what the dyno says.
Just talked to my tuner and TR Tech today. The tuner said that that valve float wasn't an issue and that im not getting enough air at the top of my RPM band for it to perform right, like 4500 and up. So i called TR and he daid that my mac mids(unported) and Y pipe 2 1/2" were robbing air flow, he also said that an LS6 intake would help but told me that a 90/90 setup would be optimum. he also said he didn't know how my vavles weren't floating with crane springs.
so i guess what i'm asking is it worth pulling my headers and porting the inside or should i just not bother with it. I know my Y has to be changed but was thinking about running a true dual setup and just using 2 1/2" all the way back and eliminating my cats. I was thinking about buying the comp springs but i think gonna go with patriot gold springs instead. Should i wait to buy the 90/90 setup after i do the exhaust mods and see what the dyno says.
If you don't have an LS6 intake, that's a no brainer. The exhaust is less of a restriction than the LS1 intake is. So, to recap get a decent set of springs on the car and put a better intake on it, then reevaluate.
#32
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Originally Posted by little_chewy_69
Hey guys,
Just talked to my tuner and TR Tech today. The tuner said that that valve float wasn't an issue and that im not getting enough air at the top of my RPM band for it to perform right, like 4500 and up. So i called TR and he daid that my mac mids(unported) and Y pipe 2 1/2" were robbing air flow, he also said that an LS6 intake would help but told me that a 90/90 setup would be optimum. he also said he didn't know how my vavles weren't floating with crane springs.
so i guess what i'm asking is it worth pulling my headers and porting the inside or should i just not bother with it. I know my Y has to be changed but was thinking about running a true dual setup and just using 2 1/2" all the way back and eliminating my cats. I was thinking about buying the comp springs but i think gonna go with patriot gold springs instead. Should i wait to buy the 90/90 setup after i do the exhaust mods and see what the dyno says.
Just talked to my tuner and TR Tech today. The tuner said that that valve float wasn't an issue and that im not getting enough air at the top of my RPM band for it to perform right, like 4500 and up. So i called TR and he daid that my mac mids(unported) and Y pipe 2 1/2" were robbing air flow, he also said that an LS6 intake would help but told me that a 90/90 setup would be optimum. he also said he didn't know how my vavles weren't floating with crane springs.
so i guess what i'm asking is it worth pulling my headers and porting the inside or should i just not bother with it. I know my Y has to be changed but was thinking about running a true dual setup and just using 2 1/2" all the way back and eliminating my cats. I was thinking about buying the comp springs but i think gonna go with patriot gold springs instead. Should i wait to buy the 90/90 setup after i do the exhaust mods and see what the dyno says.
With a auto espcially unlocked it won't see the headline numbers on the dyno, but it should run well and be a heck of a lot faster than a stock cam.
Originally Posted by little_chewy_69
But he told me that it plateus out at like 3,700 and hp and torque start to fall off from there up.
Who installed the cam? You sure it was degreed correctly?
Also if you are getting miss-fire codes this could be due to the stall which is another issue altogether.
#33
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I have been down this road as well brother. I did opt for the 921's but I didn't shim at first. Day after the install I dynoed only around 340hp on a DJ. I tore back into the heads and shimmed them per TR's instruction. After a little tuning on the street I went back to the same dyno and this time got 382 hp but only 341 tq. And this was un-locked. I do have a LS6 intake and LT's going thru a Borla W/O for the dyno. I'm not impressed with my numbers yet but I think your springs may be one of your major factors. The cam pulls like a bitch on the street. Around 4500 to 6500 she screams. Good luck with your setup.
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well due to price i don't wanna buy the comp 921's, Aren't the Patriot gold dual springs just as good if not better than the 921's. And with patriots would i have to shim them too?
Last edited by little_chewy_69; 03-22-2007 at 07:25 PM.
#35
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Dude, you really need to get a better valve spring. This cam is hard on the 921's, I can't imagine having anything different. It also sounds like someone put a **** *** tune in it. My car drives like stock, except for a lil lope. I would think that those mid lengths are holding back on some power, as well as the LS1 intake. Getting a set of long tubes, and and LS6 of FAST 90/90 will get you up at least 30 rwhp.