NataSS Inc

iTrader: (9)

does anyone know what the limits of the stock bottom end are? I know the crank is good to about 550-600. But what about the rods and pistons?

NataSS Inc

iTrader: (9)

Or a better question, how high can you spin the stock rolling assembly? right now I hit my power peak about 6200RPM. Going to a solid roller will probably put my power a bit higher into the rpm range, but what can I safely spin that bottom end at?

Richard@WCCH

iTrader: (3)

What RPM do you expect the engine to be at when you reach 200mph? Choose the cam and gear to reach that specific engine/vehicle speed.

Good luck,
Richard <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />

30th TA 0219

Just curious why you would go to MTI for solid roller info. They are great, but ARE and Futral have a more extensive track record with solids. Ask Alan about spinning the stock bottom end up there with a solid.

NataSS Inc

iTrader: (9)

Alot of you know that I am running in the Open Road Racing circuit with my SS. I have set a goal for myself of trying to be the first person with a late model Fbody to hit a duece (200mph) with a stock bottom end (bearings and rod bolts only upgrades) and the use of NO power adders. Right now the car has SAE corrected numbers of 418.1 and 397.7. those numbers will be going up shortly with the addition of true duals and a sry sump. That "should" put me in the 430-450 range at the tires. With a stock ride hieght SS the drag coefficient is about .34. Mine is slightly less than that because I am lowered a bit thereby reducing the frontal area the car. I am also going to a Z28 hood and loosing the morrors on the car. Right now I am searching for a front nose piece that I can plug and smooth all of holes on the front of the car as well as attach an air dam to. Right now all of the math is saying the car can hit 191mph BEFORE I do any upgrades areodynamicly, but we all know what goes on paper and what really happens are 2 VERY different things.

I got some real good responses in this section last time I posted in this section. What do you guys think? Can I do it? Or is it going to take significantly more HP to get there?

Here is something to think about...

The drag coefficient is a number than aerodynamicists use to model all the complex tendencies of drag on shape, inclination and flow conditions. The equation is simply a reattangement of the drag equation where you solve for the C/D in terms of variables. The C/D is equal to the drag diveded by the quanity: density times 1/2 the velocity squared, times the frontal reference area.

As speed doubles, drag coefficient increases by the square. But what most people don't know, is that HorsePower requirements to double your speed, increases by the "cube".

Nasty N8

iTrader: (33)

Go with a monster solid cam. Good for another 20 or so hp`s.

NataSS Inc

iTrader: (9)

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Nasty N8:
<strong>Go with a monster solid cam. Good for another 20 or so hp`s.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I am working with MTI right now on a monster solid roller.

30th TA 0219

I wish you the best of luck, and if anyone can do it, it will be you! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> But I think it will be hard to do the "stock" motor ie shortblock. I would think you are looking at 500+rwhp @ about 6500 to do it. What gearing are you using. Obviously, a peaky motor won't get the job done. The LPE 650TT has what, 550 rwhp, maybe 570, (I say that because a friend of mine had one that only made 555rwhp) and it "only" hits 226 in a C5, waaay more aerodynamice than any F-Bod. I do think though, that your understanding of the task at hand will put you head and shoulders above everyone else. Best of luck <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" /> <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />

NataSS Inc

iTrader: (9)

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by 30th TA 0219:
<strong>But I think it will be hard to do the "stock" motor ie shortblock.

What gearing are you using. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I "think" the stock short block can hang. I have upgraded the bearings and the rod bolts, so that should help out.

I am going to stick with the 3:42 gear ratio. It seems to be the best set up I have found. Anything deeper and you run out of gear or over heat things. Anything taller and you run out of room or end up fighting wind resistance and dont have enough gear to push it

steve

more rpm is more spped in the business you are in also..

steve frank

AINT SKEERED

iTrader: (2)

Allan would spin a stock cammed moter 7000Rpm's <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

Teutonic Speedracer

iTrader: (20)

Look back at an old 95ish Road & Track, they tested a LPE 383 LT1 firebird that did 192mph with supposedly only 440hp. I do remember him using narrower tires. Aerodynamics is key. He had the nostrils taped up. I also remember a test of a Bugatti EB110 in Road & Track where when they took off just the mirrors, it went from about 206mph to 211mph.

Engine HP is great, but Aero HP is bigger at those speeds.

MONGOOS

I remember seing a marron Z28 (LT1) with a 383 making I want to say just over 400 at the wheels. It had a full ground effects kit, 17x11's in back, and a roadster style (LGM ZR28) spoiler. Also.. 2.73 gears. The owner claimed to have been clocked at 212 by a police radar gun. He also had a full suspension and lowered, yadda yadda... anyway, i think just getting the aero's down good enough will get you to your goals.

Dope

iTrader: (2)

A few things:

Slam that front end on the ground. That air dam will really help. Removing the mirrors is good. Ditch the wipers too.

Skinnier tires, depends on how well you need to corner. Some 245s wouldn't be too bad I wouldn't think.

Get some good coolers. Oil and rear end at least I'd say. You're gonna frag the bearings in the rear (and worse) if you're running near/at 200mph for any length of time. You mentioned dry sump so I assume you're including some kind of cooler in there too.

If you do a search, there have been previous discussions on this. I believe the general consensus that a stock f-bod with 500-525rwhp could do 200mph (with the right gearing). If you're putting down 450rwhp, and you've taken off the wipers/mirrors, smaller tires, slammed the car with an air dam, you should do it. 450rwhp is probably good for low low 190s mph with a completely stock body. I believe our mirrors are the worst part. Even duct taping the seams and stuff will help ya more than you think. Should be pretty sick hitting 200+mph!

Oh yeah, don't forget the cutouts in the driver's seat for your giant ***** of steel <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

Dope

NataSS Inc

iTrader: (9)

I plan on putting a tranny, oi, and diff sooler on the car in the near future. right now I am working on getting the new seats and cage in the car. I have talked to a number of the guys that run in the unlimited class of the ORR and most of them are of the opinion that the car will never see 190mph without a minimum of 500+RWHP. Most of them are real old schoolers but they do have alot of stick time at these speeds

Racehead

Are you back hounding these guys again ?!lol ! I say as is your car will do 190 mph, and mine will sit at 175 mph if I don't get a cam in it before then or use my nitrous, which is legal in SS and unlimited.

Have you picked out your GPS yet ? I'm thinking of the Garmin V+ for my needs.

Louis

iTrader: (7)

I dont know, but the stock stuff may hold at 7k, but surely not at the duration that you intend to run at. The crank will be fine, but why a drysump? you could run an external oil-water cooler in the rad. and be done with it.

I RR my car LOTS, and never have I had the need for a DS. If you run it a qt over, youll be fine.

The Con of the Solid roller is the extra revs you may have to turn.

Build a Tq monster, and run a taller gear. The Daytona 24hr. cars only run 85%of their max RPM on the banking. You dont want to spin that bottom end to the moon for that long.

Email me if ya have any questions <img border="0" title="" alt="[Cool]" src="gr_images/icons/cool.gif" />

NataSS Inc

iTrader: (9)

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Racehead:
<strong>Are you back hounding these guys again ?!lol ! I say as is your car will do 190 mph, and mine will sit at 175 mph if I don't get a cam in it before then or use my nitrous, which is legal in SS and unlimited.

Have you picked out your GPS yet ? I'm thinking of the Garmin V+ for my needs.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I might be going with the same one

NataSS Inc

iTrader: (9)

LG, sent you some mail