Using loctite in cam swap?
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,121
Likes: 74
From: somewhere in TX
Using loctite in cam swap? I am in the process of wrapping up a cam swap in my s-10. Alldata at the shop is real good about telling where thread lockers are and are not required and in the process of torque specs it mentioned nothing about using loctite for the retainer, cam gear oilpump, or timing cover. While it's still open is it necessary to go back and loctite everything as long as it is torqued correctly which it is.
all of the bolts are long enough to retain themselves, assuming they're properly torqued. i have known alot of people who have used zero locktite and none have had problems.
however, for extra insurance, the cam gear, cam retention bolts, and the oil pump bolts can be locktited.. it would be stupidly overkill to put locktite on the cover bolts..lol.. the new crank bolt has locktite from GM.
however, for extra insurance, the cam gear, cam retention bolts, and the oil pump bolts can be locktited.. it would be stupidly overkill to put locktite on the cover bolts..lol.. the new crank bolt has locktite from GM.
I would loctite anything that is subject to severe vibration. Blue (serviceable) if you think you'll have it apart in the near future. Or red (nonserviceable) if you don't anticipate pulling it apart for a while.
Good luck.
Good luck.
Originally Posted by MrDude_1
all of the bolts are long enough to retain themselves, assuming they're properly torqued. i have known alot of people who have used zero locktite and none have had problems.
however, for extra insurance, the cam gear, cam retention bolts, and the oil pump bolts can be locktited.. it would be stupidly overkill to put locktite on the cover bolts..lol.. the new crank bolt has locktite from GM.
however, for extra insurance, the cam gear, cam retention bolts, and the oil pump bolts can be locktited.. it would be stupidly overkill to put locktite on the cover bolts..lol.. the new crank bolt has locktite from GM.
I think common sense will lead you in the right direction.
Retainer plate - yes, use loctite
Valvecover bolts - not necessary
Originally Posted by 01WS6/tamu
Thanks, I'll go back and loctite it. All it is is a few minutes of time, it would sure suck to have to go back and do it twice.
blue locktite = you can undo it
red locktite = most people snap these smaller bolts off because they didnt know they needed a torch.... lol
oh and FYI, yea, my cam gear and oil pump to block and oil pickup are locktited....
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Originally Posted by brad8266
I used red on all the bolts and I was able to get them back off without much of a problem.
in an effort to confuse newbies everywhere, locktite put blue locktite in red bottles...
then in an effort to confuse people who think they knew of their trick, locktite then changed the color of the smaller tubes to put the blue locktite into a blue bottle/tube....
honestly, i think it was just a personal plot against me.
ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS locktite the cam sprocket bolts!! 
I used red just to be sure.
If you're car ever throws a p0343 (CMP High Voltage) code and your tach gauge stop working, but the will work every now and then, it's almost 100% certain that you're cam sprocket bolts have loosed up. TRUST ME. haha.
Locktite dem beeches!
I used red just to be sure.
If you're car ever throws a p0343 (CMP High Voltage) code and your tach gauge stop working, but the will work every now and then, it's almost 100% certain that you're cam sprocket bolts have loosed up. TRUST ME. haha.
Locktite dem beeches!
Originally Posted by MrDude_1
was the locktite bottle red or was the locktite actually red?
in an effort to confuse newbies everywhere, locktite put blue locktite in red bottles...
then in an effort to confuse people who think they knew of their trick, locktite then changed the color of the smaller tubes to put the blue locktite into a blue bottle/tube....
honestly, i think it was just a personal plot against me.
in an effort to confuse newbies everywhere, locktite put blue locktite in red bottles...
then in an effort to confuse people who think they knew of their trick, locktite then changed the color of the smaller tubes to put the blue locktite into a blue bottle/tube....
honestly, i think it was just a personal plot against me.
Mine, both blue and red, both came in small blue tubes...
Wonder what's with all the changes?
Originally Posted by MrDude_1
was the locktite bottle red or was the locktite actually red?
in an effort to confuse newbies everywhere, locktite put blue locktite in red bottles...
then in an effort to confuse people who think they knew of their trick, locktite then changed the color of the smaller tubes to put the blue locktite into a blue bottle/tube....
honestly, i think it was just a personal plot against me.
in an effort to confuse newbies everywhere, locktite put blue locktite in red bottles...
then in an effort to confuse people who think they knew of their trick, locktite then changed the color of the smaller tubes to put the blue locktite into a blue bottle/tube....
honestly, i think it was just a personal plot against me.
Used red on all my cam swap stuff multiple times, to include the rocker bolts. Didn't have much of a problem. 
And make sure there is no oil on the bolt threads or the hole threads before applying the loctite. I always hit the threads with brake parts cleaner before application.
TECH Resident
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 792
Likes: 2
From: SoCal
Another often overlooked benefit of using Locktite, is that it helps to prevent thread gallling. This is especially improtant if you plan on chemically cleaning (Brake cleaner)the threads prior to assembly. Personally, I would use the serviceable (blue) Loctite.
BTW, what does GM use on the bolts that are threaded into the block? Sure seems like there's some kind of compound on them when removed; Anti-sieze? Threadlocker?
Andy1
BTW, what does GM use on the bolts that are threaded into the block? Sure seems like there's some kind of compound on them when removed; Anti-sieze? Threadlocker?
Andy1
Kinda off topic, but worth mentioning so nobody makes the same mistake... I was using the red loctite on the three bolts from my flexplate to my torque converter on my 78 z28. Stupidly applied the loctite to all three bolts before I got under the car. And then I got a phone call. A few minutes later I could not get the nut to start on the bolt. Was a pain to clean the bolts and start over. APPLY THE LOCTITE WHEN YOU ARE READY TO SECURE THE BOLT!! I hope this will help someone, wish I had read something like this back when I was 19 
Originally Posted by Andy1
Another often overlooked benefit of using Locktite, is that it helps to prevent thread gallling. This is especially improtant if you plan on chemically cleaning (Brake cleaner)the threads prior to assembly. Personally, I would use the serviceable (blue) Loctite.
BTW, what does GM use on the bolts that are threaded into the block? Sure seems like there's some kind of compound on them when removed; Anti-sieze? Threadlocker?
Andy1
BTW, what does GM use on the bolts that are threaded into the block? Sure seems like there's some kind of compound on them when removed; Anti-sieze? Threadlocker?
Andy1
the bolts themselves are coated, but at the moment i cant remember the name of the process...
