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number 7 piston broke!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Old 04-02-2007, 11:49 AM
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Default number 7 piston broke!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

hey whats up i took my heads off and a piece of number 7 piston is gone why did this happen and what all would i have to do to fix it the cylinder walls still look good.
Old 04-02-2007, 11:58 AM
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Time to replace the pistons and rings. Also will need a cylinder hone.
Old 04-02-2007, 12:16 PM
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can i just replace one piston and rod
Old 04-02-2007, 12:30 PM
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No. the block must be machined, or at the very least inspected. A piece of my #5 ringland was missing when I tore my engine apart. That actually ended up cracking my sleeve. If that is your case, you'll need a new block too.

My advise would be to just buy a shortblock from a vendor. If you need a new block anyways, its just as cheap to buy a preassembled shortblock and be done with it rather than doing it yourself. I got mine from SDPC. Good luck man
Old 04-02-2007, 12:30 PM
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Originally Posted by fstls2camaro
can i just replace one piston and rod
yeah if you use the same old rings. I would rebuild the whole thing.
Old 04-02-2007, 12:36 PM
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do you know what caused it?
Old 04-02-2007, 12:39 PM
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Originally Posted by ChevyChad

My advise would be to just buy a shortblock from a vendor. If you need a new block anyways, its just as cheap to buy a preassembled shortblock and be done with it rather than doing it yourself. I got mine from SDPC. Good luck man
Yeah thats your best bet, plus its easier.
Old 04-02-2007, 12:45 PM
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Originally Posted by fstls2camaro
hey whats up i took my heads off and a piece of number 7 piston is gone why did this happen and what all would i have to do to fix it the cylinder walls still look good.
Number 7 is the cylinder that tends to run lean in the ls1, where you spraying the car? if not you probably got some crap gas and detonated the crap out of the piston taking out the ringland.
Old 04-02-2007, 01:03 PM
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it was no spray i just got it dyno tuned and when i was driving it home i wanted to see what it had so i went 2,3,and 4 gear and when i got off of the freeway i heard a loud tapping so i took my head off i see the top of number 7 is missing i dont know why this happened it is a head,cam ls2
Old 04-02-2007, 02:06 PM
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Originally Posted by fstls2camaro
it was no spray i just got it dyno tuned and when i was driving it home i wanted to see what it had so i went 2,3,and 4 gear and when i got off of the freeway i heard a loud tapping so i took my head off i see the top of number 7 is missing i dont know why this happened it is a head,cam ls2
That sucks to hear man...this is the first I've heard of it happening on a LS2.
Old 04-02-2007, 02:15 PM
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Problem with the tune???
Old 04-02-2007, 02:46 PM
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Originally Posted by fstls2camaro
it was no spray i just got it dyno tuned and when i was driving it home i wanted to see what it had so i went 2,3,and 4 gear and when i got off of the freeway i heard a loud tapping so i took my head off i see the top of number 7 is missing i dont know why this happened it is a head,cam ls2
you where way to lean..... to melt a piston NA your tune had to be totally screwed up
Old 04-02-2007, 02:47 PM
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What was your A/F ratio after the dyno tune?
What was your fuel pressure?
Is injector#7 working fine? Have you flow tested your injectors?

I am suspecting a lean condition caused by the tune, fuel pump or injector#7?

Did you run it hard for long time untuned? could be the problem.

Last edited by bluecamaroz28; 04-02-2007 at 03:38 PM.
Old 04-02-2007, 02:51 PM
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Originally Posted by bluecamaroz28
I am suspecting a lean condition .
Really..... u sure it wasn't a pissed off fairy that melted the top of the piston?
Old 04-02-2007, 03:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Juiced
Really..... u sure it wasn't a pissed off fairy that melted the top of the piston?


Hope you like my new signature.

Last edited by bluecamaroz28; 04-02-2007 at 03:37 PM.
Old 04-02-2007, 04:31 PM
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i told you guys to find a diff tuner...
Old 04-02-2007, 04:38 PM
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Default 13.1

that's sucks. i don't recomend running 13.1 or higher but i have done it on a few occasion at the track, 13.4afr, on the dyno is even more crytical cause you don't have cooling ramair, anyway i did two dynorun runs while watching the fuel using my w/b and theirs, the first run was 12.8, took the airfilter out and ran 14.4 and shut down at 4000rpm. my engine still in one piece, but if you don't know the afr and you mod it's not a good to run wot too often.
Old 04-02-2007, 04:42 PM
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Originally Posted by jetblast
that's sucks. i don't recomend running 13.1 or higher but i have done it on a few occasion at the track, 13.4afr, on the dyno is even more crytical cause you don't have cooling ramair, anyway i did two dynorun runs while watching the fuel using my w/b and theirs, the first run was 12.8, took the airfilter out and ran 14.4 and shut down at 4000rpm. my engine still in one piece, but if you don't know the afr and you mod it's not a good to run wot too often.
13.1 isn't really all that lean on an motor car if you start getting into the 14's then it becomes a problem. I'm guessing that his car was closer to 14.7-15.0 on the street.

I think you might want to get a new Lid/filter if removing it is increasing the air flow enough to change it 1.6 points, specially since it's a MAF car.
Old 04-02-2007, 04:52 PM
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13's AFr isnt gonna huirt anything, some LS1's even make more power in the 13's.
Old 04-02-2007, 05:03 PM
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13:1 isn't lean -if- everybody's singing the same
tune.

But the wideband shows the -average- AFR of all 8
(by contributed oxygen) and he might well have had
7 at 12.8 and one at 14.5, or something like that, if
an injector was fouled. Average would be 13:1 still
but one of 'em would be in a bad way.

The end injectors on dead-end rails are prone to get
the worst collection of silt and start delivering short
fuel. I'd go with fresh (or at least cleaned & flowed)
injectors on the rebuild and put the fattest flow sheet
ones in the #7 and #8, next fattest in #1 and #2.

The only bad injectors I've ever found (one Ford, one
Porsche) were both rail-end positions.

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