Tin Indian

Anyone know for sure whether or not the 98 LS1 blocks are drilled [and] tapped for the GM LS1/LS6 Timing Chain Damper? It's P/N 88958607

I have heard that the newer blocks are not drilled for it, but the older 97-98 LS1 blocks may be.

<img src="http://dodgetrucks.org/photopost/data/239Dsc00627.jpg" alt=" - " />

Thanks,
Ron

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<small>[ November 23, 2002, 09:15 AM: Message edited by: Kimchee and Rice ]</small>

Dyno

I have a new 99-00 block, it is NOT drilled for it. I also have 2 01-02 blocks, they ARE drilled for it. Hope that helps. Dyno

Tin Indian

Dyno...

Well, maybe I had it wrong. I sure thought I heard the older blocks were drilled. Someone said GM was going to make this standard equipment on LS1s, but changed there mind prior to production.

You said your 01-02 were drilled. Did they have the threads tapped too?

Sure like to install one on my 98 when I change the timing set.

Ron,

Tin Indian

JAS...

Thanks alot buddy...

Please let us know if your pictures will tell you anything. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

DrkPhx

iTrader: (15)

I just put one on my 98.It's drilled and tapped.
Bolted right on, but I had to take off the oil pump.

Tin Indian

BLKTA...

Thanks much..

You said you needed to remove the oil pump. By the looks of the picture, its mounted way above the pump. Just bolts to the front of the engine between the two timing gears. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" />

Ron,

30thta436

iTrader: (10)

look at the picture again. There is no oil pump on that engine. See the splines on the crank shaft. That is were the oil pump sits and it would cover alot of that dampner.

Tin Indian

I got ya....

And that is why I didn't buy the double chain. Just got the single Jwis / Rollmaster timing set. I really didn't want to lower the oil pan and mess with removing the pump.

Oh Well....

Thanks,

LS1swap

ouch $97.75 wholesale.... gm is making some proffit on that piece of plastic. i have 98 block. how much bennifit does it give???

30thta436

iTrader: (10)

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Kimchee and Rice:
<strong>I got ya....

And that is why I didn't buy the double chain. Just got the single Jwis / Rollmaster timing set. I really didn't want to lower the oil pan and mess with removing the pump.

Oh Well....

Thanks,</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">You are going to have to remove the oil pump to put on the timing chain. the pump covers the lower timing gear.

Tin Indian

Well, I am confused. I guess I meant that I didn't want to have to lower the oil pan.

I understand the oil pick-up tube needs to be removed and the oil pump needs to be shimed if a double roller chain is installed. Thats why I opted for just a replacement single chain.

I'm just confused about this a little.

Tin Indian

Well, I looked at a cam install page. I see the oil pump does not need to be removed just to install a cam and the chain, however, I see that the pump will need to be removed in order to install a new lower (crank) timing gear, and also a chain damper.

Is it true; To remove the pump, the pan really needs to be lowered too. This is what I have heard over and over.

I am still in Korea (for just a few more months). If I wasn't over here, all this would have been done a long time ago.

My experience has been primarily with Turbo Buick engines. Please bear with me... <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

Ron,

DrkPhx

iTrader: (15)

I lowered the pan maybe a 1/2". Just enough to get a 10mm wrench in there. Taking it off is not nearly as hard as getting it back on.

Ron - The picture is deceiving, you need to take the oil pump off; the bolts that hold the dampner on are about 2" long, so you need the space to thread it. Also the piece is actually manufactured by Cloyes for GM.

Tin Indian

Thanks everyone for your time. I really do appreciate it.

Ya know what. I really don't think I want to pull the pump off. I just may install the new single Jwis chain and the new upper Rollmaster cam gear and just leave the stock crank gear in there.

I didn't think the wear pattern on the crank gear will be a problem. But, who knows <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" />

It's really frustrating being in Korea (car is in storage in Phoenix) and just posting about this stuff all, the time..... <img border="0" title="" alt="[Sad]" src="gr_sad.gif" />

Time to 'Quit Talking and Start Wrenching'!

Ron,

Tin Indian

And to top it all off, I drive this POS 89 Hyundai Sonata over here that I paid 500 bucks for. (Condition = ROUGH)

I think when I leave here I won't even bother selling the damned thing. Maybe just take off the plates, and drive it into the lake! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

I need a drink!

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<small>[ November 23, 2002, 09:58 PM: Message edited by: Kimchee and Rice ]</small>

99 Black Bird T/A

iTrader: (4)

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Kimchee and Rice:
<strong>And to top it all off, I drive this POS 89 Hyundai Sonata over here that I paid 500 bucks for. (Condition = ROUGH)

I think when I leave here I won't even bother selling the damned thing. Maybe just take off the plates, and drive it into the lake! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

I need a drink!

______________________________________________</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Ron,

Get a large sled hammer.

Sell 1 whack for a $1 to your friends

Get a little extra mod money and have some fun with it, then drive/push it into the lake.

<img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />

30thta436

iTrader: (10)

You will still have to remove the oil pump to get the timing chain on, unless the chain comes apart. Other wise off comes the oil pump. There is no way to get the chain around the pump to get it on the crank gear(new or old).

jmX

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by 30thta436:
<strong>You will still have to remove the oil pump to get the timing chain on, unless the chain comes apart. Other wise off comes the oil pump. There is no way to get the chain around the pump to get it on the crank gear(new or old).</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">As tons of people have said already (including 30thta436 above), the pump is gonna be blocking you from removing the timing chain. At the very minimum, you'll have to drop the pan a bit, disconnect and push down the oil pickup tube and HOPE it gives you enough gap to remove the chain....otherwise, you're gonna have to pull the pump. Its only 4 bolts so I dunno why that is scary, the pickup tube/oil pan part is the toughest bit and if you want a new chain, there's no way getting around that. Sorry.

<small>[ November 24, 2002, 12:41 AM: Message edited by: jmX ]</small>

Tin Indian

jmX....

It's not scary at all. I just didn't want to have to jack the engine up in order to drop the pan a little.

xaon

iTrader: (12)

Yep, at the very least to change the chain you have to lower the pan, unbolt the pickup tube and twist the oil pump clockwise to disconnect the pickup tube from it. If it's an f-body, you do NOT have to jack up the motor. I just removed all the oil pan bolts except for the back two and let the pan drop about an inch to rest on the k-member. I changed out my stock oil pump to a ported katech and put in a rollmaster double roller while I was there.

Also, my LATE 2001 model formula does not have the holes for this damper drilled.
Pic here: http://www.cepheid.org/~kris/photos/...p/P1010053.JPG