Stock rods vs aftermarket rods
#1
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Buddy of mine is wanting to do a budget supercharger longblock, and he's asking me if he should do aftermarket rods.
I would like him to do the following:
Stage II FI heads
ARP head studs
Diamond 9:1 3.095 bore FI pistons
Eagle H beam rods
Stock crank
Stock block
But my buddy is challenging me on how good the stock rods are. I said they stock rods are very good when it comes to strength and consistency, but they utilize a press-in wrist pin.
Can someone post pics or maybe go into this a bit more?
I would like him to do the following:
Stage II FI heads
ARP head studs
Diamond 9:1 3.095 bore FI pistons
Eagle H beam rods
Stock crank
Stock block
But my buddy is challenging me on how good the stock rods are. I said they stock rods are very good when it comes to strength and consistency, but they utilize a press-in wrist pin.
Can someone post pics or maybe go into this a bit more?
#3
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I'm sorry, I meant 3.904/3.904 bore pistons.
In either case he would run ARP rod bolts.
Anyone ever broke a stock wrist pin?
<small>[ December 09, 2002, 04:06 PM: Message edited by: Pro Stock John ]</small>
In either case he would run ARP rod bolts.
Anyone ever broke a stock wrist pin?
<small>[ December 09, 2002, 04:06 PM: Message edited by: Pro Stock John ]</small>
#5
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Guy's, let's not get carried away here. First of all the bore size you are looking for is 3.905". Second, the stock rods are only good to right around 500hp. Yes, I know some have gone over that limit but, if you don't want to live life on the edge buy a set of aftermarket rods. You can get Eagle rods for $500 all day. They are not the best rod but, most of us will not break them.
Chris
Chris
#6
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Hi John, If your friend wanted to use the stock rods he could send them to a machine shop and have they made into full floating rods. Before after market rods became cheap and available this was done to chevy rods many times. I had a set like this in a 498 inch big block with many runs, with no breakage. It made 693hp at the flywheel. Jimmy BTW what did you find wrong with your car after you got home from the Thunder Shootout?
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I beleive the stock rods might be good for around 5-6 psi. But IMO I would go ahead and build a forged bottom end and run more boost(like 10-12). When I look at buying rods I look at weigh and strength. I chose the Scat ICR (i-beam)rods for my 355 I'm building. I took the weight of the stock rods then took the weigh of these rods and the weight of a 4340 Lunati rod. I picked the Scat because it was stronger than the stock rods and lighter than the h-beam rod. The motor is going to be spun to about 7200 rpm so I don't car to worry about things shattering.
Josh S.
Josh S.
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#9
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be carefull when trying to bush the stock rod. i have seen them come apart on the machine.
also, manley has a "stock" ls1 replacement rod out. its a 6.100 rod but is not h beam. its a nice peice tho. comes with the cap screws already in place and is fairly cheap and already bshed for floating pins
steve frank
also, manley has a "stock" ls1 replacement rod out. its a 6.100 rod but is not h beam. its a nice peice tho. comes with the cap screws already in place and is fairly cheap and already bshed for floating pins
steve frank
#10
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I'm with Reckless on this one. If the revs stay fairly stock and if the bolts are upgraded as a precaution then the rods won't be stressed any more then normal even if boost is being used, my 2 cents worth. Even press fit has some merits although most prefer floating fit. Mike.
#12
TECH Apprentice
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I'm with Reckless on this one. If the revs stay fairly stock and if the bolts are upgraded as a precaution then the rods shouldn't be stressed any more then normal even if boost is being used, my 2 cents worth. Even press fit has some merits although most prefer floating fit, maybe cost comes into that choice. Mike.
#13
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I think the stock rods are just fine unless your going to rev the motor beyond 6500rpm.
Even 6500rpm I am a bit cautious of though.
They are pretty nice as far as factory rods go.
Rpms kill the rods not boost or HP.
It's all about rpm. Yeah you could make enough power to bend them but pretty unlikely.
Good rod bolts are mandatory IMO.
And all pistons come with matching pins PSJ, you do not reuse stock pins.
No advantage to a floating pin at 6000rpm IMO.
You can make 700FLWHP no problem by only 6000rpm with forced induction with the blower pullied right.
I don't understand why so many guys pully these things tall and rev the motors needlessly to 6500+rpm to make boost.
Steve
Even 6500rpm I am a bit cautious of though.
They are pretty nice as far as factory rods go.
Rpms kill the rods not boost or HP.
It's all about rpm. Yeah you could make enough power to bend them but pretty unlikely.
Good rod bolts are mandatory IMO.
And all pistons come with matching pins PSJ, you do not reuse stock pins.
No advantage to a floating pin at 6000rpm IMO.
You can make 700FLWHP no problem by only 6000rpm with forced induction with the blower pullied right.
I don't understand why so many guys pully these things tall and rev the motors needlessly to 6500+rpm to make boost.
Steve
#14
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</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Steve...what is "bush"? </font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">well it's that nice area between her....
Oh wait, I think he meant bushings.
Floating pins require the rod ends have bushings installed.
Oh wait, I think he meant bushings.
Floating pins require the rod ends have bushings installed.