Bonus rod sticking out the side!!!
#1
Staging Lane
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The shop manager and I spoke on the phone today and told me they were running auto tap and had the car on the road when the car started to run funny and died. The tech restarted the car at which time there was a loud noise, which was later found to be caused by the bonus rod.
The first problem encountered was that stage 3 heads mistakenly found thier way onto the car. I was assured by the shop mananger as well as the head manufacturer that these heads would be no problem with propper tuning so I decided WTF if it works great, no problem.
According to the shop mananger there was coolant in the cylinder which resulted in a severe case of hydro-lock. The shop mananger feels the coolant ended up in the cylinder due to the heads and that they are waiting to hear from the manufacturer. I told him that "I feel no responsiblity for this." I can sense a nasty case of he said, she said. Any similar experiences out there?
What sucks is I have put redline, upf filters, redline through out **** retentive 3000 mile oil changes on my baby 2000 mag red corvette coupe without a scratch, not trusted to the dealer even and I know have a GD bonus rod sticking out my FXXXXXX ENGINE!!!!!
I dont trust anything inside that engine, what do you guys think??? I spoke to a friend tonight that CAN get me a LS6 engine out of the crate for at the most $5000. Regardless of the shape of the heads I want the St 2 that our agreement called for. What do you guys think.
The first problem encountered was that stage 3 heads mistakenly found thier way onto the car. I was assured by the shop mananger as well as the head manufacturer that these heads would be no problem with propper tuning so I decided WTF if it works great, no problem.
According to the shop mananger there was coolant in the cylinder which resulted in a severe case of hydro-lock. The shop mananger feels the coolant ended up in the cylinder due to the heads and that they are waiting to hear from the manufacturer. I told him that "I feel no responsiblity for this." I can sense a nasty case of he said, she said. Any similar experiences out there?
What sucks is I have put redline, upf filters, redline through out **** retentive 3000 mile oil changes on my baby 2000 mag red corvette coupe without a scratch, not trusted to the dealer even and I know have a GD bonus rod sticking out my FXXXXXX ENGINE!!!!!
I dont trust anything inside that engine, what do you guys think??? I spoke to a friend tonight that CAN get me a LS6 engine out of the crate for at the most $5000. Regardless of the shape of the heads I want the St 2 that our agreement called for. What do you guys think.
#2
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I look at it this way.
If the installer does not like the look of something they can give you the heads back and tell you they won't install them. When you say stage III you mean bigass valves? You can put big valve heads on a stock bore motor and it won't affect the cooling system at all.
Then again, sounds like maybe:
-they installed a warped head
-they used a bad head gasket
-they did not install stuff properly
They will need to help make this right.
If the installer does not like the look of something they can give you the heads back and tell you they won't install them. When you say stage III you mean bigass valves? You can put big valve heads on a stock bore motor and it won't affect the cooling system at all.
Then again, sounds like maybe:
-they installed a warped head
-they used a bad head gasket
-they did not install stuff properly
They will need to help make this right.
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who did the head work?
sounds like an overport job leading to water entering the engine from a water jacket in one or more ports.
steve frank
sounds like an overport job leading to water entering the engine from a water jacket in one or more ports.
steve frank
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PSJ,
Thanks for the reply, gaskets should be OK, I specifically asked for Cometick head gaskets. In defense of the shop manager, he said he would work with me on this. I plan on finding out clearly and conscisely what he means by this. BTW, the heads I wanted were Stage 2 not stage 3. He was trying to make the heads work. The shop accidentally put them on. 2.055" valves on intake, unsure of exhaust. From the get go I viocedconcern over too much head ( had the same problem with a GN I have built up through the years) No "Too much head" responses please.
Thanks for any help
Greg
Greg
Thanks for the reply, gaskets should be OK, I specifically asked for Cometick head gaskets. In defense of the shop manager, he said he would work with me on this. I plan on finding out clearly and conscisely what he means by this. BTW, the heads I wanted were Stage 2 not stage 3. He was trying to make the heads work. The shop accidentally put them on. 2.055" valves on intake, unsure of exhaust. From the get go I viocedconcern over too much head ( had the same problem with a GN I have built up through the years) No "Too much head" responses please.
Thanks for any help
Greg
Greg
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Steve,
The head manufacterer is considered to be one of the best if not the best on LS1s. I would rather not mention names as I would not want to see anyones reputation be harmed for being associated with an bad situation.
Respectfully,
Greg
The head manufacterer is considered to be one of the best if not the best on LS1s. I would rather not mention names as I would not want to see anyones reputation be harmed for being associated with an bad situation.
Respectfully,
Greg
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#8
FormerVendor
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The engine did fail due to an extreme case of hydrolock.
When we pulled the intake manifold off, the #1 intake port was completely filled with coolant.
I extracted the coolant from the port, and I could see a stream of coolant from the side of the port wall filling the port back up again.
I took a 90 degree hook tool and pushed on the side of the port, and a large piece of the side of the port broke out. It appears that it was ported extremely thin. It would have passed an initial pressure test after porting, but once installed and running, the heat and pressure caused the extemely thin port wall to crack.
I have pictures of the head that I could email you if you would like to see them.
So, the engine failure is due to the cracked cylinder head, but regardless of who is at fault, we will be taking care of the problem.
We apologize for the inconvinience, and we will resolve this as soon as possible.
-Jim Moran, Speed Inc.
When we pulled the intake manifold off, the #1 intake port was completely filled with coolant.
I extracted the coolant from the port, and I could see a stream of coolant from the side of the port wall filling the port back up again.
I took a 90 degree hook tool and pushed on the side of the port, and a large piece of the side of the port broke out. It appears that it was ported extremely thin. It would have passed an initial pressure test after porting, but once installed and running, the heat and pressure caused the extemely thin port wall to crack.
I have pictures of the head that I could email you if you would like to see them.
So, the engine failure is due to the cracked cylinder head, but regardless of who is at fault, we will be taking care of the problem.
We apologize for the inconvinience, and we will resolve this as soon as possible.
-Jim Moran, Speed Inc.
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Just to clarify, a stage III in this situation is a bit better than a stage II head. Basically getting better cylinder heads.
Sometimes heads get over ported and the porter breaks through... No biggie I'm sure the head porter and the installer are working together so that everyone shoulders a little of the responsibility.
Sometimes heads get over ported and the porter breaks through... No biggie I'm sure the head porter and the installer are working together so that everyone shoulders a little of the responsibility.
#14
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I recieved a phone call from John, the owner of Speed Inc early this AM. They are shipping the block off to see if it is salvagable. If I understood him correctly the rod cam out the bottonm of the oil pan. This happened under pressure from the starter. If the block is damaged he is going to replace it with a LS6 block. I am covering upgrades like pistons, rods and possibly another cam.
Still waiting to hear from the head porter.
John seems sincere in wanting to make good on this. I am fine on paying for parts only on upgrades.
What do you guys think of this set up?
St 2 heads, stock valves, 2X coil Comp springs,
346 CI block
Diamond pistons
Lunati rods and bolts
LS6 intake.
No cats/ no emmissions issues/ touring exhaust
Stainless works 1 3/4" Long tubes Swaintec coated
Car: 00 corvette 6 sp, 3.42s, RAM clutch
Wants: Dependible daily driver, no traffic, no emmissions issues, Drag strip 118-121 mph with minimal loss of bottom end, light to light street racing capablbilty. Basically a Drag strip sleeper cam. Set rev limiter at 6600, no bottle, no underdrive pulley, stock TB. I dont mind a little lope but fear issues with the local federales with a catless 224.
We plan on cam doctoring my existing TR224 112 cam, if OK John will probably use it, if not he will replace it with a cam of my choice. What do you guy think of:
220/220, 221/221 or 222/222 preferable on a 112LSA. With lift no higher than a .570" lift. The most aggressive ramp rate I would want would be a TR, I would not be interested in a XER lobe, due to vavle train stress. I want to stress that we have had enough issues and I do not want to throw in spring issues further down the road.
We plan on dyno tuning with LS1 edit
TIA
Greg
Still waiting to hear from the head porter.
John seems sincere in wanting to make good on this. I am fine on paying for parts only on upgrades.
What do you guys think of this set up?
St 2 heads, stock valves, 2X coil Comp springs,
346 CI block
Diamond pistons
Lunati rods and bolts
LS6 intake.
No cats/ no emmissions issues/ touring exhaust
Stainless works 1 3/4" Long tubes Swaintec coated
Car: 00 corvette 6 sp, 3.42s, RAM clutch
Wants: Dependible daily driver, no traffic, no emmissions issues, Drag strip 118-121 mph with minimal loss of bottom end, light to light street racing capablbilty. Basically a Drag strip sleeper cam. Set rev limiter at 6600, no bottle, no underdrive pulley, stock TB. I dont mind a little lope but fear issues with the local federales with a catless 224.
We plan on cam doctoring my existing TR224 112 cam, if OK John will probably use it, if not he will replace it with a cam of my choice. What do you guy think of:
220/220, 221/221 or 222/222 preferable on a 112LSA. With lift no higher than a .570" lift. The most aggressive ramp rate I would want would be a TR, I would not be interested in a XER lobe, due to vavle train stress. I want to stress that we have had enough issues and I do not want to throw in spring issues further down the road.
We plan on dyno tuning with LS1 edit
TIA
Greg