1CAMWNDR

iTrader: (21)

Chevy had a special retro Penske car at the Woodward Dream cruise that was a 471" motor. Don't know if the regular LS1/6 block can take this bore. might have been a C5R block. 4.25" is the biggest crank there is right now, so the bore had to be 4.2" <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />
Rumor has it that this is what the Colonel will be doing next.
John, I think even with a 4.125" stroke you could get some major rpms.

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

Just out of curiousity, what is the max bore for a C5R block?

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

You won't see me ever mess with more than 4.000 stroke because I'd like to keep the rpms up and not have BBC crate motor power.

Terry, according to a guy who I know has dynoed a lot with Ed Wright and elsewhere, dynoing on slicks can eat up like 5-10rwhp so next time for sure I will dyno on radials.

I'm leaning towards doing some Dynatech step headers. I am thinking X-pipe, but will be researching ways to quiet down the car, perhaps two sets of resonators and two sets of bullets. I can't take the sound of the bullets and neither can my local law enforcement. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

1CAMWNDR

iTrader: (21)

<img border="0" alt="[guns]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_guns.gif" /> Don't let 'da man rain on your parade! <img border="0" alt="[fight]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_punch.gif" />
<img border="0" alt="[jester]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_jest.gif" /> Police can really ruin a good thing can't they. <img border="0" alt="[jester]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_jest.gif" />
Like I said earlier, I like the stepped headers, X-pipe, and magnums idea. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

Thanks for the input Steve. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

John B

iTrader: (10)

Alright PSJ...you've had enough suggestions...NOW WHAT's THE PLAN? <img border="0" title="" alt="[Razz]" src="gr_tounge.gif" /> <img border="0" title="" alt="[Razz]" src="gr_tounge.gif" /> <img border="0" title="" alt="[Razz]" src="gr_tounge.gif" />

NHRAFORMULA00

iTrader: (2)

PSJ- if you want more HP, order some custom pistons with some big squeeze in them, keep the timing down and it will live. We run a Pontiac motor with 16 1/2-1 compression 468 cubes and it dynod 875 hp at Ted Borowskies in joliet at 8500 rpm before it starts to drop off.Look for a red 62 catilina at RT 41 this spring. GOOD LUCK!

SJH

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">
dynoing on slicks can eat up like 5-10rwhp so next time for sure I will dyno on radials</font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">So your moving to the hardcore world of the dyno queens now eh?
<img border="0" alt="[Fluffy]" title="" src="graemlins/fluffy.gif" />

Trevor @ Texas Speed & Perf.

iTrader: (3)

John,

I'm curious why you're so concerned with the dyno #'s. Let's say you swap to a set of radials and pick up 10 HP on the dyno. That isn't going to do a thing for you at the track. I'd work more on what adds real, usable power at the track vs. how to get a graph to read higher. The dyno is a tuning tool, not a trophy. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" /> <img border="0" title="" alt="[Razz]" src="gr_tounge.gif" />

Dynos and flow benches are the devil. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

Trevor

JS

iTrader: (4)

I gotta agree with Trev..
Dyno smyno...

Get STEPPED Dyna's and have a custon Y built with DUELS CUTOUTS,Make sure the cutouts are right at the end of the MERGE collectors too.This way you'll get the benefit of the merge collectors extra power even if its only a slight amount of extra power.I like the way FLP made there race cutout collectors and I would copy them whem making the Y pipe.

Then run 3.5in interm. pipe to a quiet single in/out muffler and to a single tail pipe.

That way you'll have a quiet exhaust for the street,It'll be fairly light and when u open it up it'll be like having 12in collector extensions matted to a merge.

I bet you'll see 15RWHP from this setup alone in the open collector mode.That gets u to about 486RWHP.Then add the Mezerie EWP and bump the timing alittle bit/tweek the fuel map.

Thats worth another 5RW too.
You'll be REAL close at that point John and be setup in race trim which is realistically how u drive it.

JS

JAS

PSJ - Maybe it's time to start with another f-body?

<img border="0" alt="[Fluffy]" title="" src="graemlins/fluffy.gif" />

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

I have dynoed 3 times this year, and the numbers go up everytime. A few years ago I made 375rwhp/410rwtq and went 11.7 almost full weight, and now I dyno +100rwhp/+110rwtq with 80 more cubes so it's pretty cool. I went from 114 to 122mph so that's not too bad. I'd like to make more rwhp I'd like to run as much MPH as I can.

I have a few scenarios kicking around in my head but I appreciate all the great ideas.

JAS, I would consider building another car, is your available as a rolling chassis? I just made an offer on one the other day.

Colonel

My C5R is 4.155" bore.

1 7/8" headers are a must at this point. My pick would be QTP. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Cool]" src="gr_images/icons/cool.gif" />

JAS

Heck John, everything is always for sale. With the blower on it it'll be well over 500rwhp and still run you about 1000x less than the money you already spent (or plan to spend again). Granted it's currently a 3650lb raceweight pig, but you can lighten that since it's mostly stock right now anyways (no k-member, etc). If that doesn't work for you, I have a nice red 88 GTA that's just begging for an LS1 in it. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />
(I will forwarn you that the exhaust is quiet and it idles like stock. It'll be hard to terrorize the neighborhood cops with it <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" /> )
Heck, it's about time to move to a Z06 anyways. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

John

99 Black Bird T/A

iTrader: (4)

PSJ,

LPE seems to want to show off what they can do, so they can sell the rest of us their stuff, so why not step up to the plate and give LPE a chance? Ed Potter should jump at making you a customer to help get LPE into the limelight on LS1tech. LPE has the reputation for making sure it's right and I would think this would be a very major plus given some of the past issues with said car. Talk with LPE and see just how bad they want one of their big Darton sleved motors in a high profile car, like yours.

While the pro ARE crowd will howl at this comment, you did ask for suggestions: I would ditch the ARE heads and get a set of LS6 heads (LPE, GTP, or MTI) for your large displacement engine if you pass on doing the LPE Darton set up.

The MORE Performance custom headers would be very nice to try. A set of 1 7/8 stepped would probably be better than the 1 3/4.

Quickin

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Colonel:

1 7/8" headers are a must at this point. My pick would be QTP. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Cool]" src="gr_images/icons/cool.gif" /> [/QB]</font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I got mine from Thunder, straight from the real Grot manufacturer. They both get them from the same place.

<small>[ December 18, 2002, 11:06 PM: Message edited by: Quickin ]</small>

Playdough

John, Stoping worrying about what that thing will dyno and start worrying about what it will run. The dyno IMHO is nothing more than a tuning aid. Timeslips is what impresses most people. But in the quest of the 500 RWHP I would say like most, Steped headers, maybe a little more headwork and a solid roller should net 500RWHP easy.

Anyway how many miles have you put on the car with it sitting on the dyno. A couple thousand? I bet its got more dyno miles than track miles. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" /> <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

redz_02

iTrader: (4)

if your going to pull the belt, u might as well take off the lid and filter.

redz_02

iTrader: (4)

if your going to pull the belt, u might as well take off the lid and filter. Just have fun trying to pull it on the dyno.

Colonel

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Quickin:
<strong> </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Colonel:

1 7/8" headers are a must at this point. My pick would be QTP. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Cool]" src="gr_images/icons/cool.gif" /> </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I got mine from Thunder, straight from the real Grot manufacturer. They both get them from the same place.[/QB]</font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Right, same header. Just happens that I got mine through QTP. You can't go wrong with QTP or Thunder Racing. Both have excellent customer service. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Cool]" src="gr_images/icons/cool.gif" />