Crazy Valve Tick
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Crazy Valve Tick this is sort of a 2 part question
I know i made a post about this no too long ago.. But the ''sewing machine'' sound is driving me a little nuts. When i did my cam install i went with the longer PRs: 7.425" i really think that my lifters is what i causing all that noise.
When the motor is cold there is really no noise at all. But once it warms up and the oil thins out, that is when i hear it more. Now i have never priced lifters. what is the best bang for the buck? How much do they run?
Rockers: The stock rockers for the LS1 one is what? 1.5 or 1.6? Can i benefit at all from rockers? What are the best ones and how much?
I know i made a post about this no too long ago.. But the ''sewing machine'' sound is driving me a little nuts. When i did my cam install i went with the longer PRs: 7.425" i really think that my lifters is what i causing all that noise.
When the motor is cold there is really no noise at all. But once it warms up and the oil thins out, that is when i hear it more. Now i have never priced lifters. what is the best bang for the buck? How much do they run?Rockers: The stock rockers for the LS1 one is what? 1.5 or 1.6? Can i benefit at all from rockers? What are the best ones and how much?
Originally Posted by TORCHD 02 TA
Rockers: The stock rockers for the LS1 one is what? 1.5 or 1.6? Can i benefit at all from rockers? What are the best ones and how much?
Actually the ls1 has 1.7 ratio for stock.
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Originally Posted by 6spd97ta
dont worry about just next time 
it.
you will always
to me
ok see yah i've had a rough day
oh yeah i
your thread....
it.you will always
to me ok see yah i've had a rough day
oh yeah i
your thread....yea you totally
my thread.I got no answers either
PRs are too long, when the engine is cold the metal parts are smaller/shorter than they are when its fully warmed. When it gets warmed up the lifters are preloaded more than they should be because of the longer PRs. Some can use the .425s and some cannot and must use the .400s.
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Originally Posted by Bo White
PRs are too long, when the engine is cold the metal parts are smaller/shorter than they are when its fully warmed. When it gets warmed up the lifters are preloaded more than they should be because of the longer PRs. Some can use the .425s and some cannot and must use the .400s.
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Yea, I'd swap pushrods back to 7.4's & like stated above the stock rocker is a 1.7 ratio.
For lifters the LS7 lifters are a great affordable upgrade for guys on a budget or not lookin to go wild with the motor. You can get a set for right about $100 from SDPC new.
For rockers, if you can pick up a extra set of stockers cheap, you can send them to Harland Sharp. They will modify them & reinforce the bearings for $250 + shipping. So you basically gotta pay $250 plus shipping both ways, but its still cheaper than aftermarket rockers. Plus you get to keep stock function(as in installation & ratio) with aftermarket performance.
For lifters the LS7 lifters are a great affordable upgrade for guys on a budget or not lookin to go wild with the motor. You can get a set for right about $100 from SDPC new.
For rockers, if you can pick up a extra set of stockers cheap, you can send them to Harland Sharp. They will modify them & reinforce the bearings for $250 + shipping. So you basically gotta pay $250 plus shipping both ways, but its still cheaper than aftermarket rockers. Plus you get to keep stock function(as in installation & ratio) with aftermarket performance.
Originally Posted by Bo White
PRs are too long, when the engine is cold the metal parts are smaller/shorter than they are when its fully warmed. When it gets warmed up the lifters are preloaded more than they should be because of the longer PRs. Some can use the .425s and some cannot and must use the .400s.
I'm very much interested in this since I have that same problem. My setup is a bit different (FMS13 with stock ls6 heads and .040 gasket). I did replaced the lifters with the LS7 style ones so I know this is not the issue. My pushrods are 7.400 so following that thinking, I would need shorter pushrod to eliminate the noise when engine is warm right?
Torch I was following this thread pretty close cause as you know I got a cam that will be goin in(hopefully where u told me) and it was very informative!! I guess the "moral of the thread" LOL....is that you need to measure the PR's exactly and not guess!! I hope it helps!!
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-internal-engine/669000-fk-n-valve-tick-won-t-go-away-lifter-preload.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-internal-engine/669000-fk-n-valve-tick-won-t-go-away-lifter-preload.html
Originally Posted by Bo White
Too much preload will sometimes bottom the plunger in the lifter out when the lobe pushes it up.
Proper way to do it is to get an adjustable PR and adjust it down loose and torque the rocker to 22ftlbs. Adjust the PR until you have 0 preload(plunger in the lifter is not depressed) andlock the PR down on the adjustment, pull the PR out and add .030-.050 to it and that will be the proper length you will need. If your existing PRs are too long you can shim the rockers but thats a bandaid over the problem.
Originally Posted by SSsuperdave
So do you mean that when the lifter bottoms out, it makes a ticking sound? If so ,could the rocker adjustment be too tight? If the pushrods are too long and you get a pushrod checker how do you go about checking length? Do you have to pump up the lifters or adjust to zero lash? I have a similar problem with my crane roller rockers, so this topic intrests me.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=669000
So torch what happened? i see you got it fixed! No I'm not stalking you LOL
I do not want to hijack your thread!
Secondly what do you recommend before mt car goes under the wrench for the cam install? O-rings,ls-2 pump,dual springs,what kind of timing chain?,what kind of head gaskets? any help will be appreciated!
I do not want to hijack your thread!
Secondly what do you recommend before mt car goes under the wrench for the cam install? O-rings,ls-2 pump,dual springs,what kind of timing chain?,what kind of head gaskets? any help will be appreciated!
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Originally Posted by litle8
So torch what happened? i see you got it fixed! No I'm not stalking you LOL
I do not want to hijack your thread!
Secondly what do you recommend before mt car goes under the wrench for the cam install? O-rings,ls-2 pump,dual springs,what kind of timing chain?,what kind of head gaskets? any help will be appreciated!
I do not want to hijack your thread!
Secondly what do you recommend before mt car goes under the wrench for the cam install? O-rings,ls-2 pump,dual springs,what kind of timing chain?,what kind of head gaskets? any help will be appreciated!
Car is pretty much fixed.....
i recommend, LS6 Ported and Polished Oil pump (new o-ring), as for springs, depends on the what lift you have. i would say anything higher than a .588 lift i would go dual springs, i went with ls2 timing chain. I left my stock heads alone.
Originally Posted by TORCHD 02 TA
i posted in that thread that you gave to me in this post..
Car is pretty much fixed.....
i recommend, LS6 Ported and Polished Oil pump (new o-ring), as for springs, depends on the what lift you have. i would say anything higher than a .588 lift i would go dual springs, i went with ls2 timing chain. I left my stock heads alone.
Car is pretty much fixed.....
i recommend, LS6 Ported and Polished Oil pump (new o-ring), as for springs, depends on the what lift you have. i would say anything higher than a .588 lift i would go dual springs, i went with ls2 timing chain. I left my stock heads alone.
Originally Posted by BIG_MIKE2005
or get a Melling oil pump, new o-ring & LS2 chain. The melling pump is just as good & a little cheaper.