frcefed98

iTrader: (16)

What the post says. Engine rpm 6400 max. Low Compression 9.1-1 to 9.5-1. FI Application

Aftermarket rods. Where to buy low cost forged eagles.
Which is better 6.125 or 6.100?
Is this a good rod
eagle PN CRS6125B3D
This is using the stock crank the motor is a 346FI build up, non stroker, no bore increase.
Thanks
J

red53gmc

Scat makes some 6.125" H beam rods.
$386 here http://www.sallee-chevrolet.com/Scat...ting_Rods.html .

sited12

You should always use the largest rod length you can fit in the block.

DONAIMIAN

iTrader: (18)

I only saw SBC and BBC rods <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" />

strokedls1

iTrader: (1)

If you are going to pull the engine to replace the pistons, you should swap out those connecting rods too. I had one fail and I was only pushing 365 rwhp with an auto. I got some barely used carrillo rods for $550. Just look for the deals because they are out there.

BIGBOS

I was told to stay away from running stock rods on an built F.I. setup, while the motor is apart you might as well do rods too...contact www.ls1speed.com

They can get you some eagle rods, these are what I will be using on my build up around the end of summer...

Stock rods will last for a while if you are using ARP rod bolts, but the time will come when one decides to go... <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

Fly By

The LS1 has a 2.100 jrnl. Get the Compression height changed to 1.311 with the reg. SBC rod, and they work fine.

wicked 98z

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by BIGBOS:
<strong> Stock rods will last for a while if you are using ARP rod bolts, but the time will come when one decides to go... <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" /> </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">And when it goes its not gonna be pretty. Go ahead and upgrade the rods.

smokin' joe 00 ss

The LS1 uses a powdered rod and they say it's good to about 500HP.

SStrokerAce

iTrader: (2)

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by frcefed98:
<strong> What the post says. Engine rpm 6400 max. Low Compression 9.1-1 to 9.5-1. FI Application

Aftermarket rods. Where to buy low cost forged eagles.
Which is better 6.125 or 6.100?
Is this a good rod
eagle PN CRS6125B3D
This is using the stock crank the motor is a 346FI build up, non stroker, no bore increase.
Thanks
J </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">That Rod can handle 700hp at the flywheel. Jegs is a good place to get them for $500+ shipping.

I like the Eagle over the Scat H-Beam, but the Scat is a good piece.

Bret

smokin' joe 00 ss

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by SStrokerAce:
[J [/qb]</font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">That Rod can handle 700hp at the flywheel. Jegs is a good place to get them for $500+ shipping.

I like the Eagle over the Scat H-Beam, but the Scat is a good piece.

Bret [/QB][/QUOTE]

Not to dispute the 700HP that you say the rods can handle but I just took a ReherMorrison racing engines program and they made a big point that the powdered rods were only reliable to 500 HP at the flywheel even though I know I,ve pushed that # with some of my SBC's with powdered rods in them.

LS1derfull

I like to rate rods for rpm not hp, because a stock rod could probably handle way more boosted hp at medium rpm than it could take with less hp at higher rpm non boosted. Make sense?

LS1derfull

How many actual rod failures have you guys heard of or seen? I mean actual snap in mid section of rod? If rod bearing spins and seizes, this will break rod but im curious about snapped rods with out bearing failures, Anyone?

smokin' joe 00 ss

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by LS1derfull:
<strong> How many actual rod failures have you guys heard of or seen? I mean actual snap in mid section of rod? If rod bearing spins and seizes, this will break rod but im curious about snapped rods with out bearing failures, Anyone? </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Good question, everyone I've seen there is to much damage to tell if the rod failed itself or if a failure of something else caused it.

DanZ28

iTrader: (5)

LS1derfull, I agree with you as well about rating them for RPM. There is a much better chance that you will end up spinning a rod bearing than it breaking IMO, especially with the stock rod bolts...

Dan

strokedls1

iTrader: (1)

I snapped a rod right in the middle only running 365 rwhp 355 lbft, and reving to 6,600 on an auto. It snapped on a downshift at about 5,500 rpms. My whole bottom end was stock at the time of failure. Buy some decent rods. That is not the place to go cheap when you are talking about big buck to replace the engine.

peter d

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by sited12:
<strong> You should always use the largest rod length you can fit in the block. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">"largest"? longest ? i know what you meant! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" /> <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

annil8r

Well on a side note I would just like to inform u'all that "poweredmetal" is a forging read into them a little more. RPM kills rods not horsepower. I think it would be safe to say the stock rods would hold 800fwhp with good bolts, bearings, and oil pressure if not taken over 6200 rpms.
I know a guy that has stock crank and rods with arp bolts, clevite bearings, and diamond pistons that sprays 275 and his has been going for 2 years now no problems, knock on wood.

LS1derfull

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by strokedls1:
<strong> I snapped a rod right in the middle only running 365 rwhp 355 lbft, and reving to 6,600 on an auto. It snapped on a downshift at about 5,500 rpms. My whole bottom end was stock at the time of failure. Buy some decent rods. That is not the place to go cheap when you are talking about big buck to replace the engine. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Question, did half of rod still on crank spin free after failure? In other words was bearing fine on that rod? Thanks.

frcefed98

iTrader: (16)

Great info guys
I am pretty scared as is. With the ATI@9psi she put down 515rwhp/455rwtq and was spun to 6900rpm <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" />
The rev limiter will be taken care of it should of been 6400rpm but the tuner must of read it as 6900rpm on my info sheet.
I do have a new block sitting here and need to get some rods. I will go with the 6.125 eagles because everyone seems comfortable with that choice. Along with unported(for now)6.0 heads and Diamonds 11503's to bring down the compression to boost friendly territory. Should be upper 8.5 range with that combo right?
Thanks and keep the info coming, I want to build a stock displacement screamer and want to do it with LS1techs best help.
J <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />
<img src="http://mywebpages.comcast.net/jsbird98/dynoati9psi.jpg" alt=" - " />