Street Lethal

I'm not going to offer any cam recommendations, as it's apparent to me that you have an idea of what you want, and simply want everyone to solidify your decision for you. However;

Your mods are;

Kooks Full Length Headers, Kooks Off Road Y-Pipe, GMMG Chambered Cat-Back Exhuast, 232/234 .595/.598 112lsa cam, LS6 Intake, 4.10 Motive Gears...

Common sense would tell anyone that it's either in your tune, or your driving, or a combination of both. You should be pulling that stock LS1 so freaking hard from a dig, that he won't be anywhere near you at third. If your talkin from a roll though, carefully re-inspect your gearing....

It's not the cam, although you do need some head work to maximize on it's full potential....

oneBADDz

iTrader: (26)

Why did you even bother making a thread here if you aren't going to listen to EVERYONE on the site that knows what they are talking about. Everyone else onthe site that has a T2 runs better than you, yeah it's the cam

you sir, are an idiot. appairently you know more than all of LS1tech combined, cause 40 people have told you what you needed to know and you won't budge.

BAD2000TA

iTrader: (6)

Have you dyno'd the car? Where's the dyno sheet?

LS1rulz

iTrader: (1)

It's not been on a dyno yet. Just an absolutely comprehensive street tune.

Mr.MartyStone

iTrader: (12)

And there is the problem. How do you know if you're down on power at all? You don't. Put it on the dyno.

Marty

Summit2345

iTrader: (2)

the reason I'm not considering a MS4 is because everybody locally has told me that if I go that big I should go to a Trex, and from a dig when I had bald street tires I could be side ways spinning and stay beside him if that tells you anything. Its the top end of this cam that upsets me

Summit2345

iTrader: (2)

No I'm not saying that I know more than LS1tech I'm saying that the car ran better than it does now. The car had plenty of bottom end and top end before the cam. I was willing to sacrifice bottom to gain top figuring that I would still have good mid and top with this cam, but I guess I was wrong. I'm not going to waste time trying to put a band aid ( heads ) on something that apparently not helping me. So why not go with something different? I have found something bigger with heads can runs great too, so why not change the cam too since its been so disappointing. Even the tuner was surprised how much bottom end I had lost, but I thought I had gained more top. Well I was wrong! So I have spent close to a grand putting this cam in the car, and only to be disappointed so you can see why I no longer want this cam in my car. Its no different than when one person on this board has a problem with a product like spec or somebody, now everybody is scared of them, so why take the car apart two different times ,and get it tuned two different times to only find out that I'm still disappointed. I'm not saying that I'm not looking at different cam also. I'm also Looking at the trex very closely. I have searched, and searched all the cams you have mentioned. I have looked at peoples dynos on this site, and I have looked at all the vendors on this site to see what they have to offer I have looked at so many different cams I'm about to go crazy! When I looked at my first cam I looked for three months so don't say that I'm not listening I have just read so many good things about that cam

Patrick G

iTrader: (14)

Unless your cam lobes have gone flat, your cam is probably not in at the correct intake centerline. It's possible that you installed the cam 1 tooth off from dot to dot. It happens. If chain has lots of slack in it, your valve timing will be retarded and you'll have no bottom end torque. Lots of things point to something other than the cam.

Whatever you do, make sure you degree the new cam you install and always add a fresh chain to it.

LS1rulz

iTrader: (1)

From what I can tell, it's pretty basic: he knows because he isn't any faster than before, as judged by racing his buddy's car. Not the most scientific test, but it's a very easy way to tell.

Summit, screw dyno graphs. Look at the track times, and the way the cars drive. I realize these guys are correct: when I put my setup together, it wasn't even for best track times. It was for drivability. And I got it. But my times are disappointing too. Listen, when Bluecat gets his dyno working, we'll both work on figuring out what's up with our cars. Until then, get to the track this Friday, or be forever ridiculed!

BAD2000TA

iTrader: (6)

Patrick - you always beat me to it! I was just going to suggest that. It sounds like the car is off one tooth in timing. Probably enough not to throw a code or misfire, but run crappy. That's why I asked about the dyno. A graph would show your power and torque. Look at all the possible reasons before just assuming the cam "sucks".

Summit2345

iTrader: (2)

I positive the cam is not off a tooth because i had three people look at it to make sure. The chain is the original chain on the car, and the car only had 23000 miles when I did the cam change. The car now only has 26000 miles.

Summit2345

iTrader: (2)

I wish I could go to the track, but sadly I dont have a clutch that will hold up. Im not worried about the dyno I want to out run a stock LS1 at least.

sidewayz28

iTrader: (24)

yeah the T2 is a turd? get rid of it then plz.. thats just one less person with my cam.. go throw in a G5X3 and go feel the CRAZY difference!

LS1rulz

iTrader: (1)

So we'll put in a better clutch when we check out your setup. Heck, it could be a slipping clutch anyway for all we know. Heaven forbid you go to the track but just take it easy on the clutch and rear. That's what I'm doing since my auto swap won't be done yet.

GuitsBoy

iTrader: (4)

Two MAJOR issues...

HEADS and TUNE

Heads, especially the compression will turn a slow revving sluggish cam into a snappy powerhouse instantly. Compression is a HUGE requirement that only gains importance as you go bigger in duration.

The tune is equally important in terms of drivability and power production. Even if youve managed to get your fueling in line, theres a good chance youre running too little timing in the mid range areas. This will create a very sluggish feel on the street and could easily turn your cammed car into a turd. Not to mention that simply going by your BUTT DYNO, youre not likely anywhere close to producing max power. Do you even have a wideband on the car? Without one, your tune in no way should be considered comprehensive.

Youve managed to disregard just about every intelligent post in this thread. You started fights with pretty much all the top players who know this very subject. Youre throwing away valid comments simply because they dont coincide with your preconceived ideas.

Doing things your way is what go you here, driving a cammed car thats no faster than a bolt on car. Please listen to what these guys are saying, and listen with an open mind. They have years of experience under their belt. Theyre offering you their wisdom free of charge. Theyre trying to help drag your car out of the hole its in. You can be fairly certain, the Torquer 2 is not at fault.