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Opinions on this H/C combo

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Old May 28, 2007 | 09:55 PM
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Default Opinions on this H/C combo

Like the title says, what are your opinions on this H/C combo. Good or bad. Thanks

SLP Stage III LS6 Cylinder Heads

* CNC-ported and hand-blended chambers, ports, and bowls
* Swirl-polished 2.08"/1.60" stainless steel valves
* Milled 63.5cc combustion chambers
* High-performance, multi-angle valve job
* Heavy-duty dual 1.250" springs
* Titanium valve-spring retainers
* New, correct-size seats (not cut stock units)
* Heavy-duty, oversized chrome-moly valve locks
* Bronze guides


SLP Camshaft.

Camshaft Specs: Valve Lift Duration@.050
in: .576" 234º
ex: .571" 228º
Centerline - 112º Lobe Separation - 113º
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Old May 28, 2007 | 10:04 PM
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What is the price of those units?
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Old May 28, 2007 | 10:24 PM
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Originally Posted by BriancWS6
What is the price of those units?
$2400
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Old May 29, 2007 | 04:53 PM
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Originally Posted by 2000c-5
$2400
Spend your money elsewhere. I didnt spend THAT much on my AFRs milled to my specs with the upgraded springs.

If your planning on spending some money on some nice heads, I would suggest that you look into some AFR 205s or the TFS 215s, and a cam to match whichever one of those you choose, which won't be the SLP cam.

My .02
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Old May 29, 2007 | 05:10 PM
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I'd get a bigger CAM to match those heads and I woudn't buy one from SLP. I'd get a CAM only from either Comp cams or another company like them .. SLP is a bolt on company (IMO) .. I love their products but I dont think they have as much experience with cams/internal parts as a company like Comp/Lunati or someone like them does. Even though, I guess all the cams work the same and it probably wont make a difference. I'm just saying that for the money, I'd rather have a COMP Cam rather than an SLP. And like C-5 said -- I like the AFR heads.


good luck though .. if you do that setup, **with a good tune** -- you'll be happy
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Old May 29, 2007 | 05:15 PM
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Originally Posted by PhillyCamaro16
I'd get a bigger CAM to match those heads and I woudn't buy one from SLP. I'd get a CAM only from either Comp cams or another company like them .. SLP is a bolt on company (IMO) .. I love their products but I dont think they have as much experience with cams/internal parts as a company like Comp/Lunati or someone like them does. Even though, I guess all the cams work the same and it probably wont make a difference. I'm just saying that for the money, I'd rather have a COMP Cam rather than an SLP. And like C-5 said -- I like the AFR heads.


good luck though .. if you do that setup, **with a good tune** -- you'll be happy
Just a FYI, SLP doesn't grind their cams. Either comp or cam-motion does, and I am about 90% sure it is Comp.
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Old May 29, 2007 | 05:26 PM
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These are AFR heads. It includes the cam, oil pump, install kit, etc

Per their website:

We teamed up with AFR to bring you these street/strip heads and matched them with one of our high performance LS1/LS2/LS6 cams for an even better deal. They flow enough air (up to 320 CFM intake) to work with all LS1, LS2 or LS6 small blocks as large as 427 cubic inches, down to a well-built 346. The secret to the high flow numbers is CNC porting and a newly-designed combustion chamber with a double quench pad area.
Another reason we picked these heads is the rugged design that can live on top of a high-power engine. Don�t worry if you use nitrous or a blower because AFR�s 3/4 inch-thick deck is standard, along with reinforced rocker stud bosses, thick-wall runners and interlocking ductile iron valve seats. To maximize performance, we include double springs (.600 inch max lift) and titanium retainers.
To really get the full potential of these heads we matched them to our most aggressive cam for engines in the 346 CID/5.7L range.
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Old May 29, 2007 | 05:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Stang's Bane
Just a FYI, SLP doesn't grind their cams. Either comp or cam-motion does, and I am about 90% sure it is Comp.


.. Well I guess that supports my opinion even more ..
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Old May 29, 2007 | 05:55 PM
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Well, the reverse split cam isnt optimal for the AFR heads. Also, the springs I have are good to .650 lift, not .600, so the ones they are referring to would be the standard springs.

What are your goals for the car? Do you want an aggressive, lopey idle? What will you use the car for? A little more information and we'll be able to set you up with something that will work well.
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Old May 29, 2007 | 07:30 PM
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Originally Posted by BriancWS6
Well, the reverse split cam isnt optimal for the AFR heads. Also, the springs I have are good to .650 lift, not .600, so the ones they are referring to would be the standard springs.

What are your goals for the car? Do you want an aggressive, lopey idle? What will you use the car for? A little more information and we'll be able to set you up with something that will work well.
The car is street driven, no drag racing or autocross. I'm looking for something that makes good power, but is still streetable. I already have all the bolt ons and made 340 rwhp and 348 rwtq. LS6 intake is in the mail as we speak.

I've got HP Tuners, and while definitely not a professional tuner, I can tune for a cam. I just didn't want something that was going to be a pain in the *** to tune. If I had to chose between top end power and low end torque, I would lean toward torque. I think that would be more usable on an everyday basis.

Last edited by 2000c-5; May 29, 2007 at 07:41 PM.
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Old May 29, 2007 | 10:00 PM
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based on that info I would say get a cam like a 224/224 .581 .581 or something around that size. It'll give you nice lopeyness and I would D/D it. And I dont think you need all this head work. Just CNC machine your stock ones and you will be well over 400 horse.


Good luck.


BTW, really with the street ability of any cam -- the tune is the most important factor and what you are willing to drive/tolerate with
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Old May 29, 2007 | 10:51 PM
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If your liking the sound of a 224ish cam, the Mamo cam, at 224/228 114 is a good choice, and has been proven to be a good setup when matched with the AFRs. It would be a better choice than the single pattern 224. Tony ran the 224/228 in his personal car for a while. There's tons of great results with that combo. My cam is a step above that at 228-230, and is also on a 114. You definately don't have to be a great tuner to dial my cam in, it drove about the same as it does now on the bolt-on tune.

There are several guys tryn some tighter lsa cams, to gain more low-mid torque, but they arent as easy to dial in, as some have had a fair amount of issues regarding this.

You definately want to mill the heads and use a .040 gasket to get a tighter quench and a bump in compression. I am running my AFRs milled .024 to 62cc with the Cometic .040s, which results in a static CR of 11.34-1. I am also running 93 pump gas and have never had an issue with detonation.
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Old May 29, 2007 | 11:02 PM
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I would not go with a 2.08 valve on a small motor,especialy street only.
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Old May 30, 2007 | 09:15 PM
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Originally Posted by NHRAFORMULA00
I would not go with a 2.08 valve on a small motor,especialy street only.
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Old May 30, 2007 | 09:38 PM
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Originally Posted by BriancWS6
You definately don't have to be a great tuner to dial my cam in, it drove about the same as it does now on the bolt-on tune.
Good to know.

Originally Posted by BriancWS6
There are several guys tryn some tighter lsa cams, to gain more low-mid torque, but they arent as easy to dial in, as some have had a fair amount of issues regarding this.
Kind of sounds like I might need to be careful going with a cam designed more for low end torque.


Originally Posted by BriancWS6
You definately want to mill the heads and use a .040 gasket to get a tighter quench and a bump in compression. I am running my AFRs milled .024 to 62cc with the Cometic .040s, which results in a static CR of 11.34-1. I am also running 93 pump gas and have never had an issue with detonation.
These heads are milled .046.

The reason I was asking such specific questions about these heads is, they were for sale in Ebay. He had the heads, cam, timing chain, hi volume oil pump, shortened pushrods and install kit (gaskets, etc). He wanted $2450 with a starting bid of $1900. In a 5 day auction, nobody had bid on it and I was just curious why, if there was something wrong with the combo. When I went to check on it, there was only 3 seconds left and I missed out on it. Some guy put in a $1900 bid with about 5 minutes left and won it.

I'm still in the market. Now I can make my own choice. Thanks for all the advice, I'm using this thread to make a decision.
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Old May 30, 2007 | 09:56 PM
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Originally Posted by 2000c-5
These heads are milled .046.


Be VERY grateful you didnt win those heads! That's waaay too much material removed, and will definately hinder flow, not to mention substantially reduce P-V clearance.
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