Head/Cam Swap problems!
Head/Cam Swap problems! I've got the top end completely removed along with the radiator, water pump, and lifters. I'm also getting the transmission rebuilt so thats gone and the clutch and flywheel are removed. Now, the problem. I managed to break loose the cank pulley bolt, but, I can't get the pulley off. I bent the screw bolt on the 2 ton pulley puller and decided to buy the 5 ton pulley puller. I still can't get the crank pulley off! Any thoughts? 
So are you saying that this is normal? I think another reason why I can't get it is because I can't get the crankshaft to stop rotating when the pulley puller gets tight. It is PITA!
Try using an impact gun on it. With no trans to put in gear no flywheel to lock up the engine will just spin. With the heads off it will just spin that much easier. Get a 1/2" impact it will just zip off.But how did you break the puller? and it's hard to grab the pulley on the outside try to grab it on the inside.
I've already got the bolt off or unscrewed from the crank. I just can't get the pulley off. I used a pulley puller that grabs the inside of the crank pulley (not the outside). The pulley puller screw bolt bent when tightening it down to pull the crank pulley off.
I just used a 2 arm pully puller from autozone. The 3 arm puller was too hard to get to stay on since I only have 2 arms myself 
I was also having problems with the 2 arm puller until I realized that the end of the big screw was messed up. The tip used to go to a point, but it had rounded off and was making the whole thing unalign itself when I tightened it down. I sharpened the tip of the bolt back to a point and it worked just fine again.
Hope this helps someone.
I was also having problems with the 2 arm puller until I realized that the end of the big screw was messed up. The tip used to go to a point, but it had rounded off and was making the whole thing unalign itself when I tightened it down. I sharpened the tip of the bolt back to a point and it worked just fine again. Hope this helps someone.
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If your puller rod is bending you're doing something wrong. I use a BIG allen head cap screw in the crank bolt hole with a couple of large flat washers that are just slightly smaller than the O.D. of the crank. Put the allen screw in the bolt hole with the flat washers. Install the puller making sure the puller rod goes into the hex recess of the allen screw. This forces the puller rod to be self-centering. It can't walk regardless of whether the rod tip is pointed or round. I use a chain wrench to hold the crank pulley as I tighten down on the puller rod. As you tighten down on the puller rod the tip of the puller rod bucks up against the allen screw and the jaws grab the pulley and walk it off. It's a slow process, but just apply steady pressure and it will come off. If you have to apply excess force STOP before the puller rod begins to bend because something is wrong. I use a Posi-Lock 3 leg puller. They're the best. They're not cheap, but once you use one you won't want to go anywhere near on of the cheap ones again. Posi-Lock uses a collar on the legs that keeps the legs in place while you're installing the puller. You hold the Posi-Lock body with one hand and turn the puller rod with the other. With the cheaper ones you need at least 5 hands to install the puller becase the legs are flopping all over the place while you're trying to put it on. Posi-Lock turns a two man job into a one man job which is what it's supposed to be.
Okay, so I went back to Autozone and barrowed the Posi Lock Pulley Puller and another different puller. The Posi Lock Puller broke like the 2 ton 3 jaw pulley puller and the other one did not fit. So, here I am still trying to figure out why the hell I can't the damn crank pulley off!
I'm amazed AutoZone had a Posi-Lock to lend out. I'm even more amazed you were able to break one of the legs on a Posi-Lock. I've never heard of that because Posi-Lock is the strongest puller I know of. Let's get one thing perfectly clear. If you get anywhere near the torque required to break one of the legs on a Posi-Lock and the pulley isn't moving by that time you're doing something WRONG. You should have already stopped well before this point, but I told you that in my last post. The pulley is an interference fit. The crank is not normally keyed except in FI applications. The pulley is only there to spin the parasitic devices like water pump, power steering pump, alternator and A/C compressor clutch so it's not on there that tight. It's by no means loose, but it certainly isn't so tight that it requires breaking the leg on a Posi-Lock to get it off. That being said it doesn't require a lot of force to remove it. If your OEM bolt has been removed what are you bucking the puller rod up against? Are you using a BIG allen head cap screw with a couple of flat washers the have an O.D. that is slightly smaller than the O.D. of the crank? What method are you using to keep the crank from turning. You don't have to use a chain wrench. I use that tool because it works for me, but most people use something else. You have to make sure that what ever it is you're bucking the puller rodup against isn't pinched against the bore of the pulley or sitting on a step in the pulley. If it is the pulley isn't going to move which is what's happening to you. That's where I'd look. Look where your puller rod tip interfaces with the crank
Last edited by eallanboggs; Jun 9, 2007 at 04:34 PM.
Get the late model chrysler puller from autozone. I bent two screws on 3 jaws before getting it off in seconds with this.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...ghlight=puller
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...ghlight=puller
The Posi-Lock(expensive) can only pull from the outside whereas the Harbor Freight puller(cheap) can pull from both the outside as well as the inside. Removing the pulley from the inside makes installing the puller somewhat easier since the pulley helps to hold the legs in place while you tighening down on the puller rod. Even though you're using that pointed tip on the puller rod I still like to use a BIG allen head cap screw with a couple of large flat washers in the hole where the crank bolt came out. This way the puller rod(with or without pointed tip) bucks up against the allen screw instead of the first couple of threads in the crank snout. Both methods force the puller rod to be self-centering, but the allen screw insures that you won't damage the first couple of threads in the crank snout.
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From: Taxme, Ohio
The beginning of the threads is more than two inches from the end of the crankshaft snout. Not a chance to get anywhere near them unless you put something in the end of the crank that penetrates several inches inward - past the clearance hole that precedes the threaded portion. Anyone who has actually had the pulley off will know this. You can see from the picture of the removed bolt where the threads are in respect to the washer on the bolt. You can also put your pinky finger inside the crankshaft snout and verify this. There are NO THREADS near the end of the crankshaft snout to damage.
Thanks for all the help and suggestions guys! I contacted a local performance guy (Matt) who owns an LS1 performance shop. He brought over a Morosa(?) Pulley Puller. While he cranked the puller bolt I locked down the flywheel. Matt had the pulley off in a matter of seconds! Thanks Matt!
