Dragula

iTrader: (5)

I'm trying to learn as much as I can about installing Heads.

Does anyone have any good write ups? I already searched and read as much as I could. I also read through the install university install.

I have several general questions, I'm sure the answer to these questions will only lead to more.

If I work directly with the head manufacturer on my current set-up and where I want to get will they be able to set the springs up properly for me?

I think I have the general steps down. Are these correct and what am I missing?

1) Drain Fluids
2) Dissasemble top end
3) Install new lifters, arp studs, gasket, then heads
4) Use adjustable push rods, install rocker arms to #1 cylnder to find correct pushrod length
5) Remove Heads
6) Clay pistons, install heads, gasket, correct push rods and rotate engine 2 times to ensure both valve events
7) Remove heads to Check P to V clearance.
8) If O.K. reasemble, add fluids and pray

Let me know what I'm missing.

ez98ls1

iTrader: (2)

http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=2

z28poweredlt1

iTrader: (1)

Well in 8 steps you have it down easy, but it obviosly wont be that simple. =P
Make sure you have somehting to remove the old gaskets, I had to use brakeclean with a scotchbrite//razorblade, for a good 2 hours cleaning the 94k stock graphite gaskets, take your time, don't gouge the block as it's very easy to do so. Make sure to keep the lifter valley's blocked off so nothing gets inside when you're cleaning the block side. However if you have any questions while you're doing the install, just ask!

PREDATOR-Z

Do not use any metals to scrape (razor blade, putty knife or anything similar)
Do not use anything that will scratch the alum.
Use alum friendly solvents to do the job, not muscle (some elbow muscle, but you get what I mean).

z28poweredlt1

iTrader: (1)

You can use a razor blade if you're carefull, all up to you, but scotch brite and solvent wasn't able to take it all off, I had no resort in my case.

DVSWS6

iTrader: (17)

I used a plastic ice scraper and scotch-brite. The scraper even knocked all the carbon off the pistons. I dedicated and spent a whole day at prepping the block and cleaning the pistons though. Also alot of these setups have been thoroughly proven so unless you are going with something "new" or are pushing clearances with custom specs why waste time with claying?

Dragula

iTrader: (5)

I know there's a lot more steps in there. I wanted to get the major ones down and make sure there in the right order. I will still need to read up on torque sequences, connecting rod sizing, how to clay and measure etc.

Dragula

iTrader: (5)

This is helpfull!!

z28poweredlt1

iTrader: (1)

Yeah I spent about another hour or two cleaning the Pistons also, carb clean, razorblade, scotchbrite lol, took a while but it came out cleaaaaaaaaan.

Ls1 how to is your friend!

studderin

iTrader: (28)

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tee-boy

iTrader: (8)

I used razors on my SBC aluminum intake manifold gasket; didn't have any scratching. I was out of break clean so I resorted to the next best thing in the cabinet... EVERCLEAR!!!

davered00ss

iTrader: (4)

I just did it. Be careful with the razor blade.

Dip Stick

iTrader: (1)

Will we need new header gaskets? also fromt he sound of the install it seems more exact or safer i guess if you switch to the ARP head bolts.. vs that whole felt tip pen and 90 degree here and thereand 5 degree turning.

What did you guys use?
Also if the air and egr or whatever are disabled from tuning is there any need to reconnect that stuff if it was left on?