15w40, good or bad option?
#4
LSX Mechanic
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Not a bad idea at all. Especially if you've over 50K miles. I recommend AT LEAST 10w30 to anyone after break-in periond on LS1's. They do not like thin oil for very long. After 50K, 15w40 would be just fine. If you're under that, just stick with 10w30 or 10w40 until then.
josh
josh
#5
TECH Senior Member
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15w40s are generally "fleet oils" which means they are dual purpose gas/diesel oils. Often they don't have the necessary antiwear additives for hard driven cars.
Plus the viscosity at 40c is pretty high usually, so you'll get more engine wear when you first start your car.
If you need a thicker oil, go with 10w40 (Redline or Amsoil preferrably, but Mobil 1 0w40 is also a pretty good choice)
Plus the viscosity at 40c is pretty high usually, so you'll get more engine wear when you first start your car.
If you need a thicker oil, go with 10w40 (Redline or Amsoil preferrably, but Mobil 1 0w40 is also a pretty good choice)
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#8
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I've been running Neo-Synthetic racing oil in the 0w-5 weight range, and I haven't had any problems. No oil consumption problems,etc. The factory owner's manual specifies using 5w30. I don't understand why you guys think you need to run these ridiculously heavy viscocity oils.
Last edited by sawedoff; 03-15-2005 at 01:39 PM.
#9
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Right now I am using 15w-50 oil, and have been since I bought the car new. Should I go back to factory specs? I am reving the car to 6600 rpms does that matter at all?
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#10
TECH Senior Member
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Patman - How does engine RPM and horsepower effect engine oil selection?
Higher horsepower engines need an oil that is more durable for sure, one that won't shear back under stress, which is why I recommend Redline and Amsoil for very hard driven and higher horsepower cars. But what Sawedoff said is correct, the thicker oils are not necessary for these engines, those 50wt oils will just rob you of power and create unneccessary heat. The ideal viscosity is found through oil analysis, something I highly recommend people start doing if they are curious about how their oil is performing. Otherwise it's all just speculation.
#11
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Right now I am using 15w-50 oil, and have been since I bought the car new. Should I go back to factory specs? I am reving the car to 6600 rpms does that matter at all?
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#12
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15w40s are generally "fleet oils" which means they are dual purpose gas/diesel oils. Often they don't have the necessary antiwear additives for hard driven cars.
Plus the viscosity at 40c is pretty high usually, so you'll get more engine wear when you first start your car.
If you need a thicker oil, go with 10w40 (Redline or Amsoil preferrably, but Mobil 1 0w40 is also a pretty good choice)
Plus the viscosity at 40c is pretty high usually, so you'll get more engine wear when you first start your car.
If you need a thicker oil, go with 10w40 (Redline or Amsoil preferrably, but Mobil 1 0w40 is also a pretty good choice)
#13
TECH Senior Member
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If you can get oil in a range of 5w-20, take it.
#14
TECH Senior Member
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Patman post that URL to that site that you use.
Here it is:
http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php
#16
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I saw an oil that was not full synthetic 5w-20. Will that be good?
#18
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I'm using Mobile 1 10w-30 right now but I just picked up 4 Gal. of Delvac 1300 Super 15w-40. Got it at a discount store called Sams Club. $1.35 a quart. It passes every spec there is. It's a Mobile product. They e mailed me about it, passes Japanese valve train, any diesel, any gas motor. I'm goin to try it this summer and go back to the syn in winter.
#19
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Where do you find the HTHS #? On the bottle?
#20
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I'm using Mobile 1 10w-30 right now but I just picked up 4 Gal. of Delvac 1300 Super 15w-40. Got it at a discount store called Sams Club. $1.35 a quart. It passes every spec there is. It's a Mobile product. They e mailed me about it, passes Japanese valve train, any diesel, any gas motor. I'm goin to try it this summer and go back to the syn in winter.