ARP lube or threadsealer for head bolts?
#3
The only thing that worries me without running a threadsealer is these headbolts run through coolant. My buddy just used the ARP threadsealer on his headstuds (on a small block 350, not LS1) and everyone of them on the outside of the head leaks coolant. The ARP threadsealer is weird because it does not harden. On his sheet from ARP it said to run the threadsealer on any bolt that runs through the coolant and use the assembly lube on the rest. He did what they said and it still leaks out of the bolts. however, we think the only ones that leak are the headstuds that are on the outside of the head (there is no milky oil so we do not think these are leaking. I just want to make sure the threads are sealed so the coolant can't leak out of the threads on the bolts. I am at a loss.
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68NovaX (08-29-2021)
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68NovaX (08-29-2021)
#11
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Originally Posted by ArcticZ28
Use moly Lube and torque to spec, wait an hour, recheck torque, then let it sit overnight and recheck again. This is how I've done it and never had a problem (assuming the deck surface was clean and you don't have a mating surface problem with the head gaskets).
This is how I have done it, on numerous turbo applications with MLS headgaskets and have never had a problem. But definately let it sit over night and recheck the torque.. most of the ones I have done go another pound or two the next day.
#12
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Originally Posted by cals400ex
hmmm....thats good to know. I thought the head bolts ran through the water jackets. i guess there was just enough coolant in the head yet when i pulled them out to get coolant on all of the headbolts.
Which is why the holes need to be bone dry when you re-assemble. If you didn't get out all the coolant, stop and remove to do so otherwise you may crack your block.
Last edited by vettenuts; 07-21-2007 at 03:55 PM.
#15
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cept for the back 2 on the passenger side. Gotta pull those with the head.
Next time I do a head swap I'm pulling a freeze plug in the block. All the coolant drains out and when I pull the heads, I have no coolant to go everywhere.
Next time I do a head swap I'm pulling a freeze plug in the block. All the coolant drains out and when I pull the heads, I have no coolant to go everywhere.
#16
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I have studs and will be doing another head swap soon. I can't get the heads off with all the studs in place so I plan to pump the block out from the front an then lift the heads and let them drain, set them back down then pull the studs. Hopefully this will keep the holes dry.
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Originally Posted by orangeapeel
All you need to do is hook a shop vac up to the block and suck it dry before removing the head. It will keep the water jackets from flowing over into the bolt holes.
I used a flexible drinking straw and my air compressor to blow my bolt holes out. Works great other than blowing coolant all over the place.
#19
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Originally Posted by DaveX
That's a good idea.
I used a flexible drinking straw and my air compressor to blow mine out. Works great other than blowing coolant all over the place.
I used a flexible drinking straw and my air compressor to blow mine out. Works great other than blowing coolant all over the place.