cals400ex

iTrader: (27)

I will be installing new ARP head bolts and I am not sure if I should use the ARP assembly lube or the ARP thread sealer on the headbolts? Both contain moly. I have both, I am just not sure which one to use.

DrkPhx

iTrader: (15)

Use the ARP moly lube for the most accurate torque reading. That is what the ARP tech recommended when I called them before I installed them.

cals400ex

iTrader: (27)

The only thing that worries me without running a threadsealer is these headbolts run through coolant. My buddy just used the ARP threadsealer on his headstuds (on a small block 350, not LS1) and everyone of them on the outside of the head leaks coolant. The ARP threadsealer is weird because it does not harden. On his sheet from ARP it said to run the threadsealer on any bolt that runs through the coolant and use the assembly lube on the rest. He did what they said and it still leaks out of the bolts. however, we think the only ones that leak are the headstuds that are on the outside of the head (there is no milky oil so we do not think these are leaking. I just want to make sure the threads are sealed so the coolant can't leak out of the threads on the bolts. I am at a loss.

shooter

iTrader: (2)

+1 for the ARP moly lube

cals400ex

iTrader: (27)

So you don't think it will leak coolant out of the head bolt threads? I have even thought about using regular thread sealer. I just don't want to have to take this thing back apart.

Krab

iTrader: (28)

I used the moly lube for my ARP head studs. No coolant leaking issues thus far.

2xLS1

iTrader: (25)

LS1 headbolts don't run through water jackets. All the bolt holes are dry.

Xtnct00WS6

iTrader: (8)

Use the Moly Lube.

ArcticZ28

iTrader: (14)

Use moly Lube and torque to spec, wait an hour, recheck torque, then let it sit overnight and recheck again. This is how I've done it and never had a problem (assuming the deck surface was clean and you don't have a mating surface problem with the head gaskets).

cals400ex

iTrader: (27)

hmmm....thats good to know. I thought the head bolts ran through the water jackets. i guess there was just enough coolant in the head yet when i pulled them out to get coolant on all of the headbolts.

Beau B

iTrader: (6)

This is how I have done it, on numerous turbo applications with MLS headgaskets and have never had a problem. But definately let it sit over night and recheck the torque.. most of the ones I have done go another pound or two the next day.

vettenuts

iTrader: (4)

Which is why the holes need to be bone dry when you re-assemble. If you didn't get out all the coolant, stop and remove to do so otherwise you may crack your block.

cals400ex

iTrader: (27)

the holes are dry. i already dried them with paper towels. it was quite a fun job. lol

ArcticZ28

iTrader: (14)

That's why it's head studs FTMFW! Only have to dry them holes out once evarrrr!

3.4camaro

iTrader: (1)

cept for the back 2 on the passenger side. Gotta pull those with the head.

Next time I do a head swap I'm pulling a freeze plug in the block. All the coolant drains out and when I pull the heads, I have no coolant to go everywhere.

vettenuts

iTrader: (4)

I have studs and will be doing another head swap soon. I can't get the heads off with all the studs in place so I plan to pump the block out from the front an then lift the heads and let them drain, set them back down then pull the studs. Hopefully this will keep the holes dry.

orangeapeel

iTrader: (18)

All you need to do is hook a shop vac up to the block and suck it dry before removing the head. It will keep the water jackets from flowing over into the bolt holes.

DaveX

That's a good idea.

I used a flexible drinking straw and my air compressor to blow my bolt holes out. Works great other than blowing coolant all over the place.

orangeapeel

iTrader: (18)

That is what I did several times. It does work better than most. Paper towels scare me!