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DOT to DOT occurs between which two 4 stroke cycles?

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Old Aug 10, 2007 | 12:42 PM
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Default DOT to DOT occurs between which two 4 stroke cycles?

It appers DOT to DOT occurs between the Ex and In strokes(during valve overlap) instead of at TDC between the Compression and Combustion strokes. I was assuming DOT to DOT was when #1 was at TDC between the Compression and Combustion strokes allowing me to tighten the rocker bolts of both the intake and exhaust valves at the same time since both valves would be on their backs. I'm installing some Scorpions and figured I could save a few minutes time if I tightened both rocker bolts at the same time without spinning the crank in between. Does anyone know the position of the DOTS(crank and cam) when each cylinder is at TDC between the Compression and Combustion strokes which would allow me to tighten BOTH rocker bolts at the same time without having to spin the crank in between?
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Old Aug 10, 2007 | 02:46 PM
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Originally Posted by eallanboggs
It appers DOT to DOT occurs between the Ex and In strokes(during valve overlap) instead of at TDC between the Compression and Combustion strokes. I was assuming DOT to DOT was when #1 was at TDC between the Compression and Combustion strokes allowing me to tighten the rocker bolts of both the intake and exhaust valves at the same time since both valves would be on their backs. I'm installing some Scorpions and figured I could save a few minutes time if I tightened both rocker bolts at the same time without spinning the crank in between. Does anyone know the position of the DOTS(crank and cam) when each cylinder is at TDC between the Compression and Combustion strokes which would allow me to tighten BOTH rocker bolts at the same time without having to spin the crank in between?
If you have the right manual it tells you to start at 1 point, tighten half the rockers, spin the crank once then tighten the rest, it only takes about 10 minutes what are you trying to accomplish?
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Old Aug 10, 2007 | 03:13 PM
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I adjust one cylinder at a time, buy turning the engine until the exhaust valve begins to (open), stop and adjust the intake valve, then turn the engine until the intake valve fully opens and keep tuning till its (almost closes) ,stop and adjust the exhaust valve. Then go to the next cylinder.

You can read it here Crane Tech>>>>>http://www.cranecams.com/?show=faq&id=3
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Old Aug 10, 2007 | 03:21 PM
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Is this what you need? I would use piston position rather than the dots, I seem to remember the same thing when I did mine.

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Old Aug 10, 2007 | 05:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Randy WS6
I adjust one cylinder at a time, buy turning the engine until the exhaust valve begins to (open), stop and adjust the intake valve, then turn the engine until the intake valve fully opens and keep tuning till its (almost closes) ,stop and adjust the exhaust valve. Then go to the next cylinder.

You can read it here Crane Tech>>>>>http://www.cranecams.com/?show=faq&id=3

when i did it like that it seemed like the valvetrain noise really quieted down alot... makes me wonder how much noise is from too much valve lash.
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Old Aug 10, 2007 | 09:17 PM
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Having the correct valve lash is very important.
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Old Aug 10, 2007 | 09:26 PM
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Ya'll over complicate things. Bump the motor, one cyl at a time, til the intake valve closes, give it another slight bump, then both lifters are on the base circle. Adjust both, then go to next cyl and repeat.
When the intake valve closes, theres a considerable amount of crankshaft rotation while both valves are shut, therefore both lifters are on the base circle.
Damn rookies......lol
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Old Aug 11, 2007 | 08:04 AM
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Originally Posted by 2000TransAmWS6

when i did it like that it seemed like the valvetrain noise really quieted down alot... makes me wonder how much noise is from too much valve lash.

Being picky here, but our valvetrain is non-adjustable, so all we really have is a certain amount of preload on the lifters to shoot for, not lash. It doesn't matter how you tighten down our rocker arms (as long as you get the right torque) like it does in an SBC. Although I would think that tightening ours down when there is no load on them would give a more accurate torque reading.
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Old Aug 11, 2007 | 08:51 AM
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All I was trying to do was find out the clock postion of the "DOTS" when #1 is at TDC between the Compression and Combution strokes(not between the EX. and In. strokes as it is when the "DOTS" are lined up "DOT to DOT". If I knew this I could adjust(tighten to 22ft/lb.) 4 valves at a time starting with In. and Ex of #1 and #6. Turn the crank 90 degrees and do 4 more valves on #5 and #8. 90 degrees more and do #4 and #7 and finally 90 degrees more to finish with #2 and #3. This only requires the crank to be turned 4 times as opposed to 16 times if you do the valves one at a time. Of course the timing and rocker covers are removed during this process since your doing a cam or rocker swap. I made the false assumption that DOT to DOT was when the pistion is at TDC between the Compression and Combustion strokes(which it is not) which would allow me to hold that valves up with compressed air since I was also do a spring swap at the same time. Since DOT to DOT happens at valve overlap TDC the compressed air method is problematic. Initially the valves bleed air(since they are partially open during overlap) as you remove the old springs. You can pull the valves up manually against the valve seats to get the compressed air to hold the valves in position while the new springs are installed. Knowing where the "DOTS" are located when the piston is at TDC between the Compression and Combustion strokes would solve all these problems.
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Old Aug 11, 2007 | 02:41 PM
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From: Little Rhody
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I was surprised when I found this as well, I expected the dot to dot to also occur at TDC. Made it difficult to figure out where to pin the crank on my ATI damper as I was trying to get the 0 degree mark on the damper to align with TDC. As I remember, it was about 30 degrees clockwise from the dot to dot position, but that's from my feeble memory of two years ago at this point
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