*PICS* Gouge in #7 cylinder wall...need advice!
#1
*PICS* Gouge in #7 cylinder wall...need advice!
Everything looks fine on all the others expect on cylinder #7. There is a gouge a 1/2" long that I can't explain. It doesn't go to the top, but stops at the discolored part. It doesn't seem too bad and really doesn't look like a crack of any kind. Its maybe 1/64" deep I guess. I can catch it with my finger nails very easily. I'm not to thrilled about that. What do you think caused it and will it be okay? If it was the rings...wouldn't it be scratched all the way down or something?
Honing marks still there after 137K miles!
Honing marks still there after 137K miles!
#4
You guys sure about that? I'm almost 100% certain it didn't go all the way through. I can see how deep it is. It would be like if I took a screwdriver and scratched the crap out of the cylinder...thats not cracked, but a deep scatch aka gouge.
Last edited by HotWhipT/A; 09-17-2007 at 12:38 PM.
#5
I talked with the guys over at Pro Pros. They're local to me and do awesome work. They said that they have never seen a stock LS1 motor with a cracked cylinder. If it was cracked, i'd be leaking coolant. It matches perectly with where the rings stop and they said something about the rings expanding on decompression that could cause that by catching the sharpe edge of the ring. I should be okay and oil will fill it up, but I might lose a very small amount of commpression. I'll test that when the block is back together. It ran great before I pulled it!
#6
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Originally Posted by HotWhipT/A
I talked with the guys over at Pro Pros. They're local to me and do awesome work. They said that they have never seen a stock LS1 motor with a cracked cylinder. If it was cracked, i'd be leaking coolant. It matches perectly with where the rings stop and they said something about the rings expanding on decompression that could cause that by catching the sharpe edge of the ring. I should be okay and oil will fill it up, but I might lose a very small amount of commpression. I'll test that when the block is back together. It ran great before I pulled it!
Oil will fill it up eh?
Let us know how that works out for you.
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#8
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thats a crack brooo....
time for some darton 4.155 sleeves
you can tell just by characteristics of the line. it goes up and around the rim of the sleeve. its only going to get worse
time for some darton 4.155 sleeves
you can tell just by characteristics of the line. it goes up and around the rim of the sleeve. its only going to get worse
#9
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Originally Posted by Turbo LS1 SS
thats a crack brooo....
time for some darton 4.155 sleeves
you can tell just by characteristics of the line. it goes up and around the rim of the sleeve. its only going to get worse
time for some darton 4.155 sleeves
you can tell just by characteristics of the line. it goes up and around the rim of the sleeve. its only going to get worse
#10
Eh, couple guys have seen it in person and said its not a crack. It doesn't bother me enough to spend 5K on a new shortblock anyways. I am looking at my options though.
I searched a lil bit, but whats my shortblock worth? How about the complete heads (853's) For that matter, the entire engine minus sensors/brackets.
I searched a lil bit, but whats my shortblock worth? How about the complete heads (853's) For that matter, the entire engine minus sensors/brackets.
#11
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You need a new machine shop if they told you that...
Although it does look like a crack in the pics, it may well be a simple gouge. The engine will continue to run with a loss of compression. The life of that cylinder is probably shortened considerably. Plan on replacing the block when you have the means.
Although it does look like a crack in the pics, it may well be a simple gouge. The engine will continue to run with a loss of compression. The life of that cylinder is probably shortened considerably. Plan on replacing the block when you have the means.
#16
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That's a gouge that caused surface fatigue and cracking. didn't make it all the way through the wall but it will. You can see on the lower portion where it's starting to tear apart.
at the end of a crack you have stress risers where the material is under greater stresses(due to geometry, absence of material, distribution of loading, etc) causing crack propagation.
same principle applies to a cracked driveway that gets worse and worse
at the end of a crack you have stress risers where the material is under greater stresses(due to geometry, absence of material, distribution of loading, etc) causing crack propagation.
same principle applies to a cracked driveway that gets worse and worse
Last edited by Ceissus; 09-18-2007 at 08:51 PM.
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Yup. You can run it and chance it but I would not. Another option is to get it resleeved. Or find another block (Bare) and start looking for forged internals. Mahle come to mind on a budget build!
#18
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I have no doubt after seeing those that it's a crack. The second pic makes it look like it went all the way through. If it hasn't, it certainly will if you put it back together as is. I wouldn't even bother with that block again. Just trash it and get a used block or a new shortblock.
#19
Well the second pic in my last post is the SAME picture as the first one in this thread except that its a close up. It really looks like that first one in the last post! I can't help but laugh because its kinda funny because pics are nothing to the real thing. It isn't a real good situation, so i'm making the best of it.