oneBADDz

iTrader: (26)

You should stop talking. No really, you should seriously stop talking.

phildo

iTrader: (7)

Check for combustion in the coolant. I have had the same problem twice and both times there was a cracked head. My did the same as yours, got to operating temp really fast and then kept going. I have also seen this with blown head gaskets. (ie.combustion in the coolant)Only other cause would be a bad casting as others have suggested. Try doing the co2 test 1st but either way it sounds like the heads need to come off. Good luck and keep us posted.

tomulrich

iTrader: (2)

You cant just remove the t-stat without blocking the 1" hole in the pump....this is the bypass...........30% fluid will not be pumped through the motor............call Evans ...they will give you detailed info

Tom

RE AND CHERYL

iTrader: (31)

What he said. Your an idiot. Pulling the thermostat is not a cure for a car that runs hot. At best it might be a troubleshooting step, and one that doesn't work on many of todays car engines.

Re'

tuff

iTrader: (15)

I read some of the posts and i know the head gasket question was asked if they were installed right.But if someone doe's not know if there is a diffrents on the way they go they have a 50/50 chance.Might be only one is installed upside down and causing a water passage problem.I would take them off and see whats up.

DAVESS02

iTrader: (30)

If you're not able to get a hold of a pressure tester or check for exhaust gases in the coolant, then look at your gaskets for signs of carbon tracking between passages or cylinders. With the gaskets you're using it may be difficult to see, thats why a pressure test would be helpfull. No doubt you'll have a reputable machine shop pressure test the heads once they're off. I've personally had several issues with gasket sealing so I understand the frustration. Highly unlikely its a gasket issue, but for future reference and for others, couldnt you remove the water pump and check for the big head gasket opening through the WP passage?

Zitty'sZ

iTrader: (29)

I hope this helps you. I just installed new heads/cam in my car two weeks ago and I was having the same problem as you. I had the radiator cap off just like you, coolant seemed to be flowing well just like you but it was getting hot after about 5 minutes of idleing. I noticed after I would shut the engine down to let it cool , I would see air bubbles surface in the radiator even though I had good coolant flow. Each time I would re-start the car it would run a little longer without overheating. After about 4 or 5 times of repeating this it was running at the normal 200-210 range and so far everything is good. I was a little nervous at first like you because I thought I had all the air bled from the system, but it was obvious that I did not. Good luck!

Jpr5690

iTrader: (13)

Ok Im An Idiot It Fixed My Problem My Car Has Ran Great For 2 Yrs Now.. I Dont Think You Realise The Restriction A Thermostat Can Have On Coolant Low (alteast Ith A Sbc Thermostat (like Used With A Ewp)

Even On A Ls1 Pump The T-stat Is Inside Of A Housing That Can Be Seperated If You Have Bothered To Look It Is A Significant Restriction And It Is Why Many Race Cars Or Track Setups Dont Run T-stats


In 100deg Fl Weather My Car Runs Great... With A T-stat I Had Cooling Problems ...


You Do The Math

BOWTIE

OK, everything I could think of has already been suggested. I would like to make 2 points though: first, if the fans are running backwards, it would still overheat while driving down the road because the fans would be counteracting the natural flow of air (unlike if the fans were just not working at all); secondly, you need to either pressure check or do the other coolant test for exhaust gasses. If your exhaust seat were replaced it would be possible to have a crack underneath the seat allowing exhaust gasses to penetrate into the water jacket. If this is the case, you are just lucky you have not hydrolocked the motor yet. I would not leave the cap on tight after shutting it down until you have a better grasp of your problem, otherwise the pressure in the cooling system could push coolant out of any potential passage and into the motor. Good Luck.

Bo White

iTrader: (59)

The problem about not running a Tstat is that its there to regulate the water flow....a restriction. The Tstat keeps the coolant in the block long enough to heat up on startup for quicker warmups and then once warm it keeps the coolant in the radiator long enough to cool off- if its not there your just circulating hot water that gets hotter in most cases. And yes CO2, not O2 like I posted- I was typing fast and cant type to begin with lol.

PewterZ28

iTrader: (1)

Well I called my mechanic and he does not have access to a CO2 tester. I have to work from 9 to 3 today at a QDMA booth (my more important hobby...deer hunting). I doubt I will be able to find a shop that can pressure test and check for CO2 gases by end of work day.

If I don't pull the heads tonight, I'm going to miss at least two more weeks of racing and then that will basically be it. I've missed almost the entire season and the last day is mid October. I'm really scrambling to try to get my car running normal so I can get it to the drag strip. So I'm going to take the heads off tonight. I will call a few people today and see if I can find a shop that can pressure test & check for CO2 before I pull the heads. Either way, I'm taking the heads off tonight.

As for the fans, I haven't tried the towel thing yet but they certainly feel like they are blowing the right way. Also, they are tuned perfectly and they DO come on like they should. As for air pockets, well I guess it could be the trickiest case of air pockets ever in the world but I am 95% certain there is no more air in the system.

Give me a day or two and I'll post my findings.

Viper

iTrader: (6)

As mentioned, hoses are a cheap solution too. I also had my heater core go bad and caused overheating problems; on Leo's dyno no less when he still ran GMRSpeed in Ohio. Cheap part to replace but took several hours to do it. I think the CO test will tell you a lot before pulling the heads.

Jpr5690

iTrader: (13)

YEA I HEAR YA... BUT I TRIED IT AND ITS WORKING FOR ME.. I DUNNO, MABYE ILL LOOK INTO A BETTER RADIATOR & FANS.. THE CAR DOSENT OVER HEAT BUT IM NOT LIKEING 210-220 TEMPS EITHER REMVING THE T-STAT DEFINATELY COOLED OFF MY MOTOR- JUST LIIKE REMOVING THE STOCK TRANNY COOLER HELPED COOL THE TRANNY (REPLACED IT WITH 2 A AFTERMARKET ONES)(RADIATOR TRANNY COOLER ACTUALLY HEATS THE FLUID IF YOUR IN THE 200+ COOLANT RANGE)

MABYE UP NORTH A T-STAT IS NEEDED BUT THE COLDEST MY CAR GETS ONCE HEATED UP IN 160 ISH (HWY CRUSE COLD WINTER DAY)
DURING THE SUMMER (95% OF THE TIME HERE) IT STILL HOVERS JUST BELOW 200 AND IT ONLY TAKES ABOUT 3-5 MIN FOR IT TO REACH OPPERSTING TEMPS

ITS NOT PERFICT BUT DEFINATELY BETTER...

98Camarod

iTrader: (43)

After reading all of this, my guess is something is cracked and allows the combustion gases to mix with the coolant. I had this same problem with a 454, i spent over 1,000 dollars on upgrading the cooling system. At first it would heat up to 230-240, not a good thing. So I bought the BeCool radiator and bought the biggest electric fans I could find. Then it sat right below 220. I swapped the heads out and it ran at 180 all day long. BeCool says that the air pockets can be heated up to very high temperatures and cause overheating and potential disaster. I hope that helps, if you are taking those heads off, I wouldnt put them back on until you are positive that they are not cracked.

Jeff@TotalPerformanceEng

iTrader: (6)

Thats how I originally tested my fans (just by feel)..
The problems I was having, was 100% exactly the same problems you are having. It had to be the most frustrating thing I ever had to fix. The cooling system is sooooo fuking simple. But can be soooo hard..

Before you yank the heads, take a piece of paper and physically test your fan direction. I was CERTAIN that they were the right direction. But I ended up being wrong..

Bo White

iTrader: (59)

It worked for one of my cars too, I had a 86 IROC back 15 years ago or better with a carbed 327 in it that just refused to stay under 200 degrees. Tried everything and one day I pulled the Tstat out to just check the flow of coolant through the engine and I let it run......and run....and run and it didnt get as high as with a 180 Tstat so I left it out. Worked for me too that one time. Ive recommended it a few times since then and it never worked for anyone else because of my explaination, when someone else would try it it would just get hotter and hotter. I havent had any cooling issues with any other car Ive had so Ive never had a reason to pull the Tstat. That is why in my last post I said in "most cases".

Billiumss

iTrader: (11)

Either the heads are shot and/or the fans aren't going in the right direction.

Hope you get it fixed soon...

phildo

iTrader: (7)

Pulling the stat is just a bandaid for the real problem. You have a restriction somewhere else that is slowing the coolant flow down enough to seem somewhat normal when the stat is out. I am glad you have had a cheap fix but your real problem is still there.

PewterZ28

iTrader: (1)

Update: I put a sheet of paper on the radiator and it sucked onto the radiator. I checked both fans. They are blowing the right way...towards the engine.

I couldn't get to a shop today to check pressure and CO2 so I'm not taking the heads off just yet.

I went for another drive and logged some more data. I didn't let the car sit and idle, I just started her up and started driving. The car gets up to 175* range in three or four minutes and then climbs about 2 or 3 degrees every minute until it reaches a peak of 219*. My driving speeds were usually around 45 but I did drive a few miles on the highway going about 65. Some of the street driving was stop and go. At stop lights the car was cooling down about 2 degrees but no more. When I got into my subdivision I noticed it took less than 1 minute for the temps to drop from 217 to 214. So when I got home I came to a stop and just let the car idle to see what it would do. The temps would drop about 3 or 4 degrees every minute. After approx 8 to 12 minutes the coolant temp got all the way down to 183.

So it appears it is currently NOT overheating at idle. I don't know if this changes anything. I assume it could still be the heads. I have a csv file I can email if anyone cares to look at it.

Sharpe

iTrader: (7)

Wow. God only knows.

You changed the T-stat three times or just two? I ask because I had to change one three times over the course of two years of trying to figure out the problem. Always overheated. Third one worked. Yeah, i was pissed.

Pull one out of a working car. People win the lotto all the time. People get struck by lightning. What are the chances? What are the chances you got two bad T-stats in a row? Happened to me, man. Your car doesn't overheat at idle but does under load.

Does it cool off a bit with the heater on? Sorry if that's been answered.

Good luck, man.