fbodyforever

iTrader: (10)

if you flycut .80 on the intake side, that will be enough for the Vindicator. It should put you at about .110 PTV clearance, on the intake side, anything 0.100 and over is considered suitable for the intake valve as long as you're not spinning it up to 8000 or nothing like that. Vengeance Racing told me that it would be adviable to take about .050 out of the exhaust valve area too.

hammertime

iTrader: (1)

I don't know that I would just cut .080 out of each piston. If you are set on the G5X3, get it and check the clearance. If you want to make sure you have room to clear the Vindicator 240/244 cam down the road, use an adjustable timing set and degree the cam 4 degrees advanced, then check the clearance again.

The Intake Valve opening at .050 point is only 3 degrees tighter on the Vindicator than the X3, so the extra degree should give you a safe margin of error. Otherwise, the Exhaust Valve closing at .050 point is one degree different. These are the only points where piston to valve clearance should be a concern. All numbers derived from 112 LSA, 108 ICL for both cams.

Also, I'm not sure I would trust clay over a checking spring and a dial indicator. Much more accurate for giving the exact clearance. Some clays have proven elastic, and indicate more clearance than actually exists. With that monster, you want to be safe!

00Formula00

iTrader: (6)

Well that's the thing, I am very set on an LGM cam, I plan on talking to Lou today to ask his opinions about the G5X4... I think it was on this thread that someone with 59cc dart 205, which are really similar to that of the AFR's and he was told by Lou to cut .080 out on the intake...

However, this is it once this cam is in, that's it I won't be changing the cam again....

00Formula00

iTrader: (6)

Hey guys,

I just talked to Zach at MTI, and he said he had someone with my exact set up with their V1 cam 230/232 .591/.595 111lsa hit 476rwhp/445 rwtq!

Do you think the X cams would make better or worse power? That MTI V1 sounds like it makes nice power

Louie83

iTrader: (3)

A good cam for sure, but you can't expect to get the exact same numbers as another car even with similar mods.

I still think it would be cool to go with the Vindicator since there have been all of these 480-500rwhp results with it combined with a ported 90/90 and TFS 215's. It would be interesting to see if the Vindicator likes the AFR's as much as the TFS heads.

N4cer

iTrader: (11)

Don't shoot for dyno numbers. Shoot for track times. Don't be fast and furious.

waterbug1999

iTrader: (3)

I think he said he has a 3500 stalled auto, dont think you will get those numbers thru an A4. I dynoed 427 with an unlocked 4K stall.

00Formula00

iTrader: (6)

Ya, to be honest I'm not concerned to much about max hp/tq...

I have it decided I am going with a 3000 stall with the G5X3 on a 112, I dont do much drag so I dont need a monster stall... I'll probably be back around with questions about flycutting...

jegten

iTrader: (22)

as for the flycutting, i had a 228/232 cam, and the heads are the 5.3 stg 2.5 at 62cc.
i went with a 236/240 cam, and milled the heads more to 59cc.

i had to flycut, after being dicked around for three weeks by the guy who was supposed to flycut the pistons for me, i got pissed and bought the damn shaft for the LSx and renter the carbide cutter. and did it myself!!

honestly, one of the easiest things i have done to my car!

i only had to fllycut .050".

i am extremely happy i went with the bigger cam, milled the heads to 59cc, and flycut the pistons, very happy.

so, fwiw, i will say just do it and get the cam you really want. you will be happy at the end, as i am.

hope this helps, bro, and good luck.

00Formula00

iTrader: (6)

Thanks for that, it's nice to hear that it was easy for you! How is the measuring, that and dropping the engine/trans is all I'm worried about...

waterbug1999

iTrader: (3)

If you are going to pull the block/trans out.. It'll be a piece of cake then. I did mine in the car in about a half a day. Just keep checkin the depth and puttin/pullin the dummy head off/on..

I put duct tape over the piston I was doing to keep shaving from going down the cylinder wall. So, after you do a little cutting, pull the head off, leave the old gasket on, vacum up the filings and measure and repeat till you get the the depth you are looking for.

00Formula00

iTrader: (6)

Did you use the method with the collar on the cutter in order to stop the cutter at the right depth, or did you just cut and check over and over??

N4cer

iTrader: (11)

Collar here.

00Formula00

iTrader: (6)

Does the collar come if you rent? It seems like it would be the easiest way

waterbug1999

iTrader: (3)

I cut and checked.. I rented the LGM cutting head, it did not come with it.

00Formula00

iTrader: (6)

were all of your cut exactly the same?

Thimble

iTrader: (2)

I didn't use the collar....found it it to be more of a PITA than just cutting and checking.

Once you get the first one cut to your desired depth, you can do the rest pretty much by eye. Since you're cutting into the piston at an angle, you're only cutting a half-moon shape, and because of that, if the width of the cut looks the same as the rest, so is the depth.

You'll figure out these sorts of tricks by the time you get to the third of fourth piston.

Flycutting is no big deal, I kinda enjoyed doing it.

00Formula00

iTrader: (6)

Right on, so this isn't as difficult as it seems to me (I've obviously never done it)

waterbug1999

iTrader: (3)

I was shooting for .080"... All the cuts were +/- .003" or so of each other. Thats the best I could get them with a hand held dial micrometer.

Thimble

iTrader: (2)

Not difficult at all. Just take your time on the first cut, get a feel for how quickly the cutter removes the material, check depth of cut often. Once you get that one done, and you've done a mock-up and checked to insure adequate p/v clearance, the rest of the pistons get progressively easier..

You might spend an hour on the first one..but by the time you're on #8, you'll find it took only a few minutes to do.

And, paying attention to cleanliness goes without saying. A small shop vac with some miniature (pencil sized) tip attachments works great for removing all the dust and chips after each cut, something you need to do before spinning the motor and moving onto the next piston. You want to avoid dragging any debris back down into the cylinders.