Ok sounds good, I can only imagine the fun metal shavings in the cylinder would bring...

What is the best (most accurate) tool to measure depth, dial micrometer? .003 is pretty precise...

 

You can get a micrometer.. On the end it can tell you the depth. I actually checked 10 times or so and kind of took an average.

The metal shavings, you can keep that from gettin down the cylinder walls, and everywhere else for that matter, if you tape off the block as the previous link showed ya. I did one at a time but I do see why taping it completely off would be a better idea.
The dummy head will be pretty dirty. I actually sprayed it down pretty good before I used it.

 

ok cool, i think it's TIME TO ORDER BABY!!!

 

So what factored into your cam choice? Just wanted something big? PatrickG know his ****. Why not have Mamo spec a cam for you? Their his heads, he knows them best. You dont need to flycut to be a man. Its just a fad, dont get caught up the bullshit around here. Cam flavors change on here daily. Decide what you want and then have a cam speced to meet those goals. Your giving up bottom end by going bigger. Power at 1800 rpms or power at 3000 is what your looking at.

 

DCR also plays into overall powerband, maximizing a setup. But you know that. Just pointing out the obvious.

 

Search under fly cutting or under my name and you will find some good pics and info. I did it a few years back.

 

My thoughts exactly.

 

I bought the heads off someone who had just had they milled by LG and he said the they were designed to be run with the X3 or the X4 so I have really been wanting to run either of those. But when I found out that there might be PV issues I really couldn't take that chance. This is mine and my dad's project car and I just had the trans. toast on me as well as some belt problems... So he is pissed that everything isn't running right right now, if I had bent valves now I'd be dead so this way I figure I can have a bigger cam but not one of those pointless cam's where you have nothing until 5000 rpm and not run any chances of bending valves...... (sorry for the essay)

Thanks JR i'll take a look at you stuff right now...

 

Hey JR you still have those tools?

 

sorry for the late response, 00Formula00,

the shaft i bought came with the stopper. i used a filler gauge to get the .050" between the stopper and the base where it would stop on the head.
got a used head, and had the intake valves removed. also, for lack of space, i bought a right angle drill to do the job.
the hardest part was getting the right gap with the filler gauge. so, not hard.
i taped, as mentioned above, did not use a gasket, just used two bolts across the piston i was doing, and a vacuum to clean the shavings.
though i taped, i removed the tape on the upper half of the piston where the cutter was going to hit.

no need to push hard, just get the drill going, and softly let it hit the piston, and repeat, softly until it spins freely, meaning it has reached the gapped depth.

have fun with it.

 

Which is where the power the will be when he puts the 3500 stall in.. He will have plenty of power.. On my set up, the HP flatens out at 6600 RPM so you dont have to spin the X3 cam to the moon. And from what LGM has told me, the 112 lsa will actually peak/flatten out a little sooner then the 114 will (which is what mine is).

 

Yep, the X3 on a 112 definitely falls off faster than the X3 on a 114. It's been proven time and again on local cars.

 

Thanks for all the help guys, much appreciated...

I'm really excited to get this all done, only thing I have left to do is order all the parts and find out where I am going to rent the tools from, I really want to find one with the stopper/collar I just want to be sure and try to be totally accurate about everything...