Solid Roller Guys Come Inside
Solid Roller Guys Come Inside What does it take to convert an LS1 motor from a hydraulic cam to a solid roller setup? What parts are need besides the cam, is there any machine work to the block required?
Is it also the same thing on the LQ4 truck block? I cant afford to order a resleeved block so if I decide to go with a big cube motor, so I would be using the LQ4 truck block instead.
Is it also the same thing on the LQ4 truck block? I cant afford to order a resleeved block so if I decide to go with a big cube motor, so I would be using the LQ4 truck block instead.
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Re: Solid Roller Guys Come Inside
thats it???
Re: Solid Roller Guys Come Inside AND... You might need to go to a longer valve if the springs you use call for something like 1.900 installed height, since stock can only go to 1.800.
Re: Solid Roller Guys Come Inside I'd give Geoff @ Thunder and/or Allan Futral a call. They know how to set up valvetrains for SR. My 3/8" pushrods did require some significant opening of the heads, and the springs etc are definitely on the beefy side. I've got the complete build sheets with all the clearances / measurements on my motor, but I don't know how much Geoff wants made public. 
Spring heights & pressures, all that stuff. They're not 1.9" tho.
-Andrew (lovin' the solid roller
)
Spring heights & pressures, all that stuff. They're not 1.9" tho. -Andrew (lovin' the solid roller
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Re: Solid Roller Guys Come Inside I dont know what all is required and I do agree with the suggestion to call Geoff @ thunder racing.
As for the pushrod hole opening, that can be done with a drill and a drill bit in about 10 minutes. "machining" is kinda a scary sounding term for it. I have pics of Visceral "machining" his heads....we called it molesting the heads at the time, but machining sounds better I suppose.
As for the pushrod hole opening, that can be done with a drill and a drill bit in about 10 minutes. "machining" is kinda a scary sounding term for it.
I have pics of Visceral "machining" his heads....we called it molesting the heads at the time, but machining sounds better I suppose. LS1 Tech Stories
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Re: Solid Roller Guys Come Inside
As for the pushrod hole opening, that can be done with a drill and a drill bit in about 10 minutes.
You just use a handdrill or a drill press? How did you make sure that you drilled straight and didn't F it up? 
Re: Solid Roller Guys Come Inside
How oftem do you have to adjust the valves on a solid?
I'm really impressed with the drivability of Cammin Beasst's Futral setup.
I'm really impressed with the drivability of Cammin Beasst's Futral setup.
As for adjusting the valves, it depends on how crazy you get with the cam. Ill be checking mine every oil change to be on the safe side.
As for specifics on solid rollers, ya need a camshaft, solid lifters, larger springs, machining for the springs, larger pushrods, machining ( molesting) of the heads for pushrods, adjustable rockers. That should about cover it. I would definately use someone who has experience in solid roller motors if you are going to go this route. Im damn glad I did
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Re: Solid Roller Guys Come Inside
As for the pushrod hole opening, that can be done with a drill and a drill bit in about 10 minutes.
You just use a handdrill or a drill press? How did you make sure that you drilled straight and didn't F it up? CamminBeast, how high is the lift on your cam? I heard that some of the high lift cars were having oil pressure issues since the lifters would come up out of the bores too much and that'd cause the oil pressure to releive itself. Probably not a concern on a lot of setups.
Re: Solid Roller Guys Come Inside Don't forget valve cover spacers or aftermarket valve covers - which by the way are expensive.
There is nothing budget about solid roller set-up's for these motor's. Plan on spending 2,000 to 3,000 on the conversion. I just researched all this myself and decided to stay hydralic and go big cube instead.
There is nothing budget about solid roller set-up's for these motor's. Plan on spending 2,000 to 3,000 on the conversion. I just researched all this myself and decided to stay hydralic and go big cube instead.
Re: Solid Roller Guys Come Inside Hey Jon,
I know you asked Beast, but I thought I'd chime in. My cam has .65" lift on both I&E, and at hot idle (850 RPM), I see about 25-30 PSI. But as soon as it hits any revs at all, the pressure goes to 40+. No problems here. And AFAIK my lifter bores were not sleeved.
-Andrew
I know you asked Beast, but I thought I'd chime in. My cam has .65" lift on both I&E, and at hot idle (850 RPM), I see about 25-30 PSI. But as soon as it hits any revs at all, the pressure goes to 40+. No problems here. And AFAIK my lifter bores were not sleeved.
-Andrew
Re: Solid Roller Guys Come Inside
As for the pushrod hole opening, that can be done with a drill and a drill bit in about 10 minutes.
You just use a handdrill or a drill press? How did you make sure that you drilled straight and didn't F it up? 
Re: Solid Roller Guys Come Inside
As for the pushrod hole opening, that can be done with a drill and a drill bit in about 10 minutes.
You just use a handdrill or a drill press? How did you make sure that you drilled straight and didn't F it up? jmX: "You are calling him now? Its 1 am. It has to be 3 or 4 am in Canada" ;-)
chris: "He's not answering. Where's the drill? I need like a 7/16th bit."
those days sucked. That was when MTI had the only solid roller around. If I was to do a solid roller setup again, I'd hand the car to a vendor and say "When it runs like it should, give it back to me." and there are several vendors these days like Thunder, Futral, etc. that are GREAT at doing that and taking good care of you. Im gonna see how much I love my 388 all bore, and then if Im still gainfully employed a year later, send the car to one of those folks for a stroker rotating assembly or a solid setup.
chris
Re: Solid Roller Guys Come Inside btw... You mention on a stock shortblock...
You will have to flycut the pistons in the block in order to have p/v clearance for an solic cam worth putting in the car. People have done this, but it sure is nicer to have a bottom end with valve reliefs in the pistons.
chris
You will have to flycut the pistons in the block in order to have p/v clearance for an solic cam worth putting in the car. People have done this, but it sure is nicer to have a bottom end with valve reliefs in the pistons.
chris
Re: Solid Roller Guys Come Inside Cammin BeaSSt, is the solid roller able to be daily driveable? I wouldn't mind doing that if it could still be daily driven with no compromises
Re: Solid Roller Guys Come Inside It all depends on how radical you want to go CANNIBAL. I had mine built to have the ability to drive everyday eventhough I wont. I will admit, my solid roller is quite aggressive and it drives 1000 times better than my old heads/cam with a GM ASA cam. Just keep the valves adjusted and check the valve springs about once a year and you should be GTG.Its definately fun spinning her to 7200