2000NavyZ

iTrader: (8)

i'm looking for a good street/strip cam that will make 38x-390's rwhp with full
bolt ons and mid 4xx with heads. I dont want to have to change springs all the time. I want something with good driveability but yet a good lope at idle as well. The car is driven mainly on weekends and sees about 6000 miles a summer. any suggestions? i tried searching, i was unsucsessful. my drivetrain will handle quite a bit too!

Gh0st

iTrader: (3)

You will have to change springs every 12-20k miles regardless of what cam you get unless it is a really small cam.

El_Diablo

iTrader: (9)

1>Are you wanting to put heads on it or keep it a cam only car. I ask because you should really match your combo before you get your cam or the heads.
2>If you only drive the car 6000 miles a year I wouldn't be too worried about changing springs unless you drive the hell out of it. Once every couple of years if you keep it that long.
3>Driveability is all in a good tune! My car lopes like hell but my mom could drive it to the grocery store if she wanted.

2000NavyZ

iTrader: (8)

I'm considering doing heads maybe in the next two years. I would like to run cam only for a while. unless you guys thinks its more cost effective to do it all right away??? i dont want anything as big as the trex. i was just looking and im sort of leaning towards the 228/230 or 230/232. do those seem to fit my wants/needs??

JPH

iTrader: (2)

crane 224/224 .585/.585 112+4 wil make 379-387hp and similar trq. w/bolts ons and a good tune. i would assume 410+ w/heads.

SSwt00SS

iTrader: (18)

These are my mods:

SLP Lid
SLP Bellow
FAST 90/90 (ported by Tony Mamo, and more by me)
Patriot Stage II Ls6 "Style" heads (2.02"int/1.57"ext, 59cc)
Comp Cams 224/224 .581/.581 @112lsa
Ls2 Timing Chain
Ls6 Oil Pump (ported and shimmed)
XS LT's w/TSP TD's w/SLP LM resonators
HP Tune (RPM in Lewisville, TX)

Hurst Competition Plus Shifter (6spd)
Spohn STB
Spohn LCA's
Spohn PH Rod

These are my numbers: 444rwhp/395rwtq (not retuned for the TD's)...

Here is the Dyno Sheet:

matthewjernigan

iTrader: (4)

wow those are awesome numbers! just goes to show you the "smaller" cams are still kicking *** with a good set of heads to boot

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

I think it has to do with cams that dont have radical lobes, thats what saves springs. Duration 228 or less and less then .590 lift also will extend spring life.

Ryan02SS

iTrader: (3)

There is no magic number as to when a valvespring will need replaced. Those that say you have to replace them every 10-20K miles are either misinformed or are too lazy to actually check their spring pressure to see if it needs to be changed. If spring pressure is not checked or monitored then I guess I see calling for replacing them every 10K miles. I recently checked my Patriot duals that have been on the car since 2003 and are close to 20K miles, many of them at higher rpms. They had only dropped a few psi over their after break in pressures.

I did my boat engine the other day also. 136 hrs at extended high rpms WOT runs and the valvesprings are shimmed to close to .060" coil bind making it even harder on them. They had only lost 2psi over the after break in specs.

Lobe design plays a major role in how long it should last. Go for a 224 or 228 on a Comp XE lobe and you should get alot of miles with a good silicon dual spring.

brad8266

iTrader: (23)

I have a 232/236 .585 112LSA cam with a nice set of heads and a set of dual springs. The springs have well over 10K on them and they still have another 10K left in them at least, my cam isnt hard on them. A lot of spring life has to do with the ramp rate of the cam lobe and the driving style. XE lobes are going to be a good bit less wearing on the springs compared to the LSK lobes due to the fast ramp in the LSK's.

My car makes 452HP/415TQ with great low end power 385TQ @ 3500 RPM.

Spec out a good combo and you can have great peak numbers and plenty of low end TQ to cruise around town in.

GregWS6&z28

iTrader: (8)

i would say the 228R would be pretty good